cub update & ?

[Pembroke]

I found that I had a meter to check alternator output--battery not running read 12.25, while running it would read 14.25 for a couple of seconds and then go to 15.-- for a couple seconds and then back to 12.25. This is a one wire alternator system 12V battery.
I said in a previous topic that the amp meter never moved no matter what. I WAS WRONG. The hand moves to the neg side (0-30 gauge)( sets on 3) when pull out the start/stop switch. While running the hand never moves from the neg side. Have i got a wire on the amp meter on the wrong side or what?
In previous topic talked about oil leak at rear of oil pan. Removed the half moon cover and the bolts to the rear of oil pan are really tight. I looked with light up there and saw bubble like at rear of pan and then oil drop comes down. It takes a while for all this to start happening, has to be running pretty hot before starts dripping. Question: remove oil pan and start over with new gasket?
Thanks in advance for all replies and info. Pembroke

[Dale Finch]

I don't remember your earlier post, but this could be your rear seal leaking. You can replace your rear seal with one that has been remachined by Tim Talleur. Of course, that requires splitting the tractor! CubFest time!

I think Tim (tst) has an ad in the VINE section.

[k hutchins]

If you're certain the leak is coming from the pan and not the rear seal, then yes l could drop the pan, make sure it isn't warped or distorted, then reinstall with a new gasket. See if that solves the problem. Easier to do that than splitting the tractor, especially if you're sure it's not the rear seal leaking.

[Gary Dotson]

Is your meter digital or analog? It sounds like the behavior of most digital meters, responding to the electrical noise old tractors generate. On the oil leak, it's probably the rear main seal.