Just picked up a 1974

[Crimson Tim]

I just had the good fortune to pick up a 1974 Cub. It is a non-runner, but looks great from 10’ away. Closer to, there are a few foibles, but I don’t think it will take much to get it going. Engine is free. There are a few surprises here and there, like a lot of fastener substitutions, washer spacers, and things like all the wire ties/cotter pins securing the throttle to governor to carb linkage are missing. But then, that’s the fun of a new tractor, right? The detective work of tracking down the random things that might be awry and setting them right?

I haven’t had a chance to do much with it yet except look over it. The fuel that is in it is obviously stale, so changing that out and cleaning the fuel system will be the first step. And priming the oil pump, as it has sat for a while. Then we will go from there.

Are those the right front tires? They look enormous to me. But then the Cubs I already have have an odd assortment of trailer, car and bicycle tires, so I’m sure my eye is off. Not really bicycle tires, but the 3”x12” tires from the 1951 do look tiny.

When did IH switch to the Zenith? I would have though it was before this, but this is clearly the smaller, older style manifold. I did a search this morning, but didn’t find that info.

There’s an actual tool box included (not mounted, but first I’ve seen in person), no battery box, custom PTO and choke levers. PTO does feel like it functions ok.

Is this the ignition system a ‘74 should have? These look like factory bits, but they probably didn’t come from the factory sticking out the side of the tractor, if I had to guess.

Generally, great condition, but was surprised to see some rust through on the hood.

[Crimson Tim]

What’s this? Some sort of repair or reinforcement on the governor arm? That’s curious. Will keep an eye on that to see how it behaves and might just replace it and the spring as a matter of course.

Glad I noticed that before I started driving this around. It’s about ready to drop the tie rods off.




All in all, I am super pleased. I was looking for a mower that could handle some heavier stuff than the woods 59 I currently have, and this one is in great condition and has both the overrunning clutch and one brake that functions very well. What luxury! I will finally be able to stop shorter than a fully laden locomotive!

It came with headlights that are not Cub lights, but they are Cub-ish. Not sure yet if I will mount those or if I will look for the right ones to put on there. I feel a Cub is not fully dressed without his googly eye stalks on there.

[BSR]

They switched to Zenith Carb in mid year of 1975. When they went to the LONGSTRIPE.

[Peter Person]

Tim,
South Florida salty air? A few hurricanes in its' life?

[Glen]

Hi,
Nice looking Cub.

You didn't say the size of the front tires. It looks like it has the 4 x 15" wheels and tires.
They were available extra cost when it was new.
They are shown in the 1965 Cub operator's manual.
The wheels look like the original style.

4 x 12" was standard. Probably some of your other Cubs have those.

Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual showing the front tire sizes, in the table at the lower right of the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-49.jpg

A 1974 Cub still had the IH carburetor.
IH changed to the Zenith at Cub serial number 248125, the first Longstripe Cub.

The ignition parts you asked about look original, from what I can see in the pic.
It should have a Battery Ignition unit, and the voltage regulator is correct, on the mounting plate.
The wiring is hanging down, and not in the clips under the edge of the hood.

Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual, showing the 12 volt electrical system with the hood off, in the upper pic on the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-26.jpg

The manual cover has a pic of a Cub, showing the wiring in the right routing, none is hanging down.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... ge-001.jpg

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the wiring routing for a 1974 Cub, if you need it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 008-35.jpg

[Clemsonfor]

That wire that's looped way outside like that can be routed under that regulator so that it doesn't loop like that. The route it takes in that direction will make it point out like that.

[Crimson Tim]

Tim,
South Florida salty air? A few hurricanes in its' life?

Hurricanes, definitely, though I think it has lived inside for the most part. I picked it up from the first owner, or maybe son of first owner is more accurate. He’s inland of Tampa now, but I think he said he’s from Homestead, so the salt air is definitely a possibility. The salt is not at all bad in the middle where I am, but it is brutal on the coast.

You didn't say the size of the front tires. It looks like it has the 4 x 15" wheels and tires.


IH changed to the Zenith at Cub serial number 248125, the first Longstripe Cub.

The ignition parts you asked about look original, from what I can see in the pic.
It should have a Battery Ignition unit, and the voltage regulator is correct, on the mounting plate.
The wiring is hanging down, and not in the clips under the edge of the hood.

I haven’t checked the label, yet, but I bet you are right about the tires.

Serial number is 243-something, if I recall. The engine date code was X, which is right for ‘74.

From some angles, it looks like the coil and regulator are pretty exposed out the side of the hood. From other angles, it looks not all that odd. It sounds like it’s just the loose wires making it look worse than it actually is. So that should mean less to correct.

Thanks for your input!

[Crimson Tim]

Yes, you were right on the front wheels: 4”x15”.

A couple other fun things about this one.
There is both a brand spanking new wiring harness and also lots of old wires cut off.

The key ignition switch guts fell out when I turned the key the first time. I *think* all bits are present, but I haven’t figured out the correct orientation of the spring and other things in there that will allow it to function right even if I get it crimped back together solidly. If anybody has any guidance on that, it would be nice to reassemble this one, otherwise, I’ll just buy one.

This Cub was obviously switched from the IH carb to the Zenith. If you push the oil filler cap in all the way, it hits the carb. So I don’t know if it *is* in all the way. Maybe if I loosen and retighten the bolts to the manifold, I can get a little more room. If that’s not enough clearance, I guess the only other option is to bend the oil filler tube away?

Still have to clean out the fuel system. The gas that’s still in there looks and smells plenty stale.

I got a better oil can, so have the perfect tool for priming the oil pump now. I have hopes of being able to try starting at some point over the holidays.

[Jim Becker]

. . . This Cub was obviously switched from the IH carb to the Zenith. If you push the oil filler cap in all the way, it hits the carb. . . .

That was a pretty tight fit, even on the Cubs that came with the Zenith carb. The tube for the oil filler has a bend in it that should turn towards vertical. It it is turned a little to the left, it gets closer to the carb. You might see if you can turn yours a little to the right and see if that picks up enough clearance to put the cap on.

[Don McCombs]

Photo courtesy TM Tractor Parts

It’s rather thin tubing. Be careful not to crush or crimp it while rotating.

[Crimson Tim]

Almost a year later (where does the time go?!), and I am finally getting some time to work on this tractor.
Actually, my hand was forced. The woods 59 on my working Cub locked up a bearing, so I have nothing to mow with. In high summer. In Florida. I need to either get this Cub running or swap the mowers before the grass gets any deeper.

I’ve got a new switch in there, and fixed some wiring issues, so I think I’m good there now.

The verdict so far: no spark. Anywhere, even right up to the coil. I was trying to collect parts and tools before the weekend, and Napa let me down. I did get a coil (Echlin IC14), but they did not have a condenser or points file. The points installed look good, but I know they can glaze over from sitting. I did try to clean them with some heavy paper, but didn’t get anywhere with that.
Is there anything special about a points file other than the small size? Is there any reason I can’t just pull the points and file them with a standard flat hand file?

I’ve also heard new points can have a coating that interferes with function. If I put the new ones in, should I hit those with a file or clean them with something? Acetone? What about the rotor?

The only place I could find a condenser on short notice was actually Tractor Supply. I remember reading on here that some parts from TSC are consistently junk and not even bothering with, while others are fine. I don’t remember *which* parts were troublesome. Of course, when I did a search on here, I couldn’t find much,. Just a single mention of a carb rebuild kit being a problem. So before I open this TSC ignition kit, was this the one with junk that I should just return, or was it something else people were having trouble with?

Is there a way to test coil and condenser to see if they are good or bad, or should I just replace everything?
After it’s running, I can swap old parts back in one at a time to see if they are worth saving as known-good spares, I suppose.

I find the rust on this Cub strange. it’s probably due to poor prep work for poor repainting. So many parts of this tractor really look quite good and rust-free, but then right next to that will be a patch of badly blistered paint and rust-through. On the same part, so it’s not from swapping parts. Definitely not the even veneer of weathering I’m used to.

[Jim Becker]

The biggest problem part from TSC seems to be the carb kit. Second place is probably the strainer and sediment bowl assembly for under the fuel tank. I haven't seen much complaint about the other parts they have. As with many of the parts available today, TSC is only one seller of many that are selling identical parts.

Note your tune up kit says "VENDOR# ATK5BIR". Try a google search for "ATK5BIR" and see how many places sell the identical package (with a different paper insert).

Once removed, you should be able to clean up your points with any flat file. Just go gently to only remove a minimum of material and maintain a square face. If your new points come with a coating, something like acetone on a rag would probably take it off. If not coated, they may have some oxidation to remove, which might respond better to a very light touch with a file. I am working from a stash of old stock parts and only give them a wipe with a clean cloth. That seems to work for me, but may not be adequate for newer import parts.

There are procedures and equipment for testing coils and condensers. For most people, the easiest way to test them is to try running them.

[Glen]

Hi,
I've seen pics on here of yellow and white Cubs that have rust patches, I think it is sort of common for them.
Some are big patches, several inches across.

Some of them might start from where someone scratched the paint years before, down through it, then the Cub sits outside in the rain, and rust begins, the rust spreads, and the paint comes loose and falls off. Just a guess.

[Greenthumbfarms]

The white paint on cubs never seemed as durable as red to me. My yellow and white cub had the radiator boil over twice in a previous life and it permanently scarred the paint.

[Crimson Tim]

Can someone remind me where the alternative locations are for priming the oil pump? The cap on the oil filter seems to be glued down hard. I don’t think I can get it off without destroying the gasket, and I do not have any spares on hand.

On the plus side, the oil seems to be brand new. It must have been changed since it last ran.

Also, the hydraulics appear to be in good shape. It’s been sitting with the mower deck up for at least a year. I thought it was hanging on a passive support chain, but no, that wasn’t attached. Just the hydraulics. When I cranked it a bit to look for spark, the deck moved down readily.