leaking head gasket

[pett3227b]

I just put the head back onto my cub. New head gasket and used the copper spray sealer. I put the coolant in and after one night there was a few drops that leaked from 2 different sides of the gap in the head and the block. Wondering if maybe I could torque a little higher or get it running and re torque the head bolts. Any Ideas? And should I go ahead and drain all the coolant and the oil to see if the oil is getting coolant into it?

[tnestell]

I had that happen once. Tried another torque wrench and found that the the first one needed to be recalibrated. Hope yours turns out that easy.

[Don McCombs]

Did you use a sealant on the head bolt threads?

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is info I wrote on your post from October 30.
I don't know if anyone said before on your posts, the head bolts need non hardening sealer on the bottom 1/2" of their threads. The bolt holes go into the engine water jacket, and coolant can run up the bolt threads, and leak out, without sealer.
I use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket.
Below is a post I wrote on with info about putting the head on the engine, my post is part way down the page.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173&p=807860

Here is more info.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, GSS-1411, showing the head bolt torque sequence.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... -01-14.jpg

I would read the engine section in the manual, if you haven't.
The manual is at the top of the page at Cub Info, then go to Rudi's Manuals.
Tighten the bolts gradually. I would tighten them to 25 ft lbs, then 35 ft lbs, then 45 ft lbs, each time following the torque sequence.

Before putting in the head bolts, remember there is a holder for the spark plug wires that goes on the 3rd head bolt from the front, on the right.
Below is a listing for it at TM Tractor Parts, with pics of it, if you don't have a holder.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gr/359fp.htm
Maybe you knew this already.

[Glen]

To put sealer on the head bolt threads, if you didn't use sealer on them, and if you have antifreeze in the cooling system, I would suggest you use a garden hose with a nozzle, and wash down each head bolt hole, after you take the bolt out, to wash the antifreeze off the threads, after draining the coolant.
Antifreeze leaves a sticky film on metal, the sealer should have bare metal to stick to.
Leave the drain plug out from under the radiator when washing the threads.
After washing them, you could use compressed air down each hole to dry the threads some.
Wear your safety goggles when using the water and air.

Wash and dry the bolts too, if you use the same bolts again.
Don't remove the head, since you used the copper spray on the gasket, just torque the bolts again, using the gradual torque method, and the torque sequence in the service manual. Maybe some will disagree.

[ricky racer]

Did you use a sealant on the head bolt threads?

If not, then you need to drain the coolant and seal the head bolts.

[Gary Dotson]

It’s no unusual to get a few drops of leakage before the engine is warmed up the first time. That’s usually corrected when the engine is warmed up and the head re-torqued. If the leak persists, then it’s time to find the problem.

[pett3227b]

I put the same copper spray that goes onto the head gasket onto the threads of every head bolt. I also torqued them starting at 25 foot pounds then 35 and finally at 45. I now have drained the coolant and am considering putting it back and starting the motor and letting it warm up and re torque each bolt.

[Glen]

Hi,
They have said on here that the copper spray for the head gasket won't work for the head bolt threads, and the coolant will probably leak.
You could try using the Cub more like it is if you want to, I don't know if it will stop leaking or not.
Below is a picture of the sealer, if you want to buy it, and put it on the bolts. There is a pic of it in my link above, with info about using it.
The retorquing the head bolts is done after the engine has warmed up fully, and then cooled off completely, like from sitting over night. The engine should be cold, as far as I know.
IH said in the 1965 Cub operator's manual to retorque the head bolts after the 1st 50 hours of use, when the tractor is new. I would think that should be done when the head has been off an engine.
You could retorque it after 1 or 2 times heating and cooling, and then after 50 hours also, if you want.