Wiring Advice needed

[Jose Wales]

Finally able to get back to working on the cub, put on a new starter switch and coil but after looking at the harness there are many wires that are bad, bare and broken and many taped off from the harness from or to where I don't know. I think a major re-wiring is due and at the price of a wiring harness I thought that I could just re-wire it myself and save a lot of money. What would anyone with experience recommend? It looks straight forward to do. I had thought of selling but this has become too much fun and a challenge now to get it running good. Thanks for any help.

[Bill V in Md]

Check out the following link to a post on make vs buy wiring harness:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105662

[Jim Becker]

Read the thread that Bill pointed you at. For a Cliff's Notes version:

The original and repro harnesses use a different color for each wire. For a '59 Cub, that is 7 or 8 different wires/colors. You don't HAVE TO use different colors. But if you don't, you will eventually probably wish you did. By the time you buy a spool of each color and all the connectors etc. that are required, you may find you don't save that much by doing it yourself. On the other hand, making a harness is not really difficult and can be a satisfying part of a restoration. You may like doing it better than some of the other parts of a restoration.

If you decide to do it yourself, I suggest you remove the existing one and stretch it out on a work surface to get the needed lengths and configuration for the harness.

[Eugene]

You may find you don't save that much by doing it yourself.

True.

If you frequently do small voltage (6 thru 120 volt) electrical repairs on equipment, then go for it. I purchase spools of different color and gauges wire and different styles terminal ends in larger quantities. There are good values on Amazon and Amazpn Prime.

[Jose Wales]

Looking at the diagram it is different from mine (59 model 12volt) I have 3 wires coming off the coil and 3 on the starter switch, need to run them down. What is the BAT circle in the upper right corner? Should I use only stranded copper wire? Amazon has aluminum copper coated also. Thanks guys, I am sure I will have more questions. Will probably re-wire it, did a 59 chevy that burnt most of the wiring and could not afford to get it fixed so wired it one wire at a time, had a bunch of switches and two lights that connected to each plug that lit when the plug fired, looked kind of good.

[Glen]

Hi,
A 1959 Cub was originally 6 volts, positive ground.

If the Cub has been changed to 12 volts, and has a Delco or other brand alternator, the original wiring harness has a wire you can't use, and don't need.
It would be the L wire from the original 6 volt voltage regulator to the light switch.

Below is a wiring diagram for a 12 volt system with 3 wire alt.
They have said if you have a 1 wire alt, to disregard the wires going to posts 1 and 2 on the side of the alt.
It doesn't show the light wires.

If it has a 12 volt generator, then it has different wiring than the diagram below has.

[Gary Dotson]

I've made harnesses for several tractors, mostly modified or ones that harnesses were not available for. For me, it's not difficult but I do a fair amount of electrical work and have supplies of wire and terminals on hand. If you don't you may find that it's not the bargain you thought it would be. If you enjoy doing electrical, that may influence your decision. I enjoy it, some people don't. A home made harness probably won't look as good as one from the quality suppliers so that may or may not factor in.
Use only stranded copper wire!

[Bill V in Md]

Looking at the diagram it is different from mine (59 model 12volt) I have 3 wires coming off the coil and 3 on the starter switch, need to run them down. What is the BAT circle in the upper right corner?

The BAT circle denotes the BAT (battery) terminal on the alternator.

[Jose Wales]

Thanks guys, I am going to take the hood off and see where the extra wires go. There are 3 wires plus the positive wire from the battery on the starter and I see 2 wires on the plus side of the coil and one negative. There are 2 wires from the distributor to the coil. a positive and a negative. I have a lot of colored solid copper in 10 and 12 AWG would that be ok to use as I have more than enough to do the job.

[Eugene]

I have a lot of colored solid copper in 10 and 12 AWG would that be ok to use as I have more than enough to do the job.

No. You need multi-strand copper wire. The multi-strand wire is easier to work with, more flexible. Your 10/12 gauge wire is larger than needed for some locations.

[Jose Wales]

Thanks Eugene, I just did a lot or research on the net and you are right solid should not be used in autos/tractors due to the flexibility needed.

[Cubfriend]

10-4 on the stranded wire. Solid wire is not as flexible so on a vehicle that vibrates, you need the stranded wire so it can flex without breaking.

[Gary Dotson]

Your coil / dist. wiring sounds like you have electronic ignition, do you? Your layout in that area would be proper for that. It won't be included in any of the diagrams you find.

[Jose Wales]

This may sound stupid but I have not had the distributor cap off, never thought about it but will check it in a while. Took the hood off today and there are about 8 wires that go nowhere after I separated the harness. It is quite a mess. . A lot of the wires are original and mixed in with newer repairs and the 12 volt conversion it looks like. Darn, just assumed it had points, never thought about it being electronic....Thanks Gary
I did have it running and the engine sounds good but hard to start etc. and after looking at the condition of the wiring it needs to be redone. Hope I can get it right.


COIL; One wire to switch, one from coil positive to Dist, one from coil negative to Dist.

Starter Switch; One wire to Battery positive, one to ignition switch, one to alternator, one to Amp Meter,
I have a one wire 12 volt alternator.

Will check the dist for electronic tomorrow, have to stop today. Thanks again

[Gary Dotson]

Let me guess! Red wire from pos. coil post, black wire from coil neg. post, both entering the dist. through a grommet instead of connecting to a threaded post. pop the cap and peek in, I don't think you'll find any points. It sounds like your alternator is wired directly to the battery instead of going through the ammeter. It will work that way but will not show charge on the meter. There are a couple other things that are not according the diagram, might just want to start over.