No spark

[jreucha]

Hello all, recently purchased a 53 cub, with battery ignition, it does not run, turns over fine.
I replaced the coil(6v) new points gapped .020 new condenser new dist cap new plugs new wires
got 6v from bat to starter, got 6v from starter to coil and +-6v to top if dist from coil.

what I noticed is when I pulled the ignition unit off to assess when engine is DTC, governor does not line up at 2/8 its morelike 11/4 I think I can just align the rotor to #1 and adjust the shaft to align I tried that and still nothing. any thoughts? does the governor need to be at 2/8 for either battery ignition or mag?

thanks.

[staninlowerAL]

Visually check or otherwise make sure that the points are sparking every time they open and close as the engine cranks over with the switch on. If not, find and correct the cause. The points must spark each time the dist shaft rotates for the the engine to start.

[Glen]

Hi,
They have said on here that the governor gear slot that drives the battery ignition unit doesn't have to be aligned to the 2 and 8 o clock positions. It does have to be aligned correctly for a magneto.
Be sure the engine is at number 1 cylinder TDC.
You can put the battery ignition drive shaft in the unit so it will fit in the drive slot.
Turn the rotor so it points to the number 1 spark plug wire position on the cap, as you put the unit on the engine, and it should run.
Number 1 on the cap is the upper right position. The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 clockwise around the cap.
The Cub service manual says time the engine with a timing light, after you get it to run.

Something else that can cause it to not run is some new points have a clear coating on them, to prevent corrosion, I guess. Power won't go through the coating, the points need filing to remove the coating, if it is there.

[Eugene]

Something else that can cause it to not run is some new points have a clear coating on them, to prevent corrosion, I guess. Power won't go through the coating, the points need filing to remove the coating, if it is there.

This is a test to locate the problem. Ignition points open. Ignition switch on. Flat bladed screwdriver, jump the ignition points with the screwdriver. Every time you make contact with both sides of the points and then remove the screwdriver you should have a spark from the coil tower plug wire. No spark then - below.

Another common problem with newly installed ignition points. There is an insulator where the bolt holding the points and capacitor pass through the distributor housing. Insulator faulty. Or the points and capacitor installed wrong, grounded to the distributor housing.

[inairam]

I have had issues with ignition parts from the tractor websites, especially the Points and condensors. I started to use NAPA parts


napa points ECH CS1600
napa Condenser ECH IH200
napa Rotor ECH IH300
napa Cap ECH IH350

[jreucha]

Thank you all for the helpful info, I did the screwdriver test, got spark there, new dist cap, etc, still not spart to plugs.

I replaced pretty much everything in the distr, points condensor, cap. still notta. fairly sure condensor and points are mounted correctly, not grounded out. new coil too. just odd.

stumped on this one.

[Don McCombs]

Did you do the ignition point filing as Glen suggested?

[Eugene]

I did the screwdriver test, got spark there.

Clarify, where is there in your statement? Did you get spark from the spark plug wire located in the coil tower to ground? Hold that wire about 1/4" from the engine block and reconduct the test.

[staninlowerAL]

I did the screwdriver test, got spark there.

Clarify, where is there in your statement? Did you get spark from the spark plug wire located in the coil tower to ground? Hold that wire about 1/4" from the engine block and reconduct the test.

I had a cub that would not start, checks as has been described had spark (arc) at the points but no spark at the coil tower. Changed the coil and it started on the first attempt. I see you have replaced the coil but sometimes a part is faulty even if new. JMHO Stan

[inairam]

I have had new coils DOA. Again Napa for ignition parts

napa coil 6 ECH IC7
napa coil 12 ECH IC14SB

[Barebones]

Good call on bad new parts. It'll mess with you if you rule anything out simply because it's new. Had it happen with "Ford" points made in Mexico. Especially frustrating when the pressure is on to get it done. Sorry I had to recall that experience but it became a teachable moment.

[Eugene]

We still haven't identified the problem source. Don't throw parts at an unidentified problem.

[jreucha]

a BIG thank you all, seems it was out of time, even though the dist cap had #1 plug marked it was out if alignment, originally it was set at about 11, seen some other posts where it should be around 2 oclock, and points were not set accurately. set the distributor correctly and aligned with TDC with governor and walla. it ran! but seems now I have a carb issue, rebuilt it, but I think its too far gone, leaks terribly any recommendations on a good carb? an IH carb runs $200+ seen lots on amazon, but skeptical after reading reviews.

[Gary Dotson]

These carbs. are seldom “too far gone”. Most everything about them is repairable. Leaking terribly is generally an issue with the float or float valve. If the top is warped, it can be straightened, bad threads can be repaired. Don’t give up on it just yet.

[Jeff Silvey]

I'll second to what Gary said.