1953 Farmall Cub won’t start

[Farmer Dell]

The F & L labeling is confusing to me - what do they stand for?
The tractor cranks, has good fuel and compression, put in a new 6 volt coil, cap, plugs and wiring yet no spark.
Never mind, about the battery being installed backwards, YouTube shows it is wired correctly. So now I have a question about the regulator - something I don't wish to get into. Any suggestions on how to chase down this issue?

[NJ Farmer]

Forget red and black colored wires. If it is a true 1953 6 volt tractor then the positive terminal of the battery will go to ground. Then the negative post cable (very long cable) will go to the starter lug on the engine.

Who know what the past owner knew about wiring and color coding. These 6 volt models are all positive ground.

[NJ Farmer]

Check with a test light if you have power at the distributor post when the ignition switch is on. If not you need to trace that back. No power at the points = no spark.

[Farmer Dell]

Thank you, NJ Farmer, I will check the posts on the distributor, I know I have no spark from the coil to the plugs, as I have an inline indicator light.
Yup, no power at the terminals, and I can't help wonder if it was sabotaged by a disgruntled tenant I put out of the farmhouse after over a year not paying the rent? But I regress!

[tst]

check the points condition and gap ?

[Farmer Dell]

check the points condition and gap ?

Yes sir, I did. It's looking more and more like a broken wire?

[Glen]

The F & L labeling is confusing to me - what do they stand for?

Hi,
I guess you are talking about the F and L posts on the voltage regulator.

F is Field, 1 of the 2 connections on the generator is marked F, a short wire goes from the gen F post, to the voltage regulator F post.

L is not as clearly known, Lights is one meaning it has, Load is another name. It powers the lights and ignition system.
A wire goes from the L post on the regulator to the ignition switch, and a wire from the ignition switch goes to the fuse for the lights, and powers the lights.

There is also Bat on 1 regulator post, for Battery.
And Gen on 1 regulator post, a short wire goes from it to the A post on the gen.

The wiring diagrams are in the 1952, or 1955 Cub operator's manuals.

Maybe you are talking about something else.

[Farmer Dell]

The F & L labeling is confusing to me - what do they stand for?

Hi,
I guess you are talking about the F and L posts on the voltage regulator.

F is Field, 1 of the 2 connections on the generator is marked F, a short wire goes from the gen F post, to the voltage regulator F post.

L is not as clearly known, Lights is one meaning it has, Load is another name. It powers the lights and ignition system.
A wire goes from the L post on the regulator to the ignition switch, and a wire from the ignition switch goes to the fuse for the lights, and powers the lights.

There is also Bat on 1 regulator post, for Battery.
And Gen on 1 regulator post, a short wire goes from it to the A post on the gen.

The wiring diagrams are in the 1952, or 1955 Cub operator's manuals.

Maybe you are talking about something else.

Nope, that is exactly what I was referring to, and thank you for answering it!
I am going to print out your reply, as I'm getting ready to go out and troubleshoot for a break.
Manuals are great, but nothing beats someone explaining the wiring to the correct feeds!
I'm sure I will have more questions before I'm done, but you have narrows down wear to look first.

Thank you all for the feedback, this is a great site to be a member of!

[NJ Farmer]

Yes this site has been a vast resource of many technically proficient Cub owners. I think we all help each other out in one way or another. We are all talented in many areas and peoples problems always highlight new solutions.

NJ farmer

[Farmer Dell]

I received some good advice, the first thing I did was make a jumper from the Battery to the neg side of the coil, and she started right up.
So then tracing the wiring back began, the good thing is; I didn't have to go too far in finding cracked and exposed wiring. I hooked an alligator clip to the coil post and the exposed wire, and again she fired right up!
I then sleeved the end of the old wiring with some insolation of a heavier gauge wire, sealed it up to the cloth covering and added a new solder-less connection. Ran it again and shut it off pushing the engine button in.
The next step is adding the coolant, and I should be good to go!

I told my neighbor as we were testing out his boat, about this group, and how the feedback was much better than just using a manual!
Thanks Again, you made an old tugboat mechanic very happy today!

[Farmer Dell]

I'm a little off-topic now, but check out this corrosion inhibitor I saved from the Army's dumpster. I'm betting this mil-spec treatment for the old trucks will work wonders. Not only that, but it has to be good for long term field operations!
At any rate, it is better than just water, and Lord know what a new brass radiator runs nowadays- if you could find one!