Newbie

[CDKL]

Hello all! I am new here, located in North Ga. I am looking to buy my very first Cub, well very first tractor for that matter. I will be using it mostly for my garden. The one I am currently looking at has several implements with it. Specifically the moldboard plow that I have a question about, the owner says that it is bent and needs to be straightened, he sent me a pic of it where he says that its bent, every other one I see on the innerweb is bent in the same place, so I'm thinking its suppose to be that way. He says that it will only plow 4-6" in depth but if it were straightened it would plow 8-10" deep. From the looks of the tractor it does not have the plow depth control on it. I also would like to know how hard it would be to find the depth control unit for the plow? I do have pics if those would be of help. Thanks in advance for any advise!


Chris.

[Jim Becker]

I have seen a Cub plow where somebody fixed a "bent" beam and ruined it. Pictures would help. I would probably take the guy's word for it that it is bent and buy it accordingly. Figure out after getting it home whether it is really bent. Depth control levers are often missing. Typically a lever by itself is worth more than a plow without the lever. If a "plow" has a bent beam and no depth control, I would say the value is that of the wear parts on the bottom. Does it have a good share or does that need replacing too?

Cub implements usually end up with loose pieces when removed from the tractor. Missing pieces are often a problem. It is a good idea to study the manuals and take them along with you when you are inspecting one to buy. Buying one that is actually mounted is the safest way.

[CDKL]

I will defiantly post some pics up shortly.

[CDKL]

[Don McCombs]

That plow is the way it should be. Tractor looks to be in good shape.

[CDKL]

That was my concern. Now, can the plow be of good use to me without the depth control? How hard would it be find one of those if it’s going to be a issue to use.

[JustJim]

Howdy neighbor! I'm in north GA as well.

That tractor looks good from what can be seen. Interesting screen on the air breather. Permit me to offer a suggestion. If you are serious about it, when you go to look it over, take a good flashlight with you, and a 5\8-11 bolt.

I had no knowledge of the Cub when I bought my two. I soon learned that the 1949 - the one I really had interest in - had suffered CONSIDERABLE structural damage. I eventually had to buy another Cub for parts as both final drives and the lower steering housing had been badly broken and welded.

Use that flashlight, crawl under, and give close inspection to the final drives, transmission case, and lower steering housing where the front axle bolts. Look also at the mounting "ears" of the engine. Use that bolt and your flashlight to check the implement bolt holes on the final drives. So much better to spot damage before you whip your wallet out!

The Cub is a lot of fun, pretty simple to work on, and I bet you'll enjoy it. One last thought - try to decide what you really need to do with your tractor. There's a lot the Cub can do, but it may not do exactly what you have a need for.

Keep us up to date on your Cub adventures!

[Pap]

Welcome to the forum Chris.

Enjoy Your Ride.

[JustJim]

Here's a look at the kind of damage you may find later if you don't know to look sooner!

IMG_1532 by Jim QRB, on Flickr

IMG_1544 by Jim QRB, on Flickr

IMG_1545 by Jim QRB, on Flickr

[Drfting1]

Welcome!
Noticed on picture, missing bolts on rear wheel weight... Careful if you transport it, remember barnyard mentioning about a weight falling off

[CDKL]

Here are a few more pics if it helps.

[CDKL]

[Glen]

Hi,
Welcome to the website.

That was my concern. Now, can the plow be of good use to me without the depth control?

They have said on here that you have to have the depth control lever, to the right of the seat, to use the plow.
The plow won't work right without the lever.
The lever sets the height of the front of the plow, so it plows to the depth you choose.

The Cub 193 Plow beam is supposed to have a twist in it also.

I would stand the plow up to it's normal position, and look at it.
Check for the twist.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of a Cub 193 Plow on a Cub.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim ... ow_001.htm

Below is the Cub 193 Plow owner's manual, it has lots of info, and shows how to put the plow on the Cub.
You don't use the manual lift lever shown in the manual, to the left of the seat, if the Cub has Touch Control.
The Cub has to have the rear lift, shown on page 10 of the manual, to use the Plow, with Touch Control.
Not all the plows have the chain, on the right side of the plow beam, the older plows don't have it.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

[tldec50]

welcome to the forum,I am in north Ga also just a couple counties over.Enjoy your cub,looks great.

[Glen]

Hi,
Here are some things to look at before buying a Cub.

If the Cub has a vertical exhaust, see if the muffler or pipe has a cover on it, or ask the owner if it has been covered when sitting. Rain going in the open muffler or pipe can cause rust in the engine, and ruin it.

Check the castings for cracks, or broken places on them, like was said above.

There is a place on earlier Cubs where the engine block can crack. It is at the right front area of the block, where the front end bolts to the engine. Look closely for a crack there, it can be covered by dirt or grease.
Below is a pic of the area, a crack can happen in the corner, where the black oil is, near the cooling system hose. One bolt is not there that holds the front end on in the pic.

There are 5/8" threaded implement mounting bolt holes in places on Cubs.
You could check the threads in the implement mounting holes.
Sometimes the threads are worn, sometimes the threads are worn out and gone. Sometimes the holes are broken.
There are 2 pads on each side of the front area of the clutch housing. Each pad has 2 bolt holes.

There are 6 implement mounting bolt holes on each final drive. 2 on each final drive hold the drawbar on, it's important those holes are good to use a drawbar.

There are 2 implement mounting bolt holes at the bottom rear side of the large square hole under the steering gear. The square hole is for mounting some implements.

Cubs originally came with a cork in each implement mounting hole, I'm not sure if the 2 holes at the square hole had corks, they might not have. Some corks might still be in the Cub you look at. They might be painted over. They can look like a broken off bolt, but are not.
The corks are to keep out dirt.

If you aren't going to use the Cub with implements, it might not be important to you if all the threads in the holes are good.

Sometimes the left final drive bolts that hold it onto the transmission housing work loose, and people keep using the Cub, I guess, and the bolt holes and threads wear. Then the threads need repair.
People on here have needed to put in repair coils for the threads.
The final drive is held on with 6 bolts in a circle. 2 bolts are under the bottom of the final drive, they come loose also.
They need checking and tightening once in a while.
It's probably not impossible for the right side to have this problem, but I haven't seen it.
You could check the right side bolts too.

The wheel and rim bolts on Cubs can work loose from use, I would check those also.

There are 5 bolts in a circle that hold the 1st part in JustJim's pic above, onto the part above it.
They are the steering gear housings, and the upper one has the radiator on it.
The 5 bolts in a circle can work loose from use, and then if they aren't tightened, and the Cub is used, the threads in the casting can wear.
People on here have had to replace the castings because of the worn bolt holes.

The 2nd and 3rd pics, from TM Tractor, show the drawbar and the bolts that hold it to the final drives.
The 4th pic, from TM Tractor, shows the lower steering gear housing, and where the 5 bolts in a circle go. There is an oil seal in the shiny area, it can leak too.