Cub Hydraulic Disappointment

[Stanton]

Pushed snow on two other driveways yesterday with my Cub Cadet 782 and before I could finish, had busted the roll pins in the rockshaft so that the blade could not be moved up or down. Went home to get the '48 Cub. I had fitted "Walter" out with "Nellie's" blade and chains while she is still being overhauled.

Warmed "Walter" up and started out of the barn. Dropped the blade with the hydro level, made one swipe at the snow on my barn concrete pad, then the blade wouldn't return to the up position. Reversed back into the barn and tried the lever again. You could see the blade barely moving upward.

After "Nellie" gets back together, it may be time for a hydraulic pump and/or a hydraulic unit rebuild.

Thoughts?

[Don McCombs]

Stanton, have you checked the fluid level?

[Stanton]

Yes, fluid is full when arms retracted as observed through the fill plug hole.

[Jim Becker]

Next thing to check is the orifice and screen.

[lowgearfarm]

The hydraulics on my other old tractor [full disclosure: '83 Kubota B7100, 3-pt hitch] really hates the cold weather [below 20F]. Hitch will drop, but not will not lift. Have cleaned the screen, changed the fluid to lighter weight with some improvement, but not a permanent cure. Once I carefully heated the valve body with a propane torch and fixed the problem for the day. You might just wait for a warmer day to determine if ambient temperature is a contributing factor to the problem.

[Eugene]

Try warming up the hydraulic oil/system by letting the engine run for 5 or 10 minutes before putting it to work.

Or set the tractor in the 60+ degree weather this weekend for a while, then try the hydraulics.

[SamsFarm]

Might be a long shot, but, by chance might there be some moisture that got in there somehow and froze up?

I wonder how it will work on a day above freezing.

[Stanton]

Next thing to check is the orifice and screen.

Jim, are you referring to item #30 (Pressure Regulator Orifice and Screen)?

[Stanton]

Unless this Touch Control is completely different from the other one I have on "Nellie" ('47 Cub), then I don't believe it's weather related. Never had a cold weather issue on the other one before.

Even so, I'll give it a go on Sunday or Monday. It's supposed to be in the upper 50's to low 60's both days.

Thanks everyone.

[Jim Becker]

Next thing to check is the orifice and screen.

Jim, are you referring to item #30 (Pressure Regulator Orifice and Screen)?

Yes. It can shut the whole hydraulics down if it is plugged. Access is through a pipe plug in the head (14).

[ricky racer]

Unless this Touch Control is completely different from the other one I have on "Nellie" ('47 Cub), then I don't believe it's weather related. Never had a cold weather issue on the other one before.

Even so, I'll give it a go on Sunday or Monday. It's supposed to be in the upper 50's to low 60's both days.

Thanks everyone.

I agree, I've never had my TC unit work poorly in cold weather either.

[Stanton]

Next thing to check is the orifice and screen.

Jim, are you referring to item #30 (Pressure Regulator Orifice and Screen)?

Yes. It can shut the whole hydraulics down if it is plugged. Access is through a pipe plug in the head (14).

Do you think there’s enough room to remove it without taking off the hood? I’m thinking not.

[Jim Becker]

You need to get the rear support (instrument panel) out of the way. I've done it by unbolting the rear of the tank, supporting the tank from the Touch-Control unit, and unbolting the support from the bell housing. If your wiring hasn't gotten crazy stiff, you can turn the support to the right and out of the way. You have to remove the choke rod and maybe the starter rod. I don't remember what was done with the governor control rod. This avoids messing with the gas line etc.

[Stanton]

You need to get the rear support (instrument panel) out of the way. I've done it by unbolting the rear of the tank, supporting the tank from the Touch-Control unit, and unbolting the support from the bell housing. If your wiring hasn't gotten crazy stiff, you can turn the support to the right and out of the way. You have to remove the choke rod and maybe the starter rod. I don't remember what was done with the governor control rod. This avoids messing with the gas line etc.

Was able to do what you suggested above. The plug on #22 orifice screen is a 1/4”x1/4” socket instead of a Allen hex type. Will have to come up with something that fits. In the meantime, is the hydraulic fluid behind the orifice screen under pressure?

[Dale Finch]

Stanton, are you sure about that plug? there IS a large square headed plug in the head, but it is at 90 degrees to the head, in a raised "tube-like" bulge running horizontal to the head, toward the right side. The allen plug for the orifice screen is toward the lower left side of the head.