Excellent steering but front wobble

[Pigvet89]

I'm new. Just purchased what I think is 1964. Casting code is K on the block and hydraulic case. Older restoration with a repro ID that would make it 1959 Federal Yellow and White Flat nose. I'm betting on casting. Good running with new wires and ignition. Next valve check and basic carb rebuild. I have mowed the pastures 2 times. The cut is perfect. But I replaced trailer tires in the front for 3 ribbed. I get a lot of wobble. Will tie rod ends fix this problem. It steers terrific. The wobble doesn't affect the mowing at all. I tried the Google Search and it doesn't seem to be solely linked to this forum? Thanks Charlie

[Dale Finch]

The tie rod ends cup the ball on the steering arms, and as those "round" balls are worn, some slop develops. This can be removed, to a certain extent, by removing the cotter key, carefully turning the large slotted cup (in the outside end if the tie rod end) in. Do not make it snug, because the ball is probably no longer round, and can break the tie rid end when you turn.

Another possibility for wobble is worn bearings in the front wheels. If you can jack up the front end to take the weight off the wheels, grab the tire and see if it feels loose on the hub.

A third possibility is the spindle not being held in place tightly. There are two styles of front spindles: earlier ones have set screws that can wear, wallow out ir break. The later ones have keyways, which are stronger, but can get worn.

[Dale Finch]

If you do a search here, you'll find several older posts that discuss front wobble. Here's just one:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72870&p=586063&hilit=Front+wheel+wobble#p586063

[staninlowerAL]

If the tie rods are worn you can probably take up some of the slop out by tightening up on the bushings. Probably have some wear on the steering gear assembly as well. If you want to go to the trouble to disassemble the steering you might be able to flip the gear to another position that has less wear. Another possibility is the bearings are worn. Try the search feature at the upper right corner of this page for more information. Now that you have 2 posts, you can access and download info from the pdf manuals folder at the upper left corner of this page. Good Luck and enjoy your Cub. JMHO Stan
EDIT: Dale types faster than I can.

[Dale Finch]

IF it turns out your wobble is from the wheel hub area, this post from a few years ago, starting on page 5, discusses the replacement of bearings, etc, on one of my cubs.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=109189&hilit=Steering&start=60

[RedFred]

If the tie rods are worn you can probably take up some of the slop out by tightening up on the bushings. Probably have some wear on the steering gear assembly as well. If you want to go to the trouble to disassemble the steering you might be able to flip the gear to another position that has less wear. Another possibility is the bearings are worn. Try the search feature at the upper right corner of this page for more information. Now that you have 2 posts, you can access and download info from the pdf manuals folder at the upper left corner of this page. Good Luck and enjoy your Cub. JMHO Stan
EDIT: Dale types faster than I can.

Like he said you can tighten the bushings. Underneath the steering box there should be a castle nut. To take some play out of it you can tighten the nut after taking the cotter pin out. Make sure not to tighten it too much because it will cause excess wear and will make it hard to steer. Do that and it might do something to take some play out if not something is worn and needs replaced.

[tnestell]

Think I would also check the toe-in.

[Gary Dotson]

Have someone work the steering wheel, back and forth, about a quarter turn while you watch the Pittman arm. If it moves up and down, you need to adjust the castle nut mentioned. It can be done without disassembly but it’s a bit tricky. I think the procedure is probably in the “how to” forum.

[Cubfriend]

If the tie rods are worn you can probably take up some of the slop out by tightening up on the bushings. Probably have some wear on the steering gear assembly as well. If you want to go to the trouble to disassemble the steering you might be able to flip the gear to another position that has less wear. Another possibility is the bearings are worn. Try the search feature at the upper right corner of this page for more information. Now that you have 2 posts, you can access and download info from the pdf manuals folder at the upper left corner of this page. Good Luck and enjoy your Cub. JMHO Stan
EDIT: Dale types faster than I can.

Like he said you can tighten the bushings. Underneath the steering box there should be a castle nut. To take some play out of it you can tighten the nut after taking the cotter pin out. Make sure not to tighten it too much because it will cause excess wear and will make it hard to steer. Do that and it might do something to take some play out if not something is worn and needs replaced.

Along with removing the cotter pin you will need to loosen the pitman arm pinch bolt so it can slide up. Don’t forget to tighten it when you are done.

[Waif]

Wiggling a wheel can give hints of where the slop is.

(Just to be different...I get a front end shudder due to a rear tire not matching it's opposing tire.)

[Pigvet89]

All excellent comments and will give it a good inspection. Initially I tried to tight the tie rod end, removing the cotter key but the slotted screw on the end wasn't moving. I left it for the time being. I did have the front end off the ground to remove the tires. Bearings and wheels are good and snug on the spindles. But the just checking the tire pressure of the 3 ribbed new tires where grossly over inflated. I lowered them to 30 lbs. I will definitely inspect per all the recommendations. Thank you. I definitely have Cub fever! When we moved here, the property came with a 1955 IH 300 utility with loader. I replaced it with a 4100 JD which I still have. The Cub replaced the 4100 for mowing pastures. I wish I had done this 10 years ago.

[Glen]

Hi,
You may need a large screwdriver to turn the adjusters at the end of the tie rods, if they are tight and don't turn.

Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual telling how to check the front wheel toe in.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-44.jpg

Below is a page from the same manual showing the front tire pressures, at the lower right of the page.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-49.jpg

Below are the rear tire pressures.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-50.jpg