Hi,
Good that you got the clutch pedal working.
If the screws for the radiator side panels are twisted off, at the top or the bottom, it might be hard to see where the screws go.
Twisted off screws need to be drilled, and if the broken piece of screw won't come out of the hole, the threads tapped for the right size screw.
You would need to look up the right size drill bit to use in the hole for making new threads.
The bit is smaller then the full size of the hole.
You would need a tap the right size and thread for the holes.
Maybe you already know about fixing broken screws.
Be careful with the bottom screws, they are at the radiator lower tank. If you drill in too far, you will drill into the engine coolant, and have a leak.
The hood has nuts welded on at the edge for the side panel screws.
Below is a listing for new radiator side panels at TM Tractor, the 3 pics at the bottom of the page show the screws in the panels, and 1 pic shows the grille attached to the panels.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tg/229fp.htm
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Cub Clutch pedal stuck - any suggestions
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- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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- Location: Wa.
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Re: Cub Clutch pedal stuck - any suggestions
Dear Glen,
Thanks so much. I should have read your reply before posting another topic. I took the tractor out yesterday and the clutch feels great. I put never seize on the shaft and put new springs and everything feels pretty good.
The pictures help a lot. I purchases the ears/legs and didn't see where they are attached.
Do you have to drill and tap into the cast frame? upon closer look, it seems like there is a punch out ready to accept a bolt.
Thanks for all your help. I'll upload a photo shortly. Thanks again
Thanks so much. I should have read your reply before posting another topic. I took the tractor out yesterday and the clutch feels great. I put never seize on the shaft and put new springs and everything feels pretty good.
The pictures help a lot. I purchases the ears/legs and didn't see where they are attached.
Do you have to drill and tap into the cast frame? upon closer look, it seems like there is a punch out ready to accept a bolt.
Thanks for all your help. I'll upload a photo shortly. Thanks again
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6171
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Cub Clutch pedal stuck - any suggestions
Hi,
The hood side panels are not an extra, every Cub came with that style, up to mid 1964. If you didn't have any, someone left them off the Cub.
If the holes are not open, someone twisted off the screws.
Pics of your Cub would be helpful.
If the screws are twisted off, they need to be drilled out, like I said above.
Use a good center punch and punch the screw exactly in the center. If the end of the screw is not flat, grind it flat first. Remove as little material as possible when grinding.
Start with a drill bit smaller than the screw, and keep it in the center of the screw, don't let it wander off to the side.
If you are drilling in the lower casting, they have said on here when you drill through an original length screw, there is a space between the end of the screw and the casting. The drill will pass through the space freely. Stop drilling then, don't drill into the casting, the coolant is in the casting.
It's possible the screws were not the original length, if they were longer, there might be no space at the end of the screw, measure the hole depth, and be careful.
Remember to look up the size drill bit to use in the hole before cutting new threads. The bit has to be smaller than the OD of the screw threads.
The hood side panels are not an extra, every Cub came with that style, up to mid 1964. If you didn't have any, someone left them off the Cub.
If the holes are not open, someone twisted off the screws.
Pics of your Cub would be helpful.
If the screws are twisted off, they need to be drilled out, like I said above.
Use a good center punch and punch the screw exactly in the center. If the end of the screw is not flat, grind it flat first. Remove as little material as possible when grinding.
Start with a drill bit smaller than the screw, and keep it in the center of the screw, don't let it wander off to the side.
If you are drilling in the lower casting, they have said on here when you drill through an original length screw, there is a space between the end of the screw and the casting. The drill will pass through the space freely. Stop drilling then, don't drill into the casting, the coolant is in the casting.
It's possible the screws were not the original length, if they were longer, there might be no space at the end of the screw, measure the hole depth, and be careful.
Remember to look up the size drill bit to use in the hole before cutting new threads. The bit has to be smaller than the OD of the screw threads.
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