1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

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DON4CUB
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1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby DON4CUB » Wed Dec 09, 2020 4:04 pm

I have a 1957 Farmall Cub that has been sitting under my shed for about 10 years.I am looking for a mechanic in the middle/east tn area that might be interested in getting it up and running.I am planting strawberries and want to use it for cultivating.Any ideas of where to look for someone(other than IH dealer)? Thanks.

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Eugene » Wed Dec 09, 2020 4:09 pm

Welcome.

10 years sitting. Unknown problems. Probably much less expensive, and faster, to purchase a used tractor in work ready condition than to get the Cub "up and running".
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Peter Person » Wed Dec 09, 2020 5:33 pm

Don,
Welcome to the forum.
I have a 1957 Farmall Cub as well - the best looking Cub, in my opinion.
The best thing you can do right now is read through the Owners Manual. If you don't have one, post one more time and you can access any of the PDF Manuals on this site. Top left of the site is a tab: Quick Links. Scroll down and click on PDF Manuals. Note; if you're using your phone, you may have to landscape the screen to see all the options.

Having sat for 10 years, things are pretty dry inside the engine. The transmission is probably filled with water due to condensation.
If you have a hand crank, is the engine loose, that is, does it spin with the hand crank?
Look inside the fuel tank to see how "bad" it is.
The carburetor probably needs a good cleaning and is not that difficult. Be careful when separating the two halves to pull it straight apart. Don't use Tractor Supply carburetor parts - they're junk!

These are really easy to work on, so don't be afraid to tackle things yourself.

Pictures, Pictures, Pictures!!

Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby k hutchins » Thu Dec 10, 2020 7:11 pm

You're tapped in to the best source of Cub knowledge going.
If you can use a wrench, turn a screwdriver, and have basic mechanical knowledge you can do most anything on the Cub with the help of the people here. I know first hand.

Good luck
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Eugene » Thu Dec 10, 2020 8:16 pm

The least expensive, not the fastest, place to have your Cub worked on, would be a State Technical College or a high school with AG or mechanics courses.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Indy4570 » Fri Dec 11, 2020 3:52 pm

I have thought about offering a cub or cubs to somebody to come and get a few running for me :P
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better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...( YES this includes CUBS! )

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Clemsonfor » Fri Dec 11, 2020 5:09 pm

Eugene wrote:Welcome.

10 years sitting. Unknown problems. Probably much less expensive, and faster, to purchase a used tractor in work ready condition than to get the Cub "up and running".

Maybe not, especially if it's under a shed and was parked running. Possible you could get out under $100. Change fluids and a tune up, maybe even just plugs or points?? After some new fuel of course.

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby CapeCodCubs » Fri Dec 11, 2020 9:38 pm

Eugene wrote:The least expensive, not the fastest, place to have your Cub worked on, would be a State Technical College or a high school with AG or mechanics courses.


Absolutely, AG students at our local school use a tractor or implement as a half year project and get graded on their work. Then there is an open house. I kind of forgot about that. Good idea
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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Dec 11, 2020 10:48 pm

CapeCodCubs wrote:
Eugene wrote:The least expensive, not the fastest, place to have your Cub worked on, would be a State Technical College or a high school with AG or mechanics courses.


Absolutely, AG students at our local school use a tractor or implement as a half year project and get graded on their work. Then there is an open house. I kind of forgot about that. Good idea

Maybe any other year. However, with this year's situation you may not find a school that will take it on. They often take these projects on as a group project. There aren't many group activities at present.

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Eugene » Fri Dec 11, 2020 11:34 pm

Clemsonfor wrote:Maybe not, especially if it's under a shed and was parked running. Possible you could get out under $100.
Original poster was asking about a mechanic. Reason unknown.

Local independent mechanic would probably charge $50- or more an hour for shop time.

Original poster said the tractor had been sitting for 10 years. $400 to $500- parts tractor? Reason tractor was not operated in 10 years?

Jim Becker wrote:
CapeCodCubs wrote:
Eugene wrote:The least expensive, not the fastest, place to have your Cub worked on, would be a State Technical College or a high school with AG or mechanics courses.
Absolutely, AG students at our local school use a tractor or implement as a half year project and get graded on their work. Then there is an open house. I kind of forgot about that. Good idea
Maybe any other year. However, with this year's situation you may not find a school that will take it on. They often take these projects on as a group project. There aren't many group activities at present.
If it's like the local schools. A period of time classes conducted with at home video classes. Then some in school classes, then back to videos.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Nelson 634 » Sat Dec 12, 2020 12:42 am

The world is a different place. Seems nothing is the same any more.

That having been said, I've read about many cubs being save by someone who never thought they could. Read the forum. There are many good threads here to help. There are also videos which can be helpful on the internet. Caution : Not all videos are the same some good some..............not good. Bottom line. It doesn't run. Go for it. Their itching to help you here. All you have to do is ask.
Walter

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Jim in SC » Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:35 am

Try putting your mechanic needs on Facebook Marketplace or CL. Might work.
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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Clemsonfor » Sat Dec 12, 2020 8:10 am

Eugene wrote:
Clemsonfor wrote:Maybe not, especially if it's under a shed and was parked running. Possible you could get out under $100.
Original poster was asking about a mechanic. Reason unknown.

Local independent mechanic would probably charge $50- or more an hour for shop time.

Original poster said the tractor had been sitting for 10 years. $400 to $500- parts tractor? Reason tractor was not operated in 10 years?

Jim Becker wrote:
CapeCodCubs wrote:Absolutely, AG students at our local school use a tractor or implement as a half year project and get graded on their work. Then there is an open house. I kind of forgot about that. Good idea
Maybe any other year. However, with this year's situation you may not find a school that will take it on. They often take these projects on as a group project. There aren't many group activities at present.
If it's like the local schools. A period of time classes conducted with at home video classes. Then some in school classes, then back to videos.

Your right paying a mechanic it could possibly be cheaper to buy a running cub. If one were to do it themself if they have any mechanical ability my statement stands.

It seems as if we have lost the OP anyway

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby DON4CUB » Sat Dec 12, 2020 9:48 am

Thanks for all of the replies.It was running when I last used it.I bought a set of cultivators for it after I parked it with the intention of swapping the mower out.I had planned on using the cub to just cultivate my 2 acre bean field,but never got back to it-more important projects on the farm kept popping up.I teach at a high school with a good ag shop-they cannot do any projects due to COVID.I tried the local vocational college-same thing.I may try to find some time this winter to work on it.I was just trying to outsource some of my projects that are not as much of an emergency as the others.I am currently trying to repair/replace my square baler for the upcoming season.I have been round baling for the last 15 years and have decided to go back to squares.I am planting a 1 acre strawberry patch in the spring and that has peaked my interest in the cub for cultivating.My grandfather had a Super "A" when I was little.I cultivated his tobacco with it-always loved the "cultivision"-seems the best way to see the row-I hate turning back to look.I will try and send pix when I get a chance.Thanks for the info!

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Re: 1957 Farmall Cub Mechanic in Tennessee

Postby Glen » Sat Dec 12, 2020 9:27 pm

Hi,
If the Cub has been sitting 10 years, you probably need to prime the engine oil pump. The pump can lose it's prime sitting, and if it won't suck up oil from the oil pan, there is no oil pressure, or oil circulation.
Below is a post I made about priming the oil pump, it is part way down page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

If the Cub won't run, here is some info.

If you want to try working on it yourself, first you could test the spark in the wires going to the spark plugs, and see if it has spark.
Pull the center wire out of the Battery Ignition unit cap, and hold it by the insulation with the end 1/4" from a bare place on the engine. Put the transmission in neutral, turn the ignition to on, run the starter, and watch the spark, it should be strong and blue jumping a 1/4" gap.
If it is yellow, it is weak and needs improving. A weak spark can cause hard starting, or the engine may not run.
The battery should be fully charged for the test.

If it has a weak spark, or no spark, I would replace the points and condenser 1st, it is a good place to begin. They need to be good.

The original coil on Cubs is commonly a problem, if there is a weak spark.
The coils can quit, or have a weak spark, when they get old.
TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has new points, condenser, and coil for it.
Below is a listing for points and condenser, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

After you get it to run, the Cub service manual says to check the timing using a timing light.


The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1955 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1, the index begins on page 79.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 21.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1955, and 1957 Cub originally had.
It shows the points and condenser in the Battery Ignition unit on page 41.
The points get old and burned from use, they have to be good for the engine to start and run good.
Besides the points being good, they need the opening gap set correctly.

Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
They have said on here that IH didn't make a new manual every year.

The Touch Control fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

Page 29 is gone from the manual, so there is no info about checking and changing the final drive oils, steering gear oil, and other things.
Below are 2 pages from the manual before it, the missing info is on them, beginning at number 24. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-19.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-20.jpg


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