No spark

[jreucha]

I totally rebuilt it, new everything, I think its just too pitted where the gasket attaches. I guess I can try to light sand it.

[Don McCombs]

Which gasket? Where did you get your carb kit? Did you adjust the float after the rebuild?

[jreucha]

I think I got it from Stiener or Tm tractor. I have adjusted the float I'm going to check that next. the gasket between the top plate and bottom.

[Don McCombs]

The fuel does not rise in the carburetor to the level of the bowl gasket, unless the float leaks and is full of fuel, thereby not floating. You can check for leaks by removing the float, submerge it in warm water and look for bubbles escaping. If it leaks, it will need to be replaced.
It may look like the gasket is leaking, but may be actually coming from higher up. Turn the fuel off at the strainer and dry the carb thoroughly. Open the valve and check for leaking at the strainer and both ends of the fuel line.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you got it to run.
I didn't say in my other post, when the Battery Ignition unit is assembled right, the wire connection on the side of it should point straight to the right. Then the cap is turned the right way. The cap only fits on the unit one way.
Below are pics from TM Tractor Parts.
Pic 1 shows the cap should turned to this position, the number 1 spark plug wire post is the upper right post.
Pic 2 shows the position of the wire connection on the side of the unit. Loosen the distributor clamp bolts and turn the distributor to this position, if needed, then install the unit on the engine, when the engine is at number 1 cylinder TDC. You can remove the unit drive shaft and turn it so it fits in the drive slot, with the rotor pointing to the number 1 cylinder post on the cap.

The manual says remove the plugs on the unit, and install grease fittings and grease the unit, if it hasn't been greased lately.
The grease fittings are bigger threads than others on the Cub. If you don't have any, you can buy 1 fitting, and put it in one hole at a time to grease it. They have said on here to remove the fittings and put the plugs in when done greasing it, so it isn't over greased.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, telling about greasing the unit.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... e%2041.jpg

[jreucha]

Thank you for that bit of info my unit is not even close to being oriented that way, my wire on the side is dead top. I might have to re-orient that, but I had it running. drove it around a bit then parked her back in the barn, started reassembling the top, and now it don't start at all.

I really did nothing to disturb the unit or anything else not sure what's going on at this point I still have spark and it's sparking at the correct time, just won't start. lots of gas dumping from the carb out the choke part. I totally rebuilt the carb with all new parts, checked the float that's good, did a submerge test all good there, checked the correct clearance. baffeled at this point, cause the rebuilt was before I had her running for a short time.

[Bob McCarty]

The rebuild kit likely had a viton tipped needle in it. If your old one was the oem steel needle, I'd suggest replacing the viton with the original needle and cage. My experience with the viton needles is that one of 3 things happens, they work fine, they stick, or they leak. Also, double check the order of the plug cables from the cap to the plugs. It's real easy to get them in the wrong order.

[Glen]

They have said on here that it is normal for the Cub carburetor to drip gas out the air intake area, onto the ground, when you try to start the engine, and it won't run.
The gas going up to the manifold runs back down, and out the drip hole on the bottom of the carb, onto the ground. The dripping may be for a minute or two after trying to start the engine.
If the carb drips when you aren't trying to start the engine, then the carb has a problem.