Sickle bar drive end play
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Sickle bar drive end play
How much end play (thrust play) should there be. I remember reading about noise and vibration if there is to much. My plan is to mount to the tractor and make sure the pulleys are aligned to determine how many and what thickness of washers/spacers (there is a specific term that I can’t think of) should be on each end.
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1969 Farmall Cub
1952 Cub
1942 Farmall H - Location: Raymond, MS
Re: Sickle bar drive end play
If I’m not mistaken, the parts manual gives a breakdown of the number and sizes of washers needed. There are several places that need checked for vibration issues. Bearing in each end of driveshaft. Pin holes need check for wear, especially the large pin. Loose bolts, especially the mounting bolts on torque tube. I’m sure others will chime in with other areas
Thomas
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Re: Sickle bar drive end play
Hi,
I make the end play so there is very little, but the shaft turns freely.
The more end play, the more noise it makes, moving forward and back.
There should be washers at the front and rear, to help keep from wearing the ends of the tube.
If you can find washers the right thickness, you can bore out the center of them with a lathe, if needed.
If the front bracket has tapers around the bolt holes that hold it to the clutch housing, it is supposed to use the IH tapered head bolts to hold it on. They are needed because of the shaking.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the bolts.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm
The rear bracket may have 1 tapered hole.
This is the bolt for the rear bracket. The drawbar is supposed to be on the Cub too, except on the first mowers, I think.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/445fp.htm
Keep the mounting bolts tight, check them during use of the mower, if they work loose, it can wear the threads in the cast iron holes.
There should be no side to side movement of the shaft in the front and rear bushings.
The bushings can be replaced if worn.
I make the end play so there is very little, but the shaft turns freely.
The more end play, the more noise it makes, moving forward and back.
There should be washers at the front and rear, to help keep from wearing the ends of the tube.
If you can find washers the right thickness, you can bore out the center of them with a lathe, if needed.
If the front bracket has tapers around the bolt holes that hold it to the clutch housing, it is supposed to use the IH tapered head bolts to hold it on. They are needed because of the shaking.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the bolts.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm
The rear bracket may have 1 tapered hole.
This is the bolt for the rear bracket. The drawbar is supposed to be on the Cub too, except on the first mowers, I think.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/445fp.htm
Keep the mounting bolts tight, check them during use of the mower, if they work loose, it can wear the threads in the cast iron holes.
There should be no side to side movement of the shaft in the front and rear bushings.
The bushings can be replaced if worn.

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