Crack on Engine Mount of 1955 Cub

[Jim Becker]

From your latest picture here and the one in your o-ring thread, I can see that you already have the engine braces on both sides. I suggest you just forget about the cracks and get on with other things. The only other suggestion I would make is if it needs major engine work now or in the future, get a different block. No point dumping a bunch of money into that block.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It's not your engine block that's cracked, it's the lower radiator housing/steering box piece that is cracked. I recently purchased a used one from a wrecker in TX to replace the one on my cub that was badly rusted through and was leaking coolant. It took a day to replace, but was not a difficult job at all.

[Barnyard]

It's not your engine block that's cracked, it's the lower radiator housing/steering box piece that is cracked. I recently purchased a used one from a wrecker in TX to replace the one on my cub that was badly rusted through and was leaking coolant. It took a day to replace, but was not a difficult job at all.

Both the engine motor mounts on the block have been welded too. I figure it is at best a parade tractor with its working days over. I will try to get bolster welded, but I am reluctant to put the time and money into installing a good bolster when the engine mounts are another weak point. Now if the welding does not work, I may have to in order to salvage the tractor.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

While looking at my cub to try and figure out a way to reinforce the area (my lower steering/upper axle pivot was broken), I saw a perfect spot to put a brace. Between the two bolts on each side that bolt the motor to the "bolster" and the two bolts (one on either side) that hold the front draw bar. Apologies if I'm using incorrect terminology. The two large bolts that tighten the square shaft at the lower steering/upper axle pivot. A simple piece of 3/8" thick steel bolted between those two parts, vertically, from the block down to the steering pivot, would lessen the stress on both the engine block and on the steering pivot.

Confused yet? I know what the parts do, I just am not familiar with all of your terminology.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

While looking at my cub to try and figure out a way to reinforce the area (my lower steering/upper axle pivot was broken), I saw a perfect spot to put a brace. Between the two bolts on each side that bolt the motor to the "bolster" and the two bolts (one on either side) that hold the front draw bar. Apologies if I'm using incorrect terminology. The two large bolts that tighten the square shaft at the lower steering/upper axle pivot. A simple piece of 3/8" thick steel bolted between those two parts, vertically, from the block down to the axle pivot, would lessen the stress on both the engine block and on the axle pivot.

Confused yet? I know what the parts do, I just am not familiar with all of your terminology.

[bookman51]

From your latest picture here and the one in your o-ring thread, I can see that you already have the engine braces on both sides. I suggest you just forget about the cracks and get on with other things. The only other suggestion I would make is if it needs major engine work now or in the future, get a different block. No point dumping a bunch of money into that block.

Jim, I saw your message after I went ahead with some things today. I checked with the welder today, and he said best to take the steering bolster off to weld it. He also said it would cost a couple hundred dollars to weld it. I checked with JP Tractor and they had one available for $300, including shipping---and boiled and no cracks. So went ahead and got it since I would have to dissassembly the tractor anyway. I figured I could not sell the tractor (except at a deep discount) with that crack. I do have a front blade on it but I have only used the blade a couple times over 20 years and for light duty. However, I think that blade is an invitation for more problems on the frontend. So, I probably will take the blade off and sell it. And, if I sell the tractor after fixing the bolster, I will point out the welds on the engine block and recommend it just be used as a parade tractor. I plan to fix the hydraulic o-ring problem as soon as I get the o-rings but I will wait into the fall or winter to replace the bolster. The next challenge is cribbing up under the engine so I can take the frontend off. My wife's nephew is a houesmover and I might be able to borrow some 4x4 cribbing from him. I have before. And I have a cherry picker. Of course, I may find out other things I did not know and other problems as I open things up. Old tractors do not talk, but if they could, they would have quite a story to tell. Thanks for yor always good information.

[bookman51]

It's not your engine block that's cracked, it's the lower radiator housing/steering box piece that is cracked. I recently purchased a used one from a wrecker in TX to replace the one on my cub that was badly rusted through and was leaking coolant. It took a day to replace, but was not a difficult job at all.

You might look at my response to Jim Becker. I did go ahead and order a bolster from JPTractor. It probably will be a month or so before I get to replacing it. How did you go about cribbing up the tractor so you could take the frontend off? I do have a cherry picker to use to move around the wheels. Any idea how heavy the front end with the wheels are and how tricky to move around once they are off? Thanks

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You might look at my response to Jim Becker. I did go ahead and order a bolster from JPTractor. It probably will be a month or so before I get to replacing it. How did you go about cribbing up the tractor so you could take the frontend off? I do have a cherry picker to use to move around the wheels. Any idea how heavy the front end with the wheels are and how tricky to move around once they are off? Thanks

I've got a handful of heavy duty jack stands that I built for chassis building. They use an ACME thread.

The axle assembly is not super heavy, even with the bolster attached. After unbolting the assembly from the engine block, I was able to move it by hand away from the tractor, and then I laid it down to make disassembly easier.

Here are a couple pics.

[bookman51]

Thanks for the good information.

[Don McCombs]

With the steering shaft and steering wheel attached, you can easily wheel it around wherever you want...

[bookman51]

Great to know!!

[Jim Becker]

To change out a front bolster, I would start by doing everything I could before putting a jack under anything. In other words, start by removing the hood/tank, move on to the radiator (everything mounted on top of the bolster). Next, the steering shaft and the lower radiator elbow. Next jack it up at the front and carefully block it up under the bell housing. Put support under each side of the axle. Don't recall if it is needed/helpful to pull the pivot pin and drop the axle separately, probably yes. If so, disconnect the tie rods at the center, pull the pin and move the axle out of the way. Then unbolt the steering housing base (You may find it handier to remove the bolster at this point and separate the base afterwards.). You are then ready to remove the bolster. Reverse this to put back together.

This approach keeps things as stable as possible as long as possible. It produces very few heavy subassemblies that need to be manhandled.

[Dale Finch]

With the steering shaft and steering wheel attached, you can easily wheel it around wherever you want...

Make sure you wedge the front axle under each side of the bolster...this will keep the alignment & make re-connecting to the engine much easier!

[bookman51]

To change out a front bolster, I would start by doing everything I could before putting a jack under anything. In other words, start by removing the hood/tank, move on to the radiator (everything mounted on top of the bolster). Next, the steering shaft and the lower radiator elbow. Next jack it up at the front and carefully block it up under the bell housing. Put support under each side of the axle. Don't recall if it is needed/helpful to pull the pivot pin and drop the axle separately, probably yes. If so, disconnect the tie rods at the center, pull the pin and move the axle out of the way. Then unbolt the steering housing base (You may find it handier to remove the bolster at this point and separate the base afterwards.). You are then ready to remove the bolster. Reverse this to put back together.

This approach keeps things as stable as possible as long as possible. It produces very few heavy subassemblies that need to be manhandled.

JIm, Thanks much. Sounds like you have done this a time or two. I replaced the radiator a few years ago---so was half way there at that time. Then I had the hood/tank painted off the tractor...so had that off too. Just more fun than one person should have!! Larry

[bookman51]

With the steering shaft and steering wheel attached, you can easily wheel it around wherever you want...

Make sure you wedge the front axle under each side of the bolster...this will keep the alignment & make re-connecting to the engine much easier!

Thanks very much.

Larry