Farmall cub wont run

[Eugene]

Do you own a multi-meter? They are easy to use and you can check for voltage/electrical problems.

[staninlowerAL]

When the conversion from 6v to 12v occurred was anything changed at the distributor? Can you post a picture of the distributor/coil area?

[Kalebtrojacek]

Make up a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end. Use it to bypass the switch and feed voltage straight into the coil.

I note that you have changed the coil and there was some confusion about correct voltage. Are you sure you have the right coil? If you have a "no resistance required" 12-volt coil combined with a ballast resistor (commonly added in conversions) you will have a weak spark.

I took the external resistor off when I put in the new 12 volt distributor coil (internally resisted) from Steiner. That might be my problem, but it ran great for a few weeks after that. I will try that thank you!

[staninlowerAL]

If you have a 12v coil with internal resistor you do not need an external resistor. As Jim Becker pointed out the external resistor further reduces the current to the points. It's possible that your new coil has failed, not unheard of for the low voltage or high voltage circuit to fail. If either circuit fails it will prevent your engine from starting. Suggest you test the coil circuits for output on both low and high output terminals. PM sent.

[Kalebtrojacek]

I cleaned out the sediment bowl filled up the tank with New Gas and added some seafoam and It started right up! With the tune-up its really sounds good. Thank you for all of the help! Ill be cultivating and hilling some sweet corn in these next few days!

[staninlowerAL]

Glad to hear that you got it resolved.

[marshall]

I have the exact same issue that I am troubleshooting right now. 1950 cub. I replaced the wires a couple years ago so I'm kind of doubtful that I've got a bad wire. I had mowed for an hour and it just died. It cranks well. I just replaced the points and condensor and cleaned out the carb main jet and see gas flowing to it well. Gas tank is full. What's the next test? Check for spark at plugs?

[Clemsonfor]

Suggest you start from the battery/ignition switch and see where you are loosing the current flow. Trace it all the way to the points to see if they are arching when they open and close. If this all is functioning correctly check the fire from the coil to ground then to the plugs. Chances are your cub is grounding out in some undiscovered manner.

What would be the best way to see if they are arching when they open and close?

I know I'm late and you probably figured out the answer to this but you can hear and see the apart when your opening and closing the points manually with like a screwdriver.

[Clemsonfor]

I have the exact same issue that I am troubleshooting right now. 1950 cub. I replaced the wires a couple years ago so I'm kind of doubtful that I've got a bad wire. I had mowed for an hour and it just died. It cranks well. I just replaced the points and condensor and cleaned out the carb main jet and see gas flowing to it well. Gas tank is full. What's the next test? Check for spark at plugs?

Yes check for spark and work back to the points seeing where you have or don't have it. Also check for power to the coil on the power wire.