Cub Low Oil Pressure runs fine

[1cubnow]

hi all thanks for all your input!
@NJ Farmer

Switched out to the straight 30 oil and put Napa 1153 filter in, cleaned air breather and oil pressure is now significantly better when full throttle and stays pegged in center. Thanks!

One more quick question if y’all don’t mind….can fan belt be changed without disassembling the front end?

[1cubnow]

Thanks all! Not sure my reply posted but changed out oil to straight 30 cleaned air breather and replaced oil filter. Oil pressure looks good at full throttle and pegged in center of white and holding at op temp. Think this is resolved!

[NJ Farmer]

Glad to help your oil pressure issues.

The fan belt can be changed but you most likely have to remove the radiator fan shroud and slide it back towards the fan then snake the belt in and slide the shroud back in place.

I will be honest with you it would be more convenient to remove the hood and have room to work also while your in there add a couple of drops of oil for the generator bearings and clean the plugs. With the hood off it make life so much nicer to work on the Cub.

NJ Farmer

[inairam]

A 10-45 oil would also help. Most straight 30 weights I have seen are non-detergent. The cub has an oil filter so a detergent oil is appropriate.
Also per the manual, if you run single-weight oil you should be changing the oil with the season and changing oil weights.

I say if the IH engineers had access to the modern chemistry in the multi-weight oils they would be in the manuals.

[Jim Becker]

I say if the IH engineers had access to the modern chemistry in the multi-weight oils they would be in the manuals.

In the '60s, they did list multi-weights in the manuals. In the '70s, they were not in the chart and there was a note: "NOTE: Do not substitute SAE-10W-30 or 10W-40."

[inairam]

I say if the IH engineers had access to the modern chemistry in the multi-weight oils they would be in the manuals.

In the '60s, they did list multi-weights in the manuals. In the '70s, they were not in the chart and there was a note: "NOTE: Do not substitute SAE-10W-30 or 10W-40."

Really? Was this in the cub shop / service manual?

Still, the oils from the 60s and 70s are not like those available today.

[Jim Becker]

Operator's manuals look in the PDF manuals for the 1965 and 1975 versions.

[inairam]

Jim,

Your encyclopedic understanding of the manuals and change history always amazes me

I found this video about using synthetic oil ( Mobil 1) in a freshly rebuilt WW2 Jeep engine https://youtu.be/UYnsJlYk_d4. I found it interesting being a 4-cylinder and of a similar design period as the C-60

Basically, this person's point is the Synthetic oil will be great all over the rebuilt engine except for the new "old style" rings which need some break-in to properly seat. Mobil 1 would greatly extend the break-in period. He does believe in the multi-weight tech in the modern oils just not the synthetic part for this application in a newly rebuilt older designed engine. He did not explore the idea of using nonsynthetic for a period and switching to synthetic.

I use multi-weight but not synthetic simply on cost issues.

[Jim Becker]

That video is excellent. The guy clearly understands what he is talking about. He did leave the question open about using conventional oil for break-in then switching to synthetic as he did simply staying with synthetic for the long run. He pointed them out as legitimate questions.

Synthetic oils are clearly superior to conventional oils. But that does not guarantee that a particular application will benefit from switching to them. I could go into some details on the differences and why they do or don't matter. The bottom line for me is to use synthetics in the modern engines that were designed for it and use conventional in older things that were built to the limitations of the old oil.

Back to where we started on the use of multi-weight, I have never seen any documentation on why IH added then removed that option. I have a couple guesses, but they are exactly that. If my guesses are correct, the concerns of the time are largely irrelevant today. Yes, I am using 10W30 in my Cubs.

[Glen]

Hi,
I sent you a PM.

[Dusty B]

Have a '59 that runs low oi; pressure - 30W - uses water! pulls a 59" mower like a champ in 2nd gear! No way am I going to touch it! Can add water easier and cheaper than to throw 2 grand into an engine rebuild!! When it dies I[ll think about it! LOL!!