starting crank

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tomstractor
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starting crank

Postby tomstractor » Tue Mar 09, 2021 11:45 am

I went to set the timing on my Lowboy and the crank does not fit in the ft casting. I tried the crank on another Cub and it fits just fine. It seems that the casting is too small. Anybody ever see this problem? :help:

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Barnyard
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Re: starting crank

Postby Barnyard » Tue Mar 09, 2021 11:58 am

Yes, I have seen it on occasion. You might need to grind a bit off each end of the end pin.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.

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tomstractor
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Tractors Owned: 49 Cub,57Cub, 57 Low Boy, 48 BN, 48 Ford8N, 49Ford 8N, 56 Massey Harris 50, 58 MF 65, 77 MF 265
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Location: Belchertown, MA

Re: starting crank

Postby tomstractor » Tue Mar 09, 2021 12:34 pm

would it be safe to try to grind the sides, where the pin goes, to open it up or would I hit water?

Bob McCarty
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Re: starting crank

Postby Bob McCarty » Tue Mar 09, 2021 12:52 pm

The pulley is on the end of the crankshaft. No where close to any water jacket. Here's a picture from TM Tractor: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/5761fp.htm
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we need to think differently."
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Waif
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Re: starting crank

Postby Waif » Tue Mar 09, 2021 12:57 pm

I'm not recommending...Due to the odds of hitting the crank on something by not removing it after starting..

My 48 Cub has an ear broken off the pully the crank fits into. Standard pin slips off trying to grip it to crank.
So , I have a longer pin than standard , (and maybe just a tad greater diameter , but the need to be sure it's not tight in the pully remains) which means installing the pin with the crank handle pin end put through the front bolster first. And having to remove pin to remove crank.
So I leave it in and don't bump it against anything...

With yours I'd try Barnyards suggestion. You might want to have a spare pin just in case.
Relieving the casting to allow your existing pin instead , will take some grinding effort exceeding trying the reduced pin first. And pins are a better risk in altering , vs castings..

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Barnyard
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Re: starting crank

Postby Barnyard » Tue Mar 09, 2021 2:02 pm

Bob McCarty wrote:The pulley is on the end of the crankshaft. No where close to any water jacket. Here's a picture from TM Tractor: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/5761fp.htm

Bob, Tom said it isn't fitting in the casting, which I would think means the bolster not the pulley.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.

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tomstractor
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Re: starting crank

Postby tomstractor » Tue Mar 09, 2021 2:37 pm

:thanx: Yes it was in the bolster that the crank would not fit. I used a long carbide burr in my die grinder and cleaned the hole. It now fits.

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Re: starting crank

Postby SamsFarm » Tue Mar 09, 2021 2:40 pm

This definately sounds like the best option!

Barnyard wrote:Yes, I have seen it on occasion. You might need to grind a bit off each end of the end pin.



Who knows maybe someone changed out the pin years earlier and put a longer one in!
I have 2 cranks and the pins in them are both 1 1/4 inch long. How long is the pin in your crank?

But......
Double check that there is not some obstruction or casting flaw in the crank key hole under the grill and radiator!
1968 Cub Fast-Hitch

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Barnyard
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Re: starting crank

Postby Barnyard » Tue Mar 09, 2021 2:47 pm

tomstractor wrote::thanx: Yes it was in the bolster that the crank would not fit. I used a long carbide burr in my die grinder and cleaned the hole. It now fits.

Glad to hear you got it fixed.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.

Circle of Safety

Bob McCarty
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Re: starting crank

Postby Bob McCarty » Tue Mar 09, 2021 3:05 pm

Barnyard wrote:Glad to hear you got it fixed.

:Dito:
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: starting crank

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Mar 09, 2021 4:17 pm

I have over the years seen several cubs a standard crank would not fit, but a homemade one I purchased on Ebay did fit. ON practically all of the ones an original crank did not fit I could see signs of freezing on the bolster, the most common one being the top of the bolster not being flat.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

tomstractor
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Tractors Owned: 49 Cub,57Cub, 57 Low Boy, 48 BN, 48 Ford8N, 49Ford 8N, 56 Massey Harris 50, 58 MF 65, 77 MF 265
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Belchertown, MA

Re: starting crank

Postby tomstractor » Tue Mar 09, 2021 4:46 pm

I have 3 cranks and 2 look to be factory and 1 maybe homemade. The pins in all of them are 1 1/4 x 5/16. They all fit now. It looks to have been a flaw in the casting of the bolster. I would have thought that in all the years since this was made that somebody would have fixed this problem. When I decided to fix it, it only took about 1/2 hour.

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Dale Finch
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Re: starting crank

Postby Dale Finch » Tue Mar 09, 2021 5:30 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:I have over the years seen several cubs a standard crank would not fit, but a homemade one I purchased on Ebay did fit. ON practically all of the ones an original crank did not fit I could see signs of freezing on the bolster, the most common one being the top of the bolster not being flat.

This is what I have also seen. Freezing can cause the bolster to bulge.
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SamsFarm
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Zip Code: 44410
Tractors Owned: 1968 Cub Fast Hitch
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144 Cultivators
L-F194 Plow(s)
F38 Disk
L-F3 Spring Tooth Harrow
CS Bell No. 60 Grain Mill on a unmodified Fast Hitch Disk hitch prong
Home Made Fast Hitch Potato Plow
54A Blade

Couple 1948 Cubs
172 Runner Planter
53 Fertilizer
Cub-3 Field Cultivator
Cub-189 Two Way Plow
Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower
Mechanical Transplanter with side mount barrel (needs a fast hitch adapter) :)

Misc Belly Mowers

Wish List
International 100 Fast Hitch Blade
Mott Fast Hitch Flail Mower

Wish Wish Wish List
Fast Hitch Rotary Hoe
4E hammer mill
Location: Ne Ohio

Re: starting crank

Postby SamsFarm » Tue Mar 09, 2021 6:32 pm

Glad to hear you got it and it was a simple fix!

tomstractor wrote:I would have thought that in all the years since this was made that somebody would have fixed this problem.


YOU just might be the first one to put a crank to it.

It may be that I was the first one to ever crank start my 68 cub. Bought mine around 2003!

I carry the crank" just in case", a weak battery, or when a battery droppes a cell, the starter might not work, but usually there is enough juice to run the coil, and with the crank you can be back in business! :tractor:

Had someone told me when I was younger that I would be crank starting tractors when I get (got) older, I woulda told them, yea right, your full of it! :)

But now I think its kinda cool to have that option!
1968 Cub Fast-Hitch

k hutchins
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Re: starting crank

Postby k hutchins » Sun Mar 14, 2021 10:52 am

Samsfarm
That is exactly the reason l prefer mags to distributors. You don't even need a batt with a mag.
I've cranked a lot over the years when the batt was dead and l didn't have the funds for a new one, or the starter needed work and again short on funds.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:


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