I'm still trying to locate the noise that I thought was coming from the right final, possibly a bad bearing. I'm working an elimination of possibilities. The left final was removed last week, and all the bearings were good. I replaced all the oil seals and cleaned up the final and brake while I was in there. All good there. Thanks to one of Dale's previous threads, that was a pretty easy chore. I also used a hint from a youtube fella up in Maine on removing the final that worked great by the way, because I don't have a hydraulic lift. Picture of how the Maine guy did it is attached - I can link the video too, just not sure if I should or not though (is that permitted in the forum rules?).
Anyway, here is my safety question: I took off the right final yesterday and want to replace the differential seal. I need to remove the axle housing in order to get to the inner differential oil seal. I have the right rear tire/wheel and final off, leaving the other three on the ground. The front axle is wedged on both sides at the bolster and the wedges are clamped down tight. The tractor's wheels are blocked and it is in gear. I'm worried about jacking up the tractor on the differential/tranny though. Is that where it should be jacked up? The center of balance sure looks precarious. I don't want it to tip! Here's the right side:
Advice?
Safety question
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-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Safety question

"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 580
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:28 am
- Zip Code: 48154
- Tractors Owned: 1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub (SOLD)
1994 Speedex 1631 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Howell, MI
Re: Safety question
I recently disassembled mine from the rear to remove the transmission. In my case I jacked under the torque tube, ahead of the transmission. There would be even less weight on the jack if you use it under the transmission.
With the left tire and wheel mounted the tractor is probably pretty well balanced along the drive line or even heavier to the left.
It's important to make sure your wedges on the front axle are tight and block all the remaining wheels to keep the tractor from moving.
With the left tire and wheel mounted the tractor is probably pretty well balanced along the drive line or even heavier to the left.
It's important to make sure your wedges on the front axle are tight and block all the remaining wheels to keep the tractor from moving.
1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:13 pm
- Zip Code: 68803
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub, Kittie; 1948 Cub, Harold; 1949 Cub, 49er; 1951 Cub, Tucker; 1951 Cub, Homely; 1956 Cub High Crop; 1957 Cub Loboy; 57 Cub Loboy w/fasthitch + 194 plow; 1958 Cub LoBoy w/FH, Popeye; 1961 Cub, Beater; #1-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot Throttle; #2-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot throttle; Yellow 1963 Cub Loboy and blade; 1970 Cub, Cubbie; and 5 other Cubs in various stages of disaasembly and disrepair; 1962 Cub Cadet Original; 2 other Cub Cadet Originals; Cub Cadet 100; Cub Cadet 124 w/Creeper; Cub Cadet 147; 2 Cub Cadet 129's; Cub Cadet 149; 1948 Allis Chalmers C w/single frontwheel; 1944 Farmall H w/Tokhiem Cab; 2 One Point Fasthitch Carriers; 2-#100 Fasthitch Rear Blade; 2 Sets Cub 144 Cultivators; 2 Sets Cub #252 Cultivators; 3 Cub #193 Mouldboard Plows; 1 Cub #193 Slatted Plow; 1 1948 Cub-54 Snow Plow; 3 Cub-54 49-5 Snow Plows; Cub #6 Tool Bar w/Disc Blades & Middlebuster. 2-#105 sickle mowers, #152 disc plow
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Grand Island, Nebraska
Re: Safety question
Once a rear wheel is off the ground the transmission being in gear doesn’t stop it from moving. Glad you are being safety conscious. Good Luck!
Frank
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Safety question
Thanks Frank & MiCarl, for the input. I took the plunge and jacked the Cub up under the tranny. Worked great and I got the axle housing off in good shape.
Thanks again for the help.
Here's what I found at the tranny. I've already removed the bearing race holder and ordered a used one to replace it with. The shims, shim o-ring, and the inner oil seal are all going to be replaced, along with several of the grade 5 bolts holding everything together. Pretty darn rusty in there. I had to grind off one of the bearing race bolt heads to get it off. I believe the tranny bearing is okay. Things will be going together again as soon as some parts arrive. Thanks again for the help.

"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Safety question
One last picture - not an original idea to me - I got the tip from watching the youtube video I mentioned above - terrific idea though. Just cut a hunk of angle iron, drill a couple of holes spaced just right and the heavy final is easy to work on. Check it out:

"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6006
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Safety question
Hi,
When putting the final drives on the Cub, when the casting is going onto the 2 dowel pins, remember to look in by the front of the brake, and be sure the brake pin goes into the hole in the transmission housing, on the left side, or the hole in the right side extension, on the right side, and is still in place in the hole in the final drive.
The final drive should go onto the dowel pins by hand, if the pins are clean and not rusty.
Don't tighten the 6 bolts until you are sure the brake pin is in the hole for it, at both ends of it, you can break the casting tightening the bolts with the pin out of the hole.
Below is a pic of putting it together, on the right side. Use a light to see it if needed. It is the newer style brake in the pic, the 1st style has a pin too.
The brakes can make noises when the tractor is moving, scraping and squeaking noises.
If you can't find anything wrong with the final drive, it could be the brake making noise.
You didn't post any pics of the brake, I don't think you said if it is wornout.
When putting the final drives on the Cub, when the casting is going onto the 2 dowel pins, remember to look in by the front of the brake, and be sure the brake pin goes into the hole in the transmission housing, on the left side, or the hole in the right side extension, on the right side, and is still in place in the hole in the final drive.
The final drive should go onto the dowel pins by hand, if the pins are clean and not rusty.
Don't tighten the 6 bolts until you are sure the brake pin is in the hole for it, at both ends of it, you can break the casting tightening the bolts with the pin out of the hole.
Below is a pic of putting it together, on the right side. Use a light to see it if needed. It is the newer style brake in the pic, the 1st style has a pin too.
The brakes can make noises when the tractor is moving, scraping and squeaking noises.
If you can't find anything wrong with the final drive, it could be the brake making noise.
You didn't post any pics of the brake, I don't think you said if it is wornout.

- Attachments
-
- Cub brake pin .jpg (35.88 KiB) Viewed 279 times
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: Safety question
Hi Glen, and thanks for the tips. The brakes (both sides) looked good, very oily which was not a surprise given the condition of the seals. I cleaned the brakes and drums up and will reuse them. Not many hills in my neck of the woods, and I think this tractor was used mainly for mowing by the PO, so the brakes probably only got light use. Here's a picture of the left side brake drum and differential shaft before I put it back on:

"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
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