Time for TLC on Workhorse

[k hutchins]

Up date

Finally got the replacement bearings this past week and l was able to put some time in.
As planned l replaced the old standard journal bearings with new standard sized bearings. I did a plastigage check and the new bearings brought it back within specks at .003. I also replaced all four of the piston arm bearings with new standard sized bearings.
I had watched a couple different videos on bearing replacement and each one stressed that you have to put the numbers on the keepers facing the right direction when putting it back in place. However mine didn't have any numbers. Each one had a different letter stamped into it, and then it had a filed notch on the corner. One notch for #1, two notches for #2, and so on.

I've never heard this before on any of the videos. Maybe all of you more experienced people have seen it, but l was surprised. A shout out to Bob McCarty, thanks for the replacement lock nuts.

After completing the bearings, l reinstalled the oil screen and siphon then reinstalled the pan with a new gasket. I tried to crisscross my tightening pattern along the sides first and did it in 3 stages. First just snug, then added a quarter turn, then back through again for another quarter turn. I also did opposite corners on the pulley end then center, again in three stages. Hopefully it's tight without being too tight.

I then flipped it in the stand and after doing some more clean up on the backside of the front end put the front and engine back together. I reattached my hoist to the top of the block and removed the stand.
I then installed the new rear seal that l received back from tst (thank you sir), since l couldn't find a torque for those bolts, l again went in increments and used a criss cross pattern.

After that l proceeded on to the flywheel, new clutch plate, and clutch.

It's now 2/3s back together. I'm pleased so far. Still keeping my fingers crossed that l haven't caused problems, as it ran great before, it just had a major oil leak.

Until next time
Thank you everyone who has followed along and offered advice
Hutch

[Gary Dotson]

As to the notches you found, the last person to work on that engine found no stamped numbers and didn't have a set of number stamps, so he used file notches. No problem, most people make punch marks, in that situation, I certainly have! Now I have number stamps.

[k hutchins]

Gary

It must have been at the factory as this tractor has never been rebuilt before. Besides, each one had a different letter stamped into it. I just found it interesting. I'm looking for numbers and find letters. I didn't notice the notches until l was working #4. It had 4 notches, then l pulled #1 and it had one notch. After completing #1 and taking pics, l cranked it to double check 2 & 3 and found corresponding notches on them.

[Eugene]

I don't think the letters and notches were done at the IH factor. Most likely during one or more engine rebuilds.

[ricky racer]

Somebody may have had it apart doing the same thing you are doing years ago. That would account for the notches, I would guess.

[k hutchins]

From the responses, l'm guessing no one else has run across this on an unrebuilt '48.

I suppose the original owner might have done something before 1960, but it's been in my family since then. It came with the house my folks bought from his widow.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that the new crankshaft bearings improved the clearances.

The connecting rods and caps I have seen have numbers stamped into them. I haven't seen them the way yours is, I think.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing how they look with numbers. Read to the right of the upper pic also.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-35.jpg

[Eugene]

The connecting rods and caps I have seen have numbers stamped into them. I've not seen them the way yours is. I don't know if the letters are from IH or not.

Letters on connecting rod caps, not IH factory. Factories do manufacturing and assembly only one way, even the rework sections.

Reason, there are a number of steps and quite a number of individuals involved in assembling a factor built engine. All marks will be the same so that the 10th individual along the assembly line knows what the marks indicate.

If there are no marks, engine rebuilders will use what ever is on hand to indicate part location.

[Jim Becker]

Replacement rods distributed through the regular channel would not have a number stamped as they are not specific to any one cylinder. However, the rod and cap is a matched pair that needs to remain together. It is possible that rods destined to be replacements got some sort of marking to indicate they were together. MAYBE the factory used letters for that purpose. Something in the back of my mind says I remember that rather than having made it up.

[k hutchins]

Thanks Jim, l was beginning to think l had some type of mutant parts. As l said, l know it wasn't rebuilt in the last 60 yrs, but the 12 before that l can't be certain.

Maybe someone else with an "original" '47 or '48 will be able to verify my findings sometime.
At this point it doesn't really matter, l was just surprised to find letters and notches where l expected to find numbers.

[Clemsonfor]

If what Jim was saying is true that the factory may have used parts that were not numbered as replacements maybe that tractor was in on a warranty for catastrophic failure. Or maybe just somehow the engine needed work those first 10 years...owner ran it out of oil, it leaked all out etc and got parts replaced?

[tst]

I have taken apart many engines and found many of the early engines had no markings from the factory, so I stamp them before taking them apart, main caps also no markings

[k hutchins]

Well, it's almost back together.

Reistalled, head, fan, air cleaner, generator and mag.

Refilled with fresh fluids and new filter.

Made and installed new wire harness, it still had the original with lots of black tape here and there. One thing l found is that on my generator, voltage regulator wiring, l have all three terminals wired in. Short jumper from F tab to F stud on generator, then the long wire from F stud to the switch. Short jumper form A stud to Gen tab. Then the long wire from the single tab to the ammeter.
Every diagram l've seen, none has the jumper from F to F.
Only thing left is to remount the hood and see if l messed it up or not. On another day.

Your thoughts and input are always appreciated.

[Jim Becker]

. . . Short jumper from F tab to F stud on generator, then the long wire from F stud to the switch. . . . Every diagram l've seen, none has the jumper from F to F. . . .

That short jumper wasn't used on Cubs with the cut-out style systems, as they typically had lights. A cut-out system without lights did use one. (They had no light switch!) The jumper was used with a full voltage regulator system as the regulator controlled the charging rate. If you have both a jumper and the light switch commented to the F stud, the "low" charge rate will be higher than it would normally be.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you are putting it together again.

Hopefully you put sealer on the threads of the head bolts, they go into the engine water jacket.
Many people on here have said they had leaks from the head without putting sealer on the bolt threads.

The Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket that I posted on page 2 of your post works good for head bolts.

I would prime the oil pump before running the engine, it might not suck up oil from the oil pan after being apart. The new bearings need oil so they aren't damaged.
I don't know if you have read how to do it on here, it is easy to do. Remove the oil filter cover, and oil filter, and pump motor oil into the small hole in the block near the top of the housing, until the passages are full, and oil runs out the hole.
I use a pump oil can. It might take more than 1 filling of the oil can to fill the passages in the engine.
Put the oil filter and cover on before running the engine.