1952 Cub arrives in new home.

[Workinprogress]

So far working on this tractor I have found 5 alignment pins not completely in position. Do these pins ever move on there own or is this just examples of poorly done earlier repairs?

[Workinprogress]

Pulled the front end apart to address steer box leak. Most of the gasket was worn through but bronze bushings all seemed good.

All bearings, races and seals in Front hubs bad. One side lacked any grease and the other side appeared to be a mix of grease, rust and a little water.

Parts ordered! Everything wire brushed, degreased, primed and painted.

[Glen]

Hi,
While the steering is apart, I would carefully check the wear in the 2 bushings on the vertical shaft in the steering gear. Even a small amount of wear in them makes the steering wheel have free play, or movement to the right and left, where the wheel doesn't turn the front wheels.

I don't know if you noticed how much free play the steering wheel had when the Cub was together.

I would put the shaft in each bushing and check carefully.
The less looseness of the shaft in the bushings, the less steering wheel free play there would be.

There are also the 2 thick washers next to the small gear on the upper long shaft, they can wear, then the long shaft can move in and out slightly from the steering gear.
That makes the steering wheel have free play too.
You can put the shaft in while the steering gear is apart and check it.
Tighten the 2 bolts in the cap and see if the shaft will move in and out any.
Even a small amount causes the steering wheel to have free play, as the shaft moves in and out of the steering gear.

TM Tractor has new bushings and washers for it. Maybe you knew this already.

[Workinprogress]

Thanks Glen!

I know TM tractor well. Lots of orders already.

The steering was ok before I disassembled. Test fitting of parts seems to have very little play. I took the calipers to all the bushings and shafts.

Based on the specs in the service manual most are within spec. The upper bushing in the radiator/steering housing is just a few thousands out but the shaft seems to fit snug. Not sure a few thousands are worth a $37 bushing so I have to think about it.

Upper = 1.131 measured, 1.1285-1.1305 spec
Housing base = 1.129 measured, 1.128-1.129 spec

[Workinprogress]

Put gas tank on and took her for a ride!

Primed it and have good oil pressure but she is smoking a little. It has sat for 7 months.

Still have to straighten the hood and paint it.

[Stanton]

Coming right along. Good progress so far. Keep going...

[Pap]

You are doing good..

[Dale Finch]

Looking fine!!

[Floater]

Hello - I've been following your thread, and enjoying it very much. You're a bit ahead of me in your restoration - I'm doing a 1956 Cub I bought last October. I see you're in Underhill; although I live in Port Kent, NY now, I grew-up in Essex Jct and lived there until about 12 years ago. Maybe I'm a little homesick...

Anyway, a question - what did you do for paint? It looks pretty good from here!

Thanks,
Reg

[Workinprogress]

I have been using rustoleum tractor paint. The nice part is the spray can matches the quart paint exactly. I have been priming everything. Light sanding then coat of paint with foam brush. Light sanding second coat with foam brush. Lastly a light coat with the spray can to finish it off. Also spray can to touch up.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... -implement

Just did the static timing tonight (finished at 10 pm). Timing was off (late). Not sure if that contributed to the exhaust smoke. Will know tomorrow when I fire it up

[Workinprogress]

Been working on the hood. Took pb blaster and some heat to get the headlight shafts off the tractor. I was able to straighten out the right side but still working on the left front. Slowing working it back into shape.

I noticed the hood curves down around the exhaust hole. Is that supposed to be that way? I tried to find photos but few have the details I need. Below is a picture of what mine looks like.

[Jim Becker]

Yours is bent. There was originally no reshaping of the sheet metal around the exhaust hole. The hole itself isn't really round because of being in a curve. If you had a bird's eye view of the hole from directly above, it should look round.

[Don McCombs]

Looks like your hood may have been the victim of a previous owner running the muffler and exhaust pipe into a low-hanging tree limb. The perimeter of the hole towards the center of the hood needs to be tapped up to match the profile of the rest of the hood.

[Workinprogress]

Took a little break from straightening the hood and searched for the slight oil leak at the rear of the engine. Each time I ran the tractor I would end up with a few oils drops (less than a nickel to quarter diameter) on the garage floor. Figuring I forgot something when I replaced the rear main seal so I split the tractor. Wow second time was much quicker

Turns out little leak is coming from between crank shaft and seal. Further measurements found the end play out of spec. Thanks TST for your help. So short term I will live with this for now but suspect some engine work in the future. So I won’t worry about painting the engine for now.

I have learned a lot so far and hope to learn more as my work continues. I wish I had some of that knowledge before I purchased this tractor. It would have been helpful to get the price down or maybe even say no to the purchase of this specific tractor. Thanks for all the help.

[Glen]

Hi,
The rubber of the oil seal should be a snug fit on the crankshaft as you put the seal and retainer on, if it is too loose fitting, it may not seal good.

You could put something on the floor to catch the oil drips, you didn't say if you did.
Maybe you already put something on the floor.