I recently replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bushing, throw out bearing and yoke. The pedal has the 1 inch of free movement, and I greased the end of the driveshaft. Problem is when I start the tractor and its in neutral it wont go into gear or pto wont engage without grinding. If I start it in gear it'll go through the gears fine and the pto will engage without grinding. Is there something I'm missing or something I forgot??
Thanks.
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Clutch issue
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Re: Clutch issue
Did you adjust the fingers after the pressure plate was bolted to the flywheel?
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Re: Clutch issue
And did you ream out the pilot bushing AFTER it was installed? It can compress some during installation, reducing the inner diameter. This can "grab" the drive shaft and not let it stop turning even when you have the clutch depressed.
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Re: Clutch issue
Hi,
Below is your post from December, you could review and see if you read everything in it.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=109398
Below is your post from December, you could review and see if you read everything in it.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=109398
Last edited by Glen on Wed Jan 06, 2021 8:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Clutch issue
The fingers on the pressure plate was set to 1 1/8 inch. I also honed the pilot bushing to 5/8 inch and put grease in it. I seen in a couple posts people recommending doing that.
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Re: Clutch issue
Hi,
It sounds like the pressure plate finger height is good, if that is measured with the plate assembled on the flywheel.
I don't know if it works to just ream the pilot bushing to 5/8" and it works right.
The Cub service manual says to check the running clearance, you measure the ID of the bushing with a dial caliper after putting the bushing in the crankshaft hole, before putting the pressure plate on.
And measure the end of the clutch shaft, then ream the bushing if needed to get the right clearance.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual telling the sizes, at Spline and clutch shaft.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg
Another thing to check is the straightness of the clutch shaft.
Turn the clutch shaft slowly, while the cub is split, and be sure it is straight, some people have said the shaft was bent, then the clutch shaft doesn't stop turning in the pilot bushing when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
I don't know how the shafts get bent, unless people do it when splitting the Cub, putting weight on the end of the shaft after the engine and clutch housing separate off the 2 dowel pins.
The engine and clutch housing need supporting so they don't drop down when separated.
It sounds like the pressure plate finger height is good, if that is measured with the plate assembled on the flywheel.
I don't know if it works to just ream the pilot bushing to 5/8" and it works right.
The Cub service manual says to check the running clearance, you measure the ID of the bushing with a dial caliper after putting the bushing in the crankshaft hole, before putting the pressure plate on.
And measure the end of the clutch shaft, then ream the bushing if needed to get the right clearance.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual telling the sizes, at Spline and clutch shaft.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg
Another thing to check is the straightness of the clutch shaft.
Turn the clutch shaft slowly, while the cub is split, and be sure it is straight, some people have said the shaft was bent, then the clutch shaft doesn't stop turning in the pilot bushing when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
I don't know how the shafts get bent, unless people do it when splitting the Cub, putting weight on the end of the shaft after the engine and clutch housing separate off the 2 dowel pins.
The engine and clutch housing need supporting so they don't drop down when separated.
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