No serial number plate

[Pap]

I am very new at this so I hope y'all will bear with me. I just got my grandfather's old cub of my uncle that pasted away. About 25 to 30 years ago the shed that he keep it in burned and the serial number plate melted off. He just halfway sanded and painted it after that. I am go to try and restore it right. But I don't know the serial and I can't make out any numbers on the engine block. Is there any other way that I can find or get the number. My uncle is no longer with us but I can remember that he said he thought it is a 1947 but I would like to know for sure. Any help will be very appreciated.

[Barnyard]

Get some casting codes of the trans, bolster, or finals. That can get you close to the year.

A casting date code would look like the top row of numbers in this pic.

[Pap]

Ok thanks Barnyard. I will see if I can find them.

[Pap]

I looked and it is 4*28*either T or 7 . I can't really tell what the last one is. I hope is helps.

[Barnyard]

It would be a letter and not a number, so it would be a T. The part was cast on April 28, 1950. Assuming that is the original part, your Cub is about a mid 1950.

[Pap]

Ok that was on the trans. The block is 10*16*Q....the axle is 8*7*Q...and where the clutch is 10*1*Q..I though this thing was all original but it got all diff. numbers.

[tractorpoor]

The Q would make it a 47 I believe.

[indy61]

Try to find the engine serial number.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_003.htm

[Pap]

I was looking at the loose pages of the shop manual that my uncle had and it has in it # 11303 . I don't know what it means it is just a number.

[indy61]

11303 is probably the serial number. Built Dec. 1947

[Pap]

Ok thanks I guess that it is ok to get a blank plate and use that number when I fix it up. Or is that not legal to do that.

[Barnyard]

Ok thanks I guess that it is ok to get a blank plate and use that number when I fix it up. Or is that not legal to do that.

It is legal. Since you have that number in the manual, I would say it is the real serial number. However, the front from the engine forward may have been replaced. See if yo can find the cast codes on the finals.

[Stanton]

Ok thanks I guess that it is ok to get a blank plate and use that number when I fix it up. Or is that not legal to do that.

Welcome to the Forum! The casting dates on your cast iron pieces may be cross referenced here: http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_001.htm


Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Don't know which manuals you have to your Cub, but now that you’ve logged more than two posts, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Take some pictures of your tractor and post them, we’d like to see them.

Remember:

• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.

[Pap]

Thanks Stanton. I am very glad I found y'all.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub owner's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1947 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1947 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.

Cubs before mid 1950 originally have a 4 position charge and light switch on the dash, to control the generator output, and for the lights.
It was before Cubs had voltage regulators, you had to choose the charge rate yourself.
The switch has 4 positions, L, low charge, H, high charge, D, dim front lights, and B, bright lights.
The electrical system info begins on page 32 of the manual, and using the switch is explained on page 34.
The charging system originally has a cutout, or Relay, IH called it on top of the generator, there is a pic on page 33 of the manual with the hood off, showing the electrical system.
You should be able to see what it is charging on the ammeter, when the engine is running.
The engine has to be above idle speed for the gen to charge.

There is no Touch Control info in the 1947 owner's manual. It is in later owner's manuals.
The Touch Control uses Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.
The newer manuals tell how to check or change the Touch Control fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Be sure to check the fluid level with the arms in the rear, or down position. The manual says that also.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.
The manual tells how to check and change the oils.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search box at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can find info in posts that have been made.

The engine oil pump can lose it's prime sitting, then if you run the engine, it may not suck oil up again.
Running the engine with no oil pressure can damage the engine.
Below is a link to a post I made about priming the oil pump, my post is about half way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

The ignition points get old and burned from use, and sometimes corroded from sitting.
The engine may not run if the points are burned or corroded.
The owner's manual tells how to replace the points, and set their gap, it's important the points be in good condition, and have the right gap. You need a feeler gauge to set the gap.
You can file the point surfaces if they are still good. They should be flat and shiny so the engine will start good and run good. Wipe off all filing with a clean rag.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for new points and condenser, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

It tells how to fill the radiator in the owner's manual. Fill it to slightly below the filler neck, like the manual says.
The coolant expands as the engine warms up. It will push whatever is extra out the overflow pipe.
When the engine is off, and it cools down again, the coolant level will be about at where it needs to be. You can look in with a light and see it.
Usually it is just covering the baffle below the filler neck, when the engine is cold.
Don't keep adding more coolant to fill it full when the engine is cold, it will probably just push it out when the engine warms up.
Check the coolant level some in hot weather, it can get low, then the engine can overheat.
The engine has no water pump, the coolant won't circulate if the level is too low.