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Cold Start
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sat May 20, 2006 7:58 am
- Location: Plattsburgh NY Area
Cold Start
It is starting to get colder up here in Northern NY and this is the first cold weather I've experienced with my cub. All summer long the Cub started right up and ran great. Now that it's colder out I'm having a lot of difficulty starting the tractor. I'm afaraid when it gets cold cold I won't be able to get it started when I need it to plow, It also is not runnig as well as it did when it was warmer out even after it warms up. It seems to have less power and cycles a little like the governor is hunting. Anyone have any idea where to start to improve the starting and running of the cub?
"May the current be with you and the wind at your back"
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 48463
- Tractors Owned: 1956 FAST HITCH CUB
MODEL 10 CUB TRAILER
2 1950 Demonstrators - Location: MICHIGAN, OTISVILLE
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- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
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Everything the others suggested. Full tune up. Check the condition of the points, ignition timing, distributor mechanical advance. If this doesn't help then. --
You can improve cold start performance by retarding the timing a bit. The ignition is supposed to fire the spark plug at TDC. You can improve cold start performance by retarding the timing a bit, setting the ignition timing to fire at 1/2 a degree after TDC at cranking speed.
Eugene
You can improve cold start performance by retarding the timing a bit. The ignition is supposed to fire the spark plug at TDC. You can improve cold start performance by retarding the timing a bit, setting the ignition timing to fire at 1/2 a degree after TDC at cranking speed.
Eugene
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Even though my Cub is in the garage I bought a magnetic heater at TSC that I stick to the oil pan. Seems to help. Condensation in the gas tank, carburator bowl, float also may be a problem. I also have to make sure one of the children hasn't moved the TC lever from where it was on shut down since the hydraulics really load the engine when it's cold. And as many have said before, make sure the anti-freeze is up to snuff and pre-mixed before it's put in the radiator if it's low.
Hope this helps.
Peter
Hope this helps.
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5888
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 2:37 pm
- Zip Code: 44645
- eBay ID: kevinb2366
- Tractors Owned: 47 Cub 48 Cub 50 H
- Location: Marshallville Ohio
IF WE ALL WERE RICH WE WOULD HAVE HEATED BARNS.MINE GETS A LITTLE CRANKIE IN THE COLD.CHOKE IT AND LET'EM WARM UP.MIGHT WANT TO KEEP A TRICKLE CHARGER ON HER.KETCHAM
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!
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- 10+ Years
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- Location: Plattsburgh NY Area
A local mechanic told me these tractors can require a point adjustment from cold to warm weather, they may close some in cold weather. I think a full tune up is in order first. What is the best way to determine when the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at TDC to remove the distributor as suggested on other post for replacing points. Would this be when the pointer is at TDC mark and the rotor is in the #1 firing position?
Are there any block heaters other than the magnetic type that are available for a cub?
I'm getting prepared for the next best thing to a heated garage and making room in my unheated garage to get the cub indoors. Probably build a shed next year.
Are there any block heaters other than the magnetic type that are available for a cub?
I'm getting prepared for the next best thing to a heated garage and making room in my unheated garage to get the cub indoors. Probably build a shed next year.
"May the current be with you and the wind at your back"
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- 10+ Years
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- Team Cub Mentor
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- Location: Mo. Linn
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5888
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 2:37 pm
- Zip Code: 44645
- eBay ID: kevinb2366
- Tractors Owned: 47 Cub 48 Cub 50 H
- Location: Marshallville Ohio
HAD TO GET ALL 3 THREE GOING THIS MORNING IN THE 20S.I KEEP A HOT [CHARGED] 6 VOLT READY.HAD TO JUMP ALL THREE.6 VOLT SYSTEM DOES NOT SPIN FAST ENOUGH TO FIRE THEM UP.2 CUBS IN A POLE BARN THE H UNDER A OVER HANG.SHOULD HAVE PUT THEM OUT IN THE SUN TO WARM UP.WAS IN THE 20S [MID]BUT REAL NICE OUT NOW.FALL PARTY TONIGHT,BETTER GET GOIN.KETCHAM
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!
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- 10+ Years
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
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- 10+ Years
My cubs crank slow, but generally start up well enough in the cold.....
The A usually needs a jump, as I never do seem to quite get the choke right on that one (it floods mighty easy)........and if I do use the crank, I'll crank myself into an asthma attack.....
My POS Cub Cadet/MTD thingamabob gets ice in the carb at temps below 40, however, and that is a source of vexation, to say the least.......
One can almost understand getting ice in a metal carb--the evaporative cooling of gasoline is substantial, and sometimes, lets face it, there's just too much water in the air....but a white plastic POS like that??
The A usually needs a jump, as I never do seem to quite get the choke right on that one (it floods mighty easy)........and if I do use the crank, I'll crank myself into an asthma attack.....
My POS Cub Cadet/MTD thingamabob gets ice in the carb at temps below 40, however, and that is a source of vexation, to say the least.......
One can almost understand getting ice in a metal carb--the evaporative cooling of gasoline is substantial, and sometimes, lets face it, there's just too much water in the air....but a white plastic POS like that??
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