Still learning a lot on the farmall cub. I pulled the touch control box off the tractor and started to prep for replacing seals.
I noticed lots of wear on one arm (inner one) but little to no wear on the other arms (holes and pins).
What attachments would run on this arm and cause this much wear?
With the arm removed I will likely try to repair the wear. What is the correct size hole?
Also I noticed on the other arms that the edges are pretty rough. Looks like when the part was cut/sheared the cut wasn’t clean. Not sure if this is original or if someone repaired them. I will try to get a better picture tomorrow.
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Question on touch control arms
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Question on touch control arms
1952 Farmall Cub
Cub Cadet 1512 with cadplans loader and backhoe
Cub Cadet 1711
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Cub Cadet 1512 with cadplans loader and backhoe
Cub Cadet 1711
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Re: Question on touch control arms
The arm with a lot of wear is for the Fast-Hitch helper spring. Look at the pictures in this post.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=107766#p854882
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=107766#p854882
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Re: Question on touch control arms
I have found that the fast hitch rod that goes in that hole is many times installed backwards so it wears out the hole that bad, when installed correctly the cotter pin on the rod should face out
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Re: Question on touch control arms
Since the rod is 3/4”, a 25/32” hole would seem reasonable.
Mine is worn as well, but not as much as yours.
I give all of these type connections a shot of white lithium grease several times a year, especially in the winter when I use the tractor the most for plowing snow.
Mine is worn as well, but not as much as yours.
I give all of these type connections a shot of white lithium grease several times a year, especially in the winter when I use the tractor the most for plowing snow.
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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Re: Question on touch control arms
Back when I bought my 1968, mine was worn some and there was a groove worn 1/2 way through the rod.
I welded up the rod and remachined it to .750".
Then bored out the arm and made a flanged bushing!
Mine requires a bit of grease now because the clearances are much tighter.
Cant remember for sure, but I probably made the hole in the bushing .755"
It is holding up well, getting close to 20 years since that been done!
I welded up the rod and remachined it to .750".
Then bored out the arm and made a flanged bushing!
Mine requires a bit of grease now because the clearances are much tighter.
Cant remember for sure, but I probably made the hole in the bushing .755"
It is holding up well, getting close to 20 years since that been done!
1968 Cub Fast-Hitch
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