Clutch break down on ’49 F-Cub

[Flemmingth]

A nice day in the woods, cutting down unwanted trees and making firewood, ended discouraging.
When I left for home with a good load on the trailer behind the Cub, the clutch gave up.
Impossible to get it in any gear, so I had to leave the tractor and walk, little less than ½ mile.
Next day our good neighbor came with his Deutz and pulled Cub and trailer back home.
When I took the TOB apart, I found that the bearing is an ordinary ball bearing (6008RS), not at intended for axial forces. Looks a little strange. The TOB retainer has the original part no. embossed in the casting, but no holes for grease zerk and grease release. And maybe a PO (without knowledge about bearings) has replaced a ruined roller bearing with the ordinary ball bearing ? ? Whatever ? ?
Among other things, I’ve ordered new pressure plate and TOB at TM, and expect delivery Dec. 22nd.
Edit: New TOB is praphite style.

[Rick Spivey]

Almost looks like someone mounted the TO bearing in the old graphite style housing....

[Peter Person]

Flemming,
When you get the new graphite TOB, soak it in some SAE30 oil for a few days. Put it in the sun or even a small toaster oven to really get the graphite saturated with oil. Then, use the least expensive non-synthetic grease you can find in Denmark to fill the TOB cavity till it comes out the overfill hole opposite the grease zerk. You want the oil in the grease to leach into the graphite. A dry TOB will heat up. The clutch fingers won’t slip on the surface of the graphite, eventually chatter and then the TOB starts breaking apart.
Here’s an example of a brand new TOB that was installed dry, with the wrong type of grease, and even if it were the correct grease, not filled to overflowing.

[Flemmingth]

Almost looks like someone mounted the TO bearing in the old graphite style housing....

Right - but the housing isn't old style, because it's missing the holes for grease zerk and grease release. Looks like it's designed for bearing, but equipped with wrong type of bearing. Axial pressure to an ordinary ball bearing will create increased friction, which means that the TOB will grind on the fingers until the force from the pedal is strong enough, and the TOB inner ring starts rotating with the pressure plate speed.

[Flemmingth]

Flemming,
When you get the new graphite TOB, soak it in some SAE30 oil for a few days. Put it in the sun or even a small toaster oven to really get the graphite saturated with oil. Then, use the least expensive non-synthetic grease you can find in Denmark to fill the TOB cavity till it comes out the overfill hole opposite the grease zerk. You want the oil in the grease to leach into the graphite. A dry TOB will heat up. The clutch fingers won’t slip on the surface of the graphite, eventually chatter and then the TOB starts breaking apart.
Here’s an example of a brand new TOB that was installed dry, with the wrong type of grease, and even if it were the correct grease, not filled to overflowing.
44689CE2-07AB-415F-B8AA-01B7064208D6.jpeg

Hi Peter,
Thanks a lot for the advices, and especially for the pic.
It shows very well, that a few strokes with a grease gun is far from enough.
The TOB will be lubed and greased according to all the rules of art - as well as your advices.

[Bill Hudson]

I would alter the order of steps to lube the TOB that Peter suggested. Put the grease (cheapest you can find) in first, soak the TOB in oil, place the TOB on a small pan in a toaster oven (graphite face down to let gravity work for you on the grease) and heat it up.

Bill

[Peter Person]

I would alter the order of steps to lube the TOB that Peter suggested. Put the grease (cheapest you can find) in first, soak the TOB in oil, place the TOB on a small pan in a toaster oven (graphite face down to let gravity work for you on the grease) and heat it up.

Bill

[Jim Becker]

I suspect that Flemming's ball bearing was made/sold by someone that got their holder from the same source used by the aftermarket graphite bearing manufacturer. Thus their holder has the IH part number. But since they were going to insert a sealed bearing, they didn't bother to drill for the fitting and relief hole.

On the question of greasing before or after soaking in oil, it occurs to me the most complete option would probably be to remove the grease fitting and squirt it full of oil, then soak it. Either soak it face down or be sure it is in enough oil for complete submersion. After letting it soak a few days, reinstall the grease fitting and pump it full of grease (expecting it to push oil out the relief hole).

Whichever way you soak it, at installation time put a light coating of lubricant on the face of the graphite and the contact areas of the fingers. No point putting much there as it would just be thrown off anyway. I used grease but suppose a case can be made for using oil. I would do the same if I decided to use one of the ball bearings.

[Flemmingth]

TOB is received and now soaking in SAE30 motoroil, after I removed the zerk and filled the void.
When my patience runs out, the TOB void will be pumped full of grease, and the tractor assembled.
And of course PP finger heights and pedal free play will be adjusted acc. to HOW TO section.
Thanks for all the advices and comments, and a happy New Year to all of you.