Engine Work - Update

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby SamsFarm » Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:06 pm

k hutchins wrote:l've worked with wood my whole life. As stable as walnut is, we're talking about 1/32 of an inch. You can get that much variance between a dry or humid day.


Hutch


That is interesting!

While I made tons of precision stuff in the past, I never made any from wood.

But I am betting that the thickness of a piece of does not shrink or grow much as the humidity changes!

Some, but not much!

If Stanton would be so kind as to post the actual thickness, along with the temperature and % humidity, then post the same again when the humidity goes up to 90+% come summer!

Kinda like a farmallcub.com science experiment! :)

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:11 pm

Dale Finch wrote:OMG!! :big what:
You AREN'T perfect???!!! :big smile:

I thought I made a mistake once, but it turned out I was wrong.

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:17 pm

k hutchins wrote:Hey Stanton, l've worked with wood my whole life. As stable as walnut is, we're talking about 1/32 of an inch. You can get that much variance between a dry or humid day.

I imagine that as the step of the tool bottoms out on the block, it will tend to compress some, while the inner part of it will continue to drive the seal a bit deeper. I wouldn't be surprised to find the seal positioned closer to 23/32 than 22/32.

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Mht » Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:27 pm

If I’m not mistaken the new seals are a slightly different design and thickness than an original seal and I set them to a slightly shallower depth anyhow. I may have done it so the seal rode on an unworn spot on the magneto drive. I wouldn’t sweat that 1/32 of an inch

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Nelson 634 » Mon Feb 14, 2022 12:01 am

Any body here "not' make a mistake this week. I know I have its just a question of how many. Its how we learn. I learned the seal dimensions may have changed over time . I was reminded wood will swell with a change in humidity. Staunton, I don't think you realize the respect some of us newbies have toward you and your post. You didn't mislead us you gave us an opportunity to learn more about these great little tractors. I personally look forward to reading many more of your post. Please don't cut back.
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Bill E Bob » Mon Feb 14, 2022 8:01 am

Stanton! You have enough going on right now to be worrying about 1/32 of an inch, besides, you're one of the few willing to post "How To's". Please don't deny us your expertise, we all appreciate it and you.

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Slim140 » Mon Feb 14, 2022 8:14 am

Stanton wrote:
Jim Becker wrote:
Stanton wrote:Note that the IH spec book calls for a depth of 22/32" in from the face of the crankcase casting. For you math wizards out there, that's an improper fraction. That reduces down to 11/16" where I was taught math and that equals 0.6875".

There is just one little catch. The spec is 23/32.


You know, over the years, I've been wrong more than I've been right. Just a fraction off, in this case, 1/32". After each embarrassing episode (and I am very embarrassed at misreading Raymond's How to, because it clearly states 23/32" and I didn't go back to the Specifications Manual to verify), I say to myself, "That's it. I'm finished. No more posting things about showing people how to do this or what to do over there. I'll just get it wrong." So, now it's happened again.

For some of you who have attended the CubFests I've been to, this is exactly why I keep to myself and don't "present" a tutorial or give advice. Deep down, I'm afraid I'll screw it up for someone else.

Thank you, Jim, sincerely for bringing this up. I'll edit out the 22/32" portions and pictures, so no one else might get confused. I have no right to post such things like they're a guide to follow.

A man told me 30 years ago "show me someone who doesn't make a mistake and I'll show you someone who doesn't do anything". That has stuck with me, we all make mistakes, we are human after all. Great work on the gauge and thanks for taking the time to share!!!
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Clemsonfor » Mon Feb 14, 2022 9:14 pm

Stanton wrote:Appreciate everyone's opinion, experience, and advice on the connecting rod nuts. The original nuts are on, torqued with a drop of Locktite. That's finished. If I have an engine crash after start up, I'll suffer the loss and you all can say, "I told you so." But that's where I'm leaving it.

Onward and upward.

Have had a fever for the last 4 days, so felt less than myself during some of the best weather in February for Missouri. Oh, well. So, this morning, woke up with no fever and it's below freezing outside; I mean, it's cold. Better not push it. Knowing the next assembly item is to install the front cover and install the magneto seal, I decided to descend into my basement woodworking shop to make a magneto seal depth gauge/driver, according to Raymond Durban's How to, found here:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=76420

The verbal instructions were clear and I could understand them perfectly. But being a visual type of learner, I thought I would use his text and add my pictures and comment in this thread to show you how I made some sawdust this morning. Besides, I know how much you all like pictures.

Received my mag seal from Hamilton Bob's (one of our sponsors). Quite reasonably priced, via ebay. Made a rough sketch of Raymond's description with dimensions.
IMG_4794.JPG

I have a bunch of walnut, including a scrap bin, that had the size I was needing. Selected a 3/4" thick piece, drew the outline of the outside diameter on the wood and then trimmed it down on the tablesaw.
IMG_4797.JPG
IMG_4798.JPG

Had a little thickness to remove, so ran a few light passes on the jointer/planer.
IMG_4799.JPG

Then, using the oscilating belt sander, combo disc/belt sander, and finally (when things weren't going fast enough) brought out my homemade thickness planer/sander to get down to 23/32" (0.71875").
IMG_4800.JPG
IMG_4801.JPG
IMG_4802.JPG
IMG_4803.jpg

Raymond's How To next states to cut out another piece of wood slightly larger in diameter. This will act as the lip to stop the driver from going any further. I decided upon an 1/4" larger diameter, giving me an 1/8" all around. Did the measuring, finding center, and cutting. Drilled a small pilot hole all the way through both pieces and took them to the lathe to smooth them down.
IMG_4805.JPG
IMG_4806.JPG
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Found a 5/16" bolt of the proper length, drilled the hole through both and secured them together with the bolt and nut.
IMG_4814.JPG
IMG_4815.JPG

Finished with an appropriate label to remind me what in the heck this thing is in 3 years when I come across it.
IMG_4816.JPG
IMG_4817.JPG
IMG_4818.JPG

You don't need all these tools. It can be made with a jigsaw, a rasp, and a drill (or whatever is available). The Lord's blessed me with these tools over a lifetime of accumulation and it felt good to be doing something productive again.

Can you insert a magneto seal to its proper depth without a driver like this? Sure you can. I've done it. But when you're retired and have time, material, and the tools to do it, you ask yourself, "Why not?" I look forward to using it very soon.
:hattip: Hope you enjoyed it.
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Stanton » Wed Feb 16, 2022 3:38 pm

Next step in the Service Manual is to install the engine cover. Needed a gasket, but don't have one wide enough to make my own. Don't want to order, pay, and wait a week until one arrives. Here's how I did it; splice two pieces.
IMG_4819.JPG
Enough for one piece.

IMG_4820.JPG
Trace around all exposed outlines and bolt holes.

IMG_4821.JPG

IMG_4822.JPG
Where I can't draw with a pen, I use a ball peen hammer to tap out the outline.

IMG_4823.JPG
Almost got it.

IMG_4825.JPG


Wanted to create something more complex than a butt joint where the two were to meet, so cut an interlocking joint.
IMG_4826.JPG
Somewhat of an interlocking joint.


Had enough scraps to cut the other piece.
IMG_4827.JPG
Measure and cut the other piece.


Laid the first piece and held it in place with bolts. Marked the interlocking joint onto the second piece. When tapping out a gasket, I try to punch the bolt holes first, then I can use the bolts to slip down into the holes, holding the material in place while I mark or tap out the rest. When I installed the front cover, I used a dab of gasket sealer at the interlocking joint to ensure it won't leak.
IMG_4829.JPG
Traced the interlocking joint onto the second piece.


Gasket done. Time to install the pulley seal.
IMG_4833.JPG
Wood block to tap in the pulley seal.


Manual states to loosely put in the front bolts so the cover can slide around a bit. This is for when later you install the pulley, it will self center the front cover and get a good seal around the pulley. Next step was to install the magneto seal in the crankcase. Magneto seal driver was used to set the seal 23/32" deep into the crankcase per Service Manual.
IMG_4834.JPG
Front cover installed.
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby tst » Wed Feb 16, 2022 8:47 pm

just a note there are two different mag seals, the one is thinner than the other and needs to be set in further, did you compare the new one to your old one ?

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Stanton » Wed Feb 16, 2022 9:42 pm

tst wrote:just a note there are two different mag seals, the one is thinner than the other and needs to be set in further, did you compare the new one to your old one ?


Yes, new one same as old one.
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Gary Dotson » Thu Feb 17, 2022 8:26 am

Nice little interlocking joint, on the gasket, should work just fine.

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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Dale Finch » Thu Feb 17, 2022 8:31 am

SO resourceful! :hattip:
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby ricky racer » Thu Feb 17, 2022 8:35 am

Gary Dotson wrote:Nice little interlocking joint, on the gasket, should work just fine.

I agree! I would have never thought of doing that. Pretty cool!!
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Re: Engine Work - Update

Postby Gary Dotson » Thu Feb 17, 2022 8:41 am

I’ve seen gaskets, for large castings, that were 2 piece, and sometimes 3 piece. They were joined with a tab like those of a jig saw puzzle, never had one leak.


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