Mower won't Lower on my 53 Cub...

[Farmer Dell]

I have a Woods belly mower on my 53, it is lowered by a control arm from near the throttle, but my problem is I can't seem to lower it for cutting! I have included some photos of the linkage; maybe someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong?

[john2189]

Does the lever by the throttle move ? If so it could be low on hy/Tran fluid.
Or the drive gear might have come off of the hydraulic pump.

[Farmer Dell]

Thank you, I hope it's the first one, I'll have to check later, thanks for getting back to me so quickly!

[indy61]

I'm not sure but the lift arms don't look to be correct.

[john2189]

Did it work before?

[Urbish]

The lift arm linkage looks correct to me. As the others said, you'll want to check your fluid level in the hydraulic unit (called Touch Control). Unlike some hydraulic units, the Touch Control is dual-acting in that it requires fluid pressure to move in both directions (vs. power up/gravity down). So if you're low on fluid or the gear has fallen off the hydraulic pump, it won't move.

[Glen]

Hi,
That is the Touch Control lever and quadrant next to the the throttle lever.
The lever should move easily from near the front, to near the rear of the quadrant anytime, but it should have a slight drag to move it.
When the engine is running, moving the lever should make the arms move, wherever the lever is in it's travel.

The system has to have fluid to work, if the fluid is too low, it won't work.

Below is a post I made about checking or changing the Touch Control fluid.
Be sure to move the arms to the rear or down position, before checking the fluid, it should be full to the filler plug hole.
If the system is so low on fluid that the arms won't move, you will need to put in fluid before you can check the fluid level.
The system holds 3 1/2 Pints total, that's less than 2 Quarts.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

If I posted an operator's manual for you before, they have info for the Touch Control in them.

Case IH Hy-Tran fluid is thin hydraulic fluid.
There are other brands, be sure it works in IH hydraulic systems before buying it.

If the system is empty of fluid, the engine should not be run until fluid is put in, it can damage the Touch Control pump. The pump has turning parts in it, it has to have fluid for lubrication.

[Waif]

Wow , my set up must be off. Rockshaft front lobe is almost vertical , with straight piece bolted to it at 7 and 2;oclock when deck is fully down.
Been running it like that for years.

Leaks show on O.P.'s picture.
Are they hydraulic fluid or other , he can figure out.
But yes , checking level hydraulic fluid as mentioned and filing and burping seems a place to start.
Lubing rockshafts too.

[Farmer Dell]

Well that was it, as far as I can tell the hydraulic reservoir was empty.
The manual said it should be about half full, although a lot of places will fill right up to the plug.
After reading a little, I discovered that IH-"Hytran" is a 10 weight Hydraulic/Transmission fluid, built to control moisture. IH said it was actually Dextron II in the "pre" Tenneco days...

So anyway, I have some cans lying around which worked on our old "Army Tugboats" hydraulic equipment (we used to call cherry juice) and the quart brought the reservoir's level a little above half way, to what the operators manual recommended for trapped air in the system.
As soon as I poured it in, she worked just as smooth as 6 years ago! Thanks for all the feedback, in my "old age" sometimes I miss the most obvious!
And I'm too impatient to have to be doing overhauls on old equipment, that by comparison; I think seems to last forever!

[tst]

good, now you need to find out where the old fluid went, external leak or check your engine oil to make sure its not over full and leaked in there

[Farmer Dell]

Yup, I plan on checking it after cleaning (degreasing) the engine and components, given the time to wash it outside. Right now I have some oil absorbent pads I keep checking. Nothing major, but some seepage (class one leaks) I need to check out. I was thinking about putting some
ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leak in with the oil, if you think that would help the old seals?

Here's a memory for you, remember these?

[Don McCombs]

If your engine oil is high, you have a Touch Control pump shaft leak. I would recommend fixing the leak, as opposed to using an additive. It’s not a difficult job.

[Farmer Dell]

Don,
That's a relief, my oil is at the normal range; I'm new at the terminology, do you have a photo, or the page in the owners manual? Going to be busy the next few days, I will have to check back in later. But thank you very much!

[Don McCombs]

If your Touch Control fluid level is low, but the engine oil level is normal, you need to look for a leak elsewhere. I'd fill the Touch Control reservoir, then monitor it for a week or two. Let us know what you observe.

[Farmer Dell]

This may not be something I should say for restoration minded members, but an old Army buddy I was speaking with this weekend told be careful when degreasing those old tractors, as you may actually start some new leaks. It seems that years of dirty and grime may actually help to protect the old seals! He told me that many an old tractor his father owned was never disturbed of cleaned up too well, for fear of disturbing the gaskets! It makes sense to me, but I also know that sooner or later seals must be repaired or replaced when needed. I guess it all depends on ones outlook, or even how deep ones pockets are. I plan on moving forward on my cleanup and inspection, but no way I'm hitting the old engine with a power washer like I had originally planned on doing.