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Oil Leak
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 55987
Oil Leak
I am new to this forum and am looking for someone with a good understanding of cub engines. I have oil suddenly pouring out of a hole on the bottom of the engine behind the oil pan. It almost looks like their is a drain plug of some sort that came out as it is a perfect round hole in the center of the engine casting. I would love to post a picture of what I am talking about but can't seem to accomplish that.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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- 501 Club
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- Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
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Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Greenwood County SC
Re: Oil Leak
Sounds like either the rear seal or the rear of the oil pan gasket has given up. The oil pan is the easy of the 2 scenarios.
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Re: Oil Leak
iS THIS BY CHANCE A 5/16 HOLE? a bolt may have come out of the rear seal retainer housing.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- Team Cub Mentor
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- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Oil Leak
On the left end of the casting pictured below, the are two holes. I assume you are talking about the smaller of the two. Your problem is likely a leaking rear engine seal.
Photo courtesy TM Tractor Parts
Photo courtesy TM Tractor Parts
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Oil Leak
I'm just finishing up replacing my rear seal...a fairly common problem. Not too hard, but it does require splitting the tractor to access the seal.
The seals that are sold to "fit" the retainer, go in too easily, and do NOT seal. Unless you spend big bucks for the assembly (seal AND a new retainer), the best option is sending your old seal/retainer to a forum member, Tim Talleur (forum name tst). He machines the retainer for a different sized seal.
Here is his info:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=886070#p886070
The seals that are sold to "fit" the retainer, go in too easily, and do NOT seal. Unless you spend big bucks for the assembly (seal AND a new retainer), the best option is sending your old seal/retainer to a forum member, Tim Talleur (forum name tst). He machines the retainer for a different sized seal.
Here is his info:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=886070#p886070
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6170
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil Leak
Hi,
That is the clutch housing that Don posted the pic of above. It is not part of the engine.
The hole is a drain hole in case oil gets in the clutch housing.
There isn't any plug that goes in it.
There is supposed to be no oil in the clutch housing.
If oil is coming out the hole, probably an oil seal is leaking.
To replace the rear crankshaft seal, you have to split the Cub, and remove the clutch and flywheel.
The larger hole is for clutch access. There is a grease fitting there you should grease if you haven't.
The fitting is on the throwout bearing. They say on here use cheap grease, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite material in the throwout bearing. The original style bearing doesn't turn, it is a solid bearing.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual showing the clutch and the grease fitting, in the lower pic on the page.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-40.jpg
That is the clutch housing that Don posted the pic of above. It is not part of the engine.
The hole is a drain hole in case oil gets in the clutch housing.
There isn't any plug that goes in it.
There is supposed to be no oil in the clutch housing.
If oil is coming out the hole, probably an oil seal is leaking.
To replace the rear crankshaft seal, you have to split the Cub, and remove the clutch and flywheel.
The larger hole is for clutch access. There is a grease fitting there you should grease if you haven't.
The fitting is on the throwout bearing. They say on here use cheap grease, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite material in the throwout bearing. The original style bearing doesn't turn, it is a solid bearing.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual showing the clutch and the grease fitting, in the lower pic on the page.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-40.jpg
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 55987
Re: Oil Leak
Yes, Don McCombs - the hole I am referencing is the small hole just to the left of the clutch housing cover in the picture you posted. Thanks for the insight....I guess:). That is a bigger problem than I was hoping for but good to know what the next steps are.
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 55987
Re: Oil Leak
My rear seal must be REALLY leaking and shot, It drained all 3 quarts of my oil in a short time as I was mowing a couple of days ago.
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- 10+ Years
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Re: Oil Leak
your engine only holds 3.5 qts, you will damage it running it with no oil
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 55987
Re: Oil Leak
I stopped once I realized the oil was all leaking out, parked it, and checked my oil. Basically lost it all. Need to now find a mechanic that can tear it down and repair it. I consider myself pretty mechanical, but not sure I have the expertise to accomplish what needs to be done.
I appreciate all the replies and advice!
I appreciate all the replies and advice!
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- 501 Club
- Posts: 1119
- Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
- Zip Code: 29848
- Tractors Owned: Yanmar YM2000
Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Greenwood County SC
Re: Oil Leak
dbates wrote:I stopped once I realized the oil was all leaking out, parked it, and checked my oil. Basically lost it all. Need to now find a mechanic that can tear it down and repair it. I consider myself pretty mechanical, but not sure I have the expertise to accomplish what needs to be done.
I appreciate all the replies and advice!
These are about some of the simplest machines you could work on. There are step by step here as well as how to make a splitting stand. If you have done automotive repairs or worked on other equipment you can do it. I also understand not being confident in your ability as well as needing it done faster than you may be able to get it done.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6170
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil Leak
Hi,
Before you split the Cub, I would check the oil pan gasket carefully, like was said above.
If the gasket is leaking, the rear crankshaft seal might not be the problem.
There are 3 bolts across the rear of the oil pan, like at the front of the pan.
To get to them, remove the cover at the bottom front of the clutch housing, held on with the 4 bolts, and use a light and see if the pan gasket looks good.
The 3 rear bolts may be loose and need tightening.
Don't tighten them hard, the 3 bolts go into the bottom of the rear seal retainer, which is made of soft metal, the threads can strip if you tighten them too hard.
All the other pan bolts go into cast iron.
If the pan gasket is good, the oil seal is probably causing the leak.
You didn't say what year the Cub is.
You can figure out the year using the tractor serial number.
The serial number list is at the top of the page at Cub Info.
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info. I would read parts of it about splitting the Cub, and replacing the rear oil seal.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
Below is a post from the How To forum, showing making splitting stands. The one with the wheel looks handy.
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60737
Before splitting a Cub, you need to put wood wedges in at the front axle pivot.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over when splitting them, or removing heavy parts of them from the rear, without wedging the front axle pivot.
Below is a pic of the wedges, you will need to make them.
Hammer them in tight, and be sure they aren't hitting at the small end.
They should be tight on the top and bottom sides.
They don't have to be cut at so much of an angle.
Check them some during the work to be sure they don't come loose.
Before you split the Cub, I would check the oil pan gasket carefully, like was said above.
If the gasket is leaking, the rear crankshaft seal might not be the problem.
There are 3 bolts across the rear of the oil pan, like at the front of the pan.
To get to them, remove the cover at the bottom front of the clutch housing, held on with the 4 bolts, and use a light and see if the pan gasket looks good.
The 3 rear bolts may be loose and need tightening.
Don't tighten them hard, the 3 bolts go into the bottom of the rear seal retainer, which is made of soft metal, the threads can strip if you tighten them too hard.
All the other pan bolts go into cast iron.
If the pan gasket is good, the oil seal is probably causing the leak.
You didn't say what year the Cub is.
You can figure out the year using the tractor serial number.
The serial number list is at the top of the page at Cub Info.
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info. I would read parts of it about splitting the Cub, and replacing the rear oil seal.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
Below is a post from the How To forum, showing making splitting stands. The one with the wheel looks handy.
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60737
Before splitting a Cub, you need to put wood wedges in at the front axle pivot.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over when splitting them, or removing heavy parts of them from the rear, without wedging the front axle pivot.
Below is a pic of the wedges, you will need to make them.
Hammer them in tight, and be sure they aren't hitting at the small end.
They should be tight on the top and bottom sides.
They don't have to be cut at so much of an angle.
Check them some during the work to be sure they don't come loose.
-
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 55987
Re: Oil Leak
Great information, Glen! Thank you!
I believe it is a 1977 model International Cub based on the engine serial # 251341R7....
I believe it is a 1977 model International Cub based on the engine serial # 251341R7....
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6170
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil Leak
Hi,
251341R7 is the IH part number of the engine block, it is not the engine serial number.
They all have the part number cast on the engine block.
I can tell somewhat when that was made, the R7 block was made from about 1954 - 1964.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual showing where the tractor and engine serial numbers are. The numbers are stamped on the plate, and on the block. Sometimes people paint over the plate, or the plate is gone.
You might need to clean the block, and use a light to see the number.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-02.jpg
251341R7 is the IH part number of the engine block, it is not the engine serial number.
They all have the part number cast on the engine block.
I can tell somewhat when that was made, the R7 block was made from about 1954 - 1964.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual showing where the tractor and engine serial numbers are. The numbers are stamped on the plate, and on the block. Sometimes people paint over the plate, or the plate is gone.
You might need to clean the block, and use a light to see the number.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-02.jpg
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 55987
Re: Oil Leak
Thank you for the continuing education! The plate is definitely gone but I will work a little harder to find the serial number where the plate should have been.
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