Sluggish Governor

[k hutchins]

Hey All
Wonder if anyone else has had this problem, and if so, what was done to correct it?

My mowing tractor is a '48 Cub with a Woods 59. I mow 5 acres. It's mostly flat, and l mow in 2nd gear at full throttle.
My governor is really slow in kicking in at times. Say after l do my uturn at the end of a swath, l can hear the rpms drop slightly, but after l straighten out, it might take 50-75' before the governor slowly brings the rpms back up. I have found that l can manually make it kick in by running the throttle lever back, then running it forward to full again.
It's not just when l'm mowing either. When l first start the tractor, l'll let it idle for a few minutes, then put it in gear and move the throttle up to half or more to pull out of the shed and even though l've manually throttled up, it's slow to react.

Issue #2. I have also noticed lately that the choke on my IH carb, just from vibration, will work itself about 1/4 closed. If l remember correctly there is a "spring washer" on the back side to keep the ckoke in position after it's turned on or off. What would be my best bet for tightening that so it doesn't vibrate partially closed?

Any and all responses are welcome, and l appreciate the information
Thanks
Hutch

[Glen]

Hi,
There is a place where the linkage commonly wears, then the governor can work slower than it should.
Below is a picture, the cast part wears in the hole for the rod, the key and or keyway can wear too.
The key can be replaced with a new one if needed.
People on here have put in a small shim to tighten it, if needed.
It is just to the left of the governor.
With the engine off, reach in from the left side of the Cub, and hold the cast part, and see if the rod turns in it. It should have no forward and back play. Use a good light to see it.
The rod and key are party out of the cast part in the pic, the key goes fully in the cast part.

For your question 2, there is a spring that makes friction for the choke opening and closing, it is at the bottom of the choke lever in the 2nd picture below.
Part of it fits in the rectangular hole in the 3rd pic, to lock it in so it doesn't fall out.
Sometimes the spring wears where it contacts the choke arm, or the spring can get bent down, then there isn't enough friction, and the choke arm moves too easily.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual, the spring is number 15 in the pic.
You have to remove the choke plate and shaft to replace the spring.
The spring comes in some of the carburetor rebuild kits I have seen.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg

The carb pics below are from TM Tractor Parts.

[Don McCombs]

You could try putting a shim under the flat spring. I’ve never tried it, but who knows?

[Cubfriend]

Sometimes the choke lever gets installed at a different clocking than it should be on the shaft. The choke lever should be installed at 6:00 when the choke is open. This may help if it is clocked other than 6:00 previously. Vibration will want it to seek the 6:00 position if the spring doesn’t hold it.

[Don McCombs]

Sometimes the choke lever gets installed at a different clocking than it should be on the shaft. The choke lever should be installed at 6:00 when the choke is open. This may help if it is clocked other than 6:00 previously. Vibration will want it to seek the 6:00 position if the spring doesn’t hold it.

A quick look at Glen’s third photo illustrates what Frank is talking about.

[Eugene]

Check the carburetor choke lever. Frequently the choke lever no longer grips the choke shaft. Also check the choke shaft splines.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/522fp.htm

[cdahl383]

I had an issue with my choke where the clamp that goes on the spline of the choke plate shaft was coming loose. I just rotated the clamp around to a different spot and tightened it down really well and it's been fine since then.

[Cubfriend]

Sometimes you can open up the slot where the screw goes through the choke lever to clamp. If it’s metal to metal remove the screw. Run a hacksaw blade through the slot to open the gap. Then replace and retighten the screw. Be careful, as you could possibly crack the lever.