1953 cub led me here

[Ray Bud]

Started on a redo of a 1953 Farmall cub. Motor seems to be ok other than what seems to be the norm of a cracked head. Someone along the line attempted to weld the crack with little success. After I finish the motor I will be trying to free the shifter and free up the transmission. Looking for good advice for the right approach.

Ray Bud

[staninlowerAL]

Welcome to the forum. There's some good information in the HOW TO subforum, divided by topic. You might find some info there. One more post and you can access/download information from the manuals listed at the Quick links tab at the top left corner of this page. Scroll down to pdf manuals and select the folder that interests you. Stan

[Bob McCarty]

Welcome to the forum. Let us know if we can be of any help.

[Gary Dotson]

Unbolt your shifter cover and see what it looks like inside the trans. And welcome to the forum.

[Ray Bud]

Thanks for the response. I drained the water and little bit of oil out and replaced it with atf. I’m working my way back to shifter cover in hopes that the atf will help with freeing things up.

[Barnyard]

Thanks for the response. I drained the water and little bit of oil out and replaced it with atf. I’m working my way back to shifter cover in hopes that the atf will help with freeing things up.

Make sure your shift forks are lined up and not broke.

[outdoors4evr]

Thanks for the response. I drained the water and little bit of oil out and replaced it with atf. I’m working my way back to shifter cover in hopes that the atf will help with freeing things up.

ATF is good for helping to free up rusted parts, but before putting this into service, replace the trans oil with HyTran (or an equivalent). Some use 80/90wt gear oil, though it doesn't absorb and suspend water well.

[Ray Bud]

Well I removed the shift cover and went to work . Got’er shifting like a Hurst 4 speed. I am waiting for new head and bolts etc . In my search for the torque spec on the head bolts I read in a manual,
“Just tighten, warm up and retighten”. Does anyone have a torque wrench spec for the head bolts for a 60c?

[indy61]

45 ft. lbs.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-14.jpg

[staninlowerAL]

Here's the instructions:

The head bolts go into the water jacket. Use a thread sealer like Permatex PTFE thread sealer to keep water from leaking back through the threads.
Here's a recent post on the subject: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=115062#p917012

[Glen]

Hi,
In my post that Stan put the link to above, part of what I wrote was about washing down through the head bolt holes before removing the head.
You can skip that part of the post if the head is off, but the threads in the block should be clean, and antifreeze washed off them.
I would turn all the new bolts into the bolt holes before putting the head on, and be sure they turn freely by hand. Then remove them.
The bolts have to turn easily to get accurate torque readings.

[Ray Bud]

You guys are awesome. So far so good. I put this tractor to work today and after 2 hrs of impressive performance and a new coil for the second time, she quit, “NO FIRE “ . It came with a twelve V system. I understand the basics of the wiring system . Could be getting to much voltage to the coil and over heating it or should search for a bad ground ?

Chasing a gremlin

Ray Bud

[staninlowerAL]

12v conversion usually means the coil is replaced with a 12v coil, either with an internal resistor or external ballast resistor to drop the voltage. If you have a 6v coil in the system without the ballast resistor you could be overheating the coil and eventually it will die. Symptoms of a bad coil are no fire after it gets hot but will sometimes work after it cools down. I would start with the points and make sure they are firing each time they open and close, then check the firing output at the center post of the distributor cap. If OK then check fire at the plugs. NOTE: If the high voltage side of the coil is not working you can have fire at the points and no fire at the center post of the dist cap. BTDT, took me a little while to figure it out. Replaced the coil and no further problems with running. Stan
EDIT: Check the points contact surface for any oil coating. A leaking oil seal will allow engine oil to eventually allow enough oil to get on the points and prevent them from firing as they should.

[Glen]

Hi,
If you are using 12 volt coils with built in resistors, and they keep failing, the alternator may be putting out too much voltage, making the system voltage too high.
Try using an automotive test voltmeter, connect it to the battery, and run the engine. The most voltage it should have is 14.5 volts. The voltage regulator might be bad, and putting out too much voltage.
The voltage regulator is usually inside an alternator.
A member on here that repairs lots of Cubs likes to use NAPA coils.
Be sure to buy a 12 volt coil made for 12 volts, and that doesn't need an external resistor.

[Ray Bud]

Thank for the help guys. I do remember putting my battery tester on the battery and mentioning to my friend that the charging system was hot. He went on to comment on the efficiency of a single wire GM alternator an bla bla bla.. Needless to say I will retrieve a NAPA coil with resistors tomorrow. I will post the results of my findings.

Ray Bud