Mystery Generator?

[Jim in SC]

I'm continuing to get my '59 Cub ready for a first start attempt since getting it a week ago. I still have at least a week to go before trying that, but I have a question for y'all:

While doing some of the re-wiring, I noticed that the generator doesn't appear to be a Delco Remy. Hmmm. It certainly is not like the one on my H or like the one on my previous Cub. There is no data plate and no apparent holes where one might have been in the past. It's shape is different also. It does have some numbers stamped in it though: 1100531 8217 90012 C4038 CTP G

I recognize the numbers 1100531 as a 6 volt generator. I don't recognize the other numbers.. Any help on that? I did Google the numbers and came up with a link to a generator that is a reman that pretty much looks like the one I have. Here's that link:

https://www.obbstartersandalternators.c ... -4826.html


Here are two pictures of my "mystery generator." What's everyone think?

[Rick Spivey]

Your link has a reference to Delco in the description, and further down says it fits the C-60 engine from 54-57. So it must be correct for the application, someone else will maybe know if anyone other than Delco made these for the Cub.

[Jim in SC]

Your link has a reference to Delco in the description, and further down says it fits the C-60 engine from 54-57. So it must be correct for the application, someone else will maybe know if anyone other than Delco made these for the Cub.

Good point, Rick. Thanks. It just threw me off a bit that it doesn't have a data plate on it (and never has, as far as I can see). The yellow daub of paint also tells me that it is probably either a reman or a recycle. I don't know at this point if it will even spin or generate electricity. I guess I'll find out in a week or two...

[Stanton]

Field or bench test it. This is for a 6V positive ground system.

Field test:

1. Leave generator on tractor. Remove belt.
2. Run a jumper wire from a good ground to the "F" post.
3. Touch a second jumper wire from the "hot" or negative battery post to the "A" post on the generator.
4. Generator should motor or spin the pulley.
5. Generator should be good. Actual electrical output will be controlled by the condition of the brushes and communicator/armature.

Video of field test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6ZXPXcfDo8


Bench test:

1. Mount generator on bench with C-clamp.
2. Run a jumper wire from a good 6V battery to the generator frame.
3. Run a second jumper wire from the frame to the "F" post.
4. Run another jumper wire from the "hot" or negative battery post to the "A" post on the generator.
5. Generator should motor or spin the pulley.
6. Momentarily remove the second jumper from the "F" post and the pulley should increase in speed. *WARNING* Do not allow generator to spin at this higher speed for more than a couple seconds!
7. Generator should be good. Actual electrical output will be controlled by the condition of the brushes and communicator/armature.

Video of bench test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3oyMEEVZ2M

[Jim in SC]

Field or bench test it. This is for a 6V positive ground system.

Field test:

1. Leave generator on tractor. Remove belt.
2. Run a jumper wire from a good ground to the "F" post.
3. Touch a second jumper wire from the "hot" or negative battery post to the "A" post on the generator.
4. Generator should motor or spin the pulley.
5. Generator should be good. Actual electrical output will be controlled by the condition of the brushes and communicator/armature.

Video of field test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6ZXPXcfDo8


Bench test:

1. Mount generator on bench with C-clamp.
2. Run a jumper wire from a good 6V battery to the generator frame.
3. Run a second jumper wire from the frame to the "F" post.
4. Run another jumper wire from the "hot" or negative battery post to the "A" post on the generator.
5. Generator should motor or spin the pulley.
6. Momentarily remove the second jumper from the "F" post and the pulley should increase in speed. *WARNING* Do not allow generator to spin at this higher speed for more than a couple seconds!
7. Generator should be good. Actual electrical output will be controlled by the condition of the brushes and communicator/armature.

Video of bench test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3oyMEEVZ2M

Thanks Stanton. Good advice. I believe I'll field test it today, weather permitting. I'll update later. Any thoughts on it's manufacturer? Delco?

[Jim in SC]

Field or bench test it. This is for a 6V positive ground system.

Field test:

1. Leave generator on tractor. Remove belt.
2. Run a jumper wire from a good ground to the "F" post.
3. Touch a second jumper wire from the "hot" or negative battery post to the "A" post on the generator.
4. Generator should motor or spin the pulley.
5. Generator should be good. Actual electrical output will be controlled by the condition of the brushes and communicator/armature.

Video of field test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6ZXPXcfDo8


Bench test:

1. Mount generator on bench with C-clamp.
2. Run a jumper wire from a good 6V battery to the generator frame.
3. Run a second jumper wire from the frame to the "F" post.
4. Run another jumper wire from the "hot" or negative battery post to the "A" post on the generator.
5. Generator should motor or spin the pulley.
6. Momentarily remove the second jumper from the "F" post and the pulley should increase in speed. *WARNING* Do not allow generator to spin at this higher speed for more than a couple seconds!
7. Generator should be good. Actual electrical output will be controlled by the condition of the brushes and communicator/armature.

Video of bench test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3oyMEEVZ2M

Thanks Stanton. Good advice. I believe I'll field test it today, weather permitting. I'll update later. Any thoughts on it's manufacturer? Delco?

Okay, well that answered a question I wasn't anticipating...generator won't turn. Yep, I checked and double checked the wiring for the field test as described. I even mimicked the test on another tractor, which worked. Nothing on this generator though. Dang.

Okay - new question: can I still start and run the tractor with an inop generator? Pretty sure I can, at least I hope so. $$$ is getting tight on this one right now and I can't really spring for a reman generator at this point. The Cub isn't ready for a start just yet, but it's getting close. What say you?

[Stanton]

Sure you can run a tractor w/o a working generator. If it's a battery distributor, then a working battery is a must. If a magneto, then no battery required (for crank start).

Delco-Remy made many types of generators for many different tractor brands. Perhaps yours is one from different tractor manufacturer and put on this Cub.

BTW: I just completed a generator rebuild for a 6V system for my Farmall AV. Appears to be working properly. I used a blown out gen case from a couple generators I bought at a farm auction years ago. Ordered a new kit from Brillman's, one of our sponsors.

[Jim in SC]

Sure you can run a tractor w/o a working generator. If it's a battery distributor, then a working battery is a must. If a magneto, then no battery required (for crank start).

Delco-Remy made many types of generators for many different tractor brands. Perhaps yours is one from different tractor manufacturer and put on this Cub.

BTW: I just completed a generator rebuild for a 6V system for my Farmall AV. Appears to be working properly. I used a blown out gen case from a couple generators I bought at a farm auction years ago. Ordered a new kit from Brillman's, one of our sponsors.

I thought it would work w/o a working generator, but wanted confirmation. It is a battery distributor. I'll just keep plugging along on getting it started, then worry about the generator. I've got a very good charger, so that's not a problem for a while. Thanks for the advice!

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub parts manual says the 1100531 generator was used on Cubs serial numbers 196758, which was during 1956, and above, up to serial number 221293, which was during 1962.
The gen originally used a stamped steel pulley.
The gens before 196758 used a cast pulley.
The gen has a shorter shaft at the front than the older gens, the manual says.

Your gen looks similar to a Delco, but hard to say who made it without being there.

You could remove the band, and see if the brushes look good, and if it looks clean inside, use a light to see in it.

I would connect it to the Cub wiring, and see if it works when you run the engine.

[Eugene]

$$$ is getting tight on this one right now and I can't really spring for a reman generator at this point. The Cub isn't ready for a start just yet, but it's getting close. What say you?

Need to consider the cost of another generator and voltage regulator. Money wise, less expensive to install an alternator.

[Glen]

Hi,
You should prime the engine oil pump before starting the engine, if the Cub has been sitting for some time.
Below is a post I made about it. My post is part way down the page.
The engine pic is not mine, it was posted by Bill, as I remember.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

[Jim in SC]

Hi,
You should prime the engine oil pump before starting the engine, if the Cub has been sitting for some time.
Below is a post I made about it. My post is part way down the page.
The engine pic is not mine, it was posted by Bill, as I remember.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

Thanks for the reminder, Glen. I had a '51 Cub and learned a messy lesson about priming the oil pump - don't start the engine with the oil filter cap off. Yep, I did that. Won't again.