Prepare for Paint

[AndrewSpencer]

I am prepping my 1953 Cub for paint. It also has suffered from the while you are in there itus of adjusting the clutch once I had the hood off.

My big picture idea is to strip the tractor down a bit (like it is) then paint the tractor and the accessories. And by accessories, I mean all the parts I have removed. Then, re-install the parts and paint again. This way I can get all those hard to get corners. Is this a good plan?

I am printing a block off plate for the hydraulics (will post file for others once I have verified functionality.) Taped over intake and exhaust ports, the hydraulic pump. Anything else to cover / not paint?

I am really worried about taking this re-paint too far (who me?). Is there an easier way to deal with the scaling paint then sanding it down with 40 grit?

Somewhere I saw a picture of someone who had pulled the tires and put the tractor on cinder blocks. Is this still the best idea?

Also, how do we deal with electrical? I would like to pull the ammeter and switches for the initial paint, but holy cow that looks like a good way to break stuff. Is there an easy way to do this?

Thanks all!

Andrew

[Mht]

If the paint on any of mine had looked even close to what’s on your tractor I’d have buttoned it up and put it to work. The key to a good paint job is all about the prep. I’ve painted two cubs that I had completely disassembled, I stripped almost all paint, primed and painted. Then I reassembled and touched up paint as necessary. I used rustoleum rattle can paint and primer. Several years later I’m still pleased with the results. The paint is only original once. Unless you want to do a whole lot of prep or feel the need for a shiny parade tractor I vote for leaving it as is

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cubs ground through the castings of the tractor joining together.

I don't know if you will take the Cub apart more, but don't paint anywhere that the electrical system has to ground.
Where the castings touch each other should be bare metal.
The places below should be bare metal.

The place the generator bracket goes on the engine.
The bottom of the gen bracket.
The mounting of the gen to the bracket.
The mounting of the voltage regulator.
Where the starter touches the engine.
The bottom of the dash to the clutch housing.
The mounting of the battery box, if you are grounding the battery to the box, like it originally was.

There might be others I didn't think of.

[Gary Dotson]

Is the tractor in excellent mechanical condition? That comes before a pretty paint job. You don’t want to be tearing into a nicely painted tractor to make repairs that should have been done prior. To do a proper job, you will need to strip the electrical system, it probably needs attention, anyway.

[AndrewSpencer]

As for paint I am using the certified single stage I got from the dealer. Painted the little wagon first to get a feel for the paint, gun, respirator... then the plan is once I have the tractor painted I am going to paint the truck then the station wagon.

Thanks for the reminder not to paint the grounds.

As for mechanical condition, yes. I rebuilt the motor last winter and I just tore it apart to re-hone the pilot bearing. Also had the generator rebuilt last winter and it worked really well for about 3 min then hasn't since. I figure I will paint it then diagnose the electrical. Although, with the generator not working I hand crank it and I won a prize at the local tractor show this spring for the only person who hand crank starts their tractor!