Cub 22 Rock guards

[Robert Cool]

Are they all the same? I have one I broke and want to replace.

[john2189]

I used to get them at TSC. Don’t know if they still have them. Webb Cutting Components would have them.

[tst]

there are different ones and sometimes even if they fit they do not line up to ones you may have now, different manufactuers their own way of doing things

[radioguy41]

A photo of the broken one would help ID what you need.

[Eugene]

Take the broken rock guard and an identical one your nearest tractor dealership. Case/New holland/IH dealership will/should have the correct guard. I have found the correct guards at a Ford dealership with Ford part numbers stamped on the back side.

[v w]

I used to get them at TSC. Don’t know if they still have them. Webb Cutting Components would have them.

They still had them about a year ago. If the guard is near the hole for the rod holding the bar upright a switch may have to be made. The guard is a bit different but I have two installed and they work fine. Vern

[Robert Cool]

TSC has them on the website might get one and try it

[Glen]

Hi,
The guards aren't all the same, some have the bolt going up through the bar, and some have the bolt going down through the bar.
The bars are different for the 2 styles of guards. The bar has countersunk holes for the bolts that go down, and no countersunk holes for the bolts that go up.
The guards should be made for an IH mower, so they fit right.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for guards. This one looks like the Case IH, MC2041 guard, they are heavy duty, and the bolt faces up. I've been using that number for years.
They need modification for use at each end of the bar, the base needs cutting and shaping.
Also where the hold up rod goes through the bar, 2 guards there need the base cut a small amount at an angle.
You could ask them before buying if that is the number on them, I can't read it too well on my computer. Also ask which direction the bolt goes through them.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sm/489fp.htm

[marshall]

I'm realizing that my mower is not cutting well and see that I've replaced a good number of the knives and they are mostly still decent. But it just jammed in hardly any grass to the point that it broke one of the pitman straps and other times the engine is straining and died trying to cut through this nasty invasive we have called Canadian Bedstraw (below) which forms thick beds. The sickle gets jammed with it and then starts ripping it out by the roots which then means getting off the tracker and clearing the sickle.

Just wondering how much the knife guard contributes to the cutting? I have mostly old MB2041s on there and they are smooth with no serrations. Some are twisted but the knives move back and forth smoothly with no binding. My newer MC2041 guards have serrations on them which makes me think I may be needing to replace all the old guards. Just wanted to make sure that the guards contribute to cutting before I drop $100 on new guards hoping that this solves what seems to be a dull sickle bar.

I see Webb is selling MC2041s for $6.49 w/o bolt where TM has them for $9.45 with bolt. I believe I've gotten knives and guards from Case dealers too.
I'm seeing this one at TSC and wonder if its the right one ($7.99). https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... d-g81-0803 - I need to find a solution to replacing the guards that need modification. I don't have grinding tools. Does anyone do this for a fee?
Wondering if anyone has found a difference in quality. This metal certainly takes a beating and I can see wanting the best quality steel for these.

[Stevetractor]

Rebuilding my mower. Sharp and straight guards do make a huge difference. Webb also sells a double guard that will fit. Induction hardened with no ledger plates. Supposed to be really tough. I’m buying a new set for my mower but can’t decide. I like the original look of the single guards but I bet the doubles are much tougher steel.

[Glen]

Hi,
The sharper the knives and ledger plates on the guards are, the better the mower cuts, but it is mostly for grass. If you have plants with big tough stems, you could try taking small cuts at a time, part of the width of the mower.
It's too overloaded if the pitman broke.
A bigger tractor is needed for the heavier grass, and tough plants.

The ledger plates should have some serrations. The ledger plates are replaceable. If the guards are in ok condition, you can replace the ledger plates, and use them more.

Below is the Cub 22 Mower operator's manual, it has lots of info.
It shows about replacing ledger plates on page 9.
They can be replaced using a hammer and punch.
They are held on with 1 rivet on each guard. They can be really tight to remove.
They show using a special tool for installing the new ledger plate and rivet.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

IH was using rivets in the MC2041 guards with a flared bottom end, flared with the special tool in the manual info.
The new MC 2041 guards I bought a few years ago, it looks like they went back to regular rivets, that have no flare.

It is easier to buy new guards, if you don't want to replace the ledger plates.

Stevetractor, I don't see how the double guards with no ledger plates can cut as good as guards with sharp serrated ledger plates. I've never used the double guards, I don't know how they work.

[Stevetractor]

Glen, I’m thinking that too. I think the advantage is no ledgers to get loose or dull. Plus they say the double guards are tougher. The sad part about replacing ledgers is, it’s almost as cheap to buy the whole guard with new ledgers in them. Plus, after years of use they get twisted and bent. You can straighten them carefully but there never true. Also, I think wear plates in good condition are essential too. They help hold the knife square and are reasonable from Webb’s.

[tmays]

There’s quite a bit involved in getting an old sickle mower cutting good. Sharp knives, ledger plates. Also, the register of the mower must correct. Go by the manual. A double or triple end section helps to clear the far end of the bar from clogging

[marshall]

I called up Webbs to find out more about their guards for Cub 22 mowers. Mine is 5' with 19 guards. The service guy, John, told me the double guards (# G-218 DH) were way better for cutting grass than the individual guards (MC 2041) because of the quality of the steel and that the line-up of the guards as a unit will be much less sloppy than what the individual guards tend to create.. It's steel rather than cast iron and the guard has a narrower profile so that it slides through the grass easier, He says based on his personal use that the difference between systems is huge and that unless you are trying to keep a sickle looking vintage for parades, that the double guards are really the way to go for functionality. Overall system replacement cost is not that different.
They sell a kit for rebuilding just guards and plates for $280 (item # 600-524),

I decided to buy a whole kit (item # 301-231) for replacing all the guards, nuts, bolts, plates, and knives for $325. As part of this they will customize the guards for the end of the bar. It will be a bolt-together system rather than involving rivets. Also, I'm hoping for more control of the knife/guard gap which he said should be a max of 20/1000" and easily adjusted with a wrench.

I also saw in the manual that it's important to get the angle of the sickle bar correct with the outer shoe slightly ahead of the inner shoe by an inch or so which isn't something I knew about.

It's an expensive repair but the only thing I use this tractor for is mowing and I could tell that I was really stressing the whole machine with a sickle bar that isn't effectively cutting. I'll post back in a few weeks when I see what the actual results are.

[Clemsonfor]

I can't wait to hear the difference.

I have an on c22 that I want to get freed up and running. I'd love to be able to cut a little grass with it.