farmall cub repair
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2022 2:47 pm
- Zip Code: 27051
- Tractors Owned: Kubota G5200, Kubota 2910, Kubota BX23-S (ALL DIESELS). Allis Chalmers Big 10 Gas job, 1952 Farmall F-CUB.
- Location: Walkertown, N.C.
farmall cub repair
Hi FOLKS !
Fairly New Here and to the CUB World. Have a 1952 CUB IHCn giving me a fit to get it to start. I have done everything to it as by the book before ever starting to try to start it by doing all the FLUID Chks, drains and refills. Except OIL will do when I can get it to run and warm up the oil to drain good. Fuel sediment emptied cleaned, fuel drained out of tank and it is clean. Fuel lines drained and forced air clean ly thru them, drained out carb. via bottom plug., All of the ignition is clean dry and in very good looking shape. Put new Champion spark plugs in it. Tightened all electrical connections and cleaned them off with CRC Electronic cleaner, filled gas tank with new 93 octane Non-Ethanol gas., Installed a new Battery 650 CCa 6-Volt, It spins the engine good but just want start. Governor/Throttle rod was very tight but after working on that for almost a week got it free, and working good. Still won't start.???? Ideas! Thanks- dstyers11537@gmail.com Email me....It sat for 9 years in a enclosed garage from last time it was run when it was driven into garage and parked. Is there any CUB FEST ever here in North Carolina, and any close to Winston Salem, N.C. 27105...Are there any CUB mechanics here in my area fairly close to me.Thanks a lot.....
Fairly New Here and to the CUB World. Have a 1952 CUB IHCn giving me a fit to get it to start. I have done everything to it as by the book before ever starting to try to start it by doing all the FLUID Chks, drains and refills. Except OIL will do when I can get it to run and warm up the oil to drain good. Fuel sediment emptied cleaned, fuel drained out of tank and it is clean. Fuel lines drained and forced air clean ly thru them, drained out carb. via bottom plug., All of the ignition is clean dry and in very good looking shape. Put new Champion spark plugs in it. Tightened all electrical connections and cleaned them off with CRC Electronic cleaner, filled gas tank with new 93 octane Non-Ethanol gas., Installed a new Battery 650 CCa 6-Volt, It spins the engine good but just want start. Governor/Throttle rod was very tight but after working on that for almost a week got it free, and working good. Still won't start.???? Ideas! Thanks- dstyers11537@gmail.com Email me....It sat for 9 years in a enclosed garage from last time it was run when it was driven into garage and parked. Is there any CUB FEST ever here in North Carolina, and any close to Winston Salem, N.C. 27105...Are there any CUB mechanics here in my area fairly close to me.Thanks a lot.....
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Re: farmall cub repair
If I was you, I would edit your email address out of your post up above.
We dont need to email you when we can post right here.
Does your new plugs give you any spark?
Does your engine have any compression?
Is your air cleaner full of frozen water?
Is the fuel flowing to the carburator?
We dont need to email you when we can post right here.
Does your new plugs give you any spark?
Does your engine have any compression?
Is your air cleaner full of frozen water?
Is the fuel flowing to the carburator?
1968 Cub Fast-Hitch
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Re: farmall cub repair
Prime the oil pump. IMPERATIVE AS IN MUST DO - FIRST THING.
Check for spark as Sam suggests.
Then, compression tests. The IH c60 engine sticks valves if it sits for very long.
Check for spark as Sam suggests.
Then, compression tests. The IH c60 engine sticks valves if it sits for very long.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: farmall cub repair
Eugene wrote:Prime the oil pump. IMPERATIVE AS IN MUST DO - FIRST THING.
Check for spark as Sam suggests.
Then, compression tests. The IH c60 engine sticks valves if it sits for very long.

1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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Re: farmall cub repair
Hi,
Below is a post I made about priming the engine oil pump, it is about half way down the page.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60
It is common for the ignition coil on Cubs to quit. The condenser can quit also.
The ignition points can get corroded when sitting, then power won't go through them. I would file the points and be sure power is going through them. They should be flat, shiny metal. Wipe off all filings with a clean rag.
To test the power of the spark the coil is putting out, remove the ignition wire from the center post on the distributor cap, and hold the wire by the insulation, with the metal end about 1/4" from bare metal of the engine block.
Be sure the transmission is in neutral, and that the Cub won't roll. Turn the ignition switch to on, and run the starter.
The spark should jump the 1/4" gap, and be blue or white. A yellow spark is weak, and needs improving.
The engine may not run, or run right, with a yellow spark.
Do the test in a building, or not in bright light, so you can see the spark well.
The battery should be fully charged for the spark test. Charge the battery if necessary, a new battery may need charging too.
A low output charger is better, it may take several hours to charge it.
Below is a post I made about priming the engine oil pump, it is about half way down the page.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60
It is common for the ignition coil on Cubs to quit. The condenser can quit also.
The ignition points can get corroded when sitting, then power won't go through them. I would file the points and be sure power is going through them. They should be flat, shiny metal. Wipe off all filings with a clean rag.
To test the power of the spark the coil is putting out, remove the ignition wire from the center post on the distributor cap, and hold the wire by the insulation, with the metal end about 1/4" from bare metal of the engine block.
Be sure the transmission is in neutral, and that the Cub won't roll. Turn the ignition switch to on, and run the starter.
The spark should jump the 1/4" gap, and be blue or white. A yellow spark is weak, and needs improving.
The engine may not run, or run right, with a yellow spark.
Do the test in a building, or not in bright light, so you can see the spark well.
The battery should be fully charged for the spark test. Charge the battery if necessary, a new battery may need charging too.
A low output charger is better, it may take several hours to charge it.

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Re: farmall cub repair
ricky racer wrote:Eugene wrote:Prime the oil pump. IMPERATIVE AS IN MUST DO - FIRST THING.
Check for spark as Sam suggests.
Then, compression tests. The IH c60 engine sticks valves if it sits for very long.


Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG
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- 10+ Years
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- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: farmall cub repair
CUBFESTS--Check here to determine what has been scheduled. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=114384#p911171
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG
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Re: farmall cub repair
There's usually a cubfest near Sanford, NC, I think June 9-10...the closest.
I'm in Chapel Hill and plan to attend the super LA Cubfest in Bogalusa, but haven't decided whether I will fly or drive. If I drive, you are welcome to hitch a ride, since I pass your way!
I also hope to go to the Barnyard Bash June 1-3. That's a great one and I will drive and maybe pull my 18' trailer with a Cub, if one of mine needs help. You are welcome to join me for that one, too! I have room in a Ford Expedition!
I'm not an expert by any means, but perhaps we can get together for a Mini-Fest and figure out what's wrong.
I'm in Chapel Hill and plan to attend the super LA Cubfest in Bogalusa, but haven't decided whether I will fly or drive. If I drive, you are welcome to hitch a ride, since I pass your way!
I also hope to go to the Barnyard Bash June 1-3. That's a great one and I will drive and maybe pull my 18' trailer with a Cub, if one of mine needs help. You are welcome to join me for that one, too! I have room in a Ford Expedition!
I'm not an expert by any means, but perhaps we can get together for a Mini-Fest and figure out what's wrong.
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2022 2:47 pm
- Zip Code: 27051
- Tractors Owned: Kubota G5200, Kubota 2910, Kubota BX23-S (ALL DIESELS). Allis Chalmers Big 10 Gas job, 1952 Farmall F-CUB.
- Location: Walkertown, N.C.
Re: farmall cub repair
Thanks for all comments and info. It all wa of some help and now it is running ok. In removing of the hood I quickly noticed all on the front both sides the Dog Legs or Hood extensions had screws at top(2) each side) that were stainless Steel and were no problem to remove on both sides. PROBLEM: The bottom two are Broken off flush with the Radiator Bolster. IH ones are supposed to be soft and fairly easily to remove. I think these are stainless steel too or some sort of as they are not soft and extremely hard. I punched a Good Dot impression in center of each one with the sharp punch finally., with a Brand New Left Handed Drill bit(a Irwin & a Dewalt Branded ones) and using a left handed reversing drill attempted to drill a hole threw for an easy out approach method using a new set of easy outs. Would not work, could not get even started with a drill hardly and it kept going all over the place and now I can't tell where the original place of the screw is as it got over on to the radiator area around it and it is all now really shiny metal. Never messed on other side yet. Is there still a way to remove them, or should I just paint over the messed up area and forget them. I really had rather not and fix it correctly. Thanks Silverfoxx
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2022 2:47 pm
- Zip Code: 27051
- Tractors Owned: Kubota G5200, Kubota 2910, Kubota BX23-S (ALL DIESELS). Allis Chalmers Big 10 Gas job, 1952 Farmall F-CUB.
- Location: Walkertown, N.C.
Re: farmall cub repair
Also it was not showing a charge move when switch was first on and after it was running. So I bought and installed a New IH Ammeter for it and same results. Could the wires on back of the gauge need to be reversed and fix it or what do I need to do here..Thanks Silverfoxx...
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2022 2:47 pm
- Zip Code: 27051
- Tractors Owned: Kubota G5200, Kubota 2910, Kubota BX23-S (ALL DIESELS). Allis Chalmers Big 10 Gas job, 1952 Farmall F-CUB.
- Location: Walkertown, N.C.
Re: farmall cub repair
Thanks Dale, A MINI FEST would be great one day if still possible. Been having Serious health problems and have delayed all my work on it. But I did finally get it figured out enough to get it to run for me. But only got it fixed well enough to just start and run. I want to correct the lights problems etc. and get them to working. Which is another ball game there. they were all just dangling loosely when bought. Some are completely bare wire and also I guess he haad a short somewhere and just disconnected everything that it di don't need just to start up and run for him. Then the Gauge problem I mentioned above needs addressing... What you think.
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2022 2:47 pm
- Zip Code: 27051
- Tractors Owned: Kubota G5200, Kubota 2910, Kubota BX23-S (ALL DIESELS). Allis Chalmers Big 10 Gas job, 1952 Farmall F-CUB.
- Location: Walkertown, N.C.
Re: farmall cub repair
IS there any CUB Farmall Owners that does their own work on their own Cubs near me here In Walkertown, N.C. 27051, 4245 Camp Betty Hastings Road. So we could meet up and discuss old Cubs and their Problems...Thanks Silverfoxx.....
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Re: farmall cub repair
If you have an acetylene torch you could heat the broken bolts cherry red. I'd suggest not using an ez-out. If you break one, you're in a world of hurt to remove it. The hood should have a bracket on the either side towards the front that screws into the side radiator supports. Those must be present to support the hood. The doglegs are really just cosmetic. Here is a link to a "how to" on removing the broken bolts, but is not much different that what you have done: viewtopic.php?f=147&t=44710
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we need to think differently."
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Re: farmall cub repair
I'm not sure this will help but a few years ago I had a bolt break off in a old car intake manifold. I was told to heat the bolt up red hot end then take a wax candle and melt some of it on the bolt. I was told that as it cooled the wax would be drawn down into the threads and become a lubricant. Then to weld a weld nut unto the tip of the bolt and once it cooled it would turn out easily. This worked like a charm. If your bolt is stainless or you don"t have a piece of bolt sticking out that this trick may not work but the wax may lube the threads.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4868
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- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: farmall cub repair
Silverfoxx wrote:IS there any CUB Farmall Owners that does their own work on their own Cubs near me here In Walkertown, N.C. 27051, 4245 Camp Betty Hastings Road. So we could meet up and discuss old Cubs and their Problems...Thanks Silverfoxx.....
Dale's offer for a minifest is about as good as you will find. Lots of knowledge and willing to help....... JMHO Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG
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