30W in touch control?

[lovemachine]

So I definitely have a hydraulic leak. I don't think its leaking into the engine oil, since the dipstick isn't high. I know it's leaking around the pump itself and the touch control block.

I need to change the oil and filter anyway on my cub. Would it be ok to drain the hydraulic fluid now, and fill it with 10w until I can get the pump and TC off and rebuild? I plan on filling it with Hytran then.

I'd like to continue driving the tractor on the property with my boys, so I was hoping the 30W would be fine in the hydraulic system temporarily until I get it fixed right.

Thanks!

[Eugene]

I suggest a Hytran compatable hydraulic fluid or straight 10 weight engine oil. Stay away from the detergent engine oils.

First, hydraulic pump, easy fix most of the time.

[Bob McCarty]

You could also drain the block, remove the pump and cut a gasket and plate to cover the opening where the gear inserts, or buy one from TM: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/735fp.htm

[lovemachine]

I suggest a Hytran compatable hydraulic fluid or straight 10 weight engine oil. Stay away from the detergent engine oils.

First, hydraulic pump, easy fix most of the time.

What about a non-detergent 10w oil?

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a page from your post on June 7, I wrote about finding where the leak is, if it's at the front of the Touch Control block, and how to repair it.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=107786&start=30

TM Tractor has a pump repair kit, it says it is a Case IH part.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

Here is some info about the Touch Control pump.

To remove the pump, you have drain the system first. Remove the filler plug on the Touch Control, then the drain plug. You can run the engine briefly, like the operator's manual says, to empty the tubes.
You have to remove the tubes to remove the pump from the engine.
The tubes have 3 bolts at the upper end, and 2 bolts hold them onto the pump.
There is a gasket at the upper end of the tubes, and 2 o rings at the lower end of the tubes, the gasket and o rings come in the pump rebuild kit from TM Tractor, it showed in their info.

2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.

The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.
It has to have the little tab that goes into the keyway, to prevent the nut from turning. Sometimes the tab breaks off, some people on here have said. If the tab is broken it needs a new lock washer.

Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm

The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.

Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.

Below is a post from the How To section about rebuilding a Touch Control pump.

viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196

When you need to fill the system, below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid.
On the 2nd page, be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.
The system should be filled the last time with the arms in the rear, or down position.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg

Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the pump gear lock washer and nut.

[Eugene]

Straight 10 weight, non-detergent is what I intended.

[lovemachine]

Hi,
Below is a page from your post on June 7, I wrote about finding where the leak is, if it's at the front of the Touch Control block, and how to repair it.

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 6&start=30

TM Tractor has a pump repair kit, it says it is a Case IH part.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

Here is some info about the Touch Control pump.

To remove the pump, you have drain the system first. Remove the filler plug on the Touch Control, then the drain plug. You can run the engine briefly, like the operator's manual says, to empty the tubes.
You have to remove the tubes to remove the pump from the engine.
The tubes have 3 bolts at the upper end, and 2 bolts hold them onto the pump.
There is a gasket at the upper end of the tubes, and 2 o rings at the lower end of the tubes, the gasket and o rings come in the pump rebuild kit from TM Tractor, it showed in their info.

2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.

The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.
It has to have the little tab that goes into the keyway, to prevent the nut from turning. Sometimes the tab breaks off, some people on here have said. If the tab is broken it needs a new lock washer.

Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm

The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.

Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.

Below is a post from the How To section about rebuilding a Touch Control pump.

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 41&t=44196

When you need to fill the system, below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid.
On the 2nd page, be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.
The system should be filled the last time with the arms in the rear, or down position.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg

Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the pump gear lock washer and nut.

Thank you!

[lovemachine]

Straight 10 weight, non-detergent is what I intended.

Thanks!

[tomstractor]

You could use VP J20A oil from TS it is the same as Permatron hyd oil and is only $30 for 5 gallons.

[Jim Becker]

You could use VP J20A oil from TS it is the same as Permatron hyd oil and is only $30 for 5 gallons.

Is that labeled as meeting the required specs? The descriptions (and multiple entries) on TSC's web site makes it unclear. If not, their Traveler "universal" fluid costs a bit more but meets the specs.

[Gary Dotson]

Shop wisely, some of those cheap fluids have a max. operating temp. of 125 deg., although they claim to be Hy-Tran compatible.

[tmays]

Shop wisely, some of those cheap fluids have a max. operating temp. of 125 deg., although they claim to be Hy-Tran compatible.

You could use VP J20A oil from TS it is the same as Permatron hyd oil and is only $30 for 5 gallons.

Is that labeled as meeting the required specs? The descriptions (and multiple entries) on TSC's web site makes it unclear. If not, their Traveler "universal" fluid costs a bit more but meets the specs.

Just happen to be in tsc looking at this. Label says it’s case:Ms 1207 and 1209 compatible. Does not say IH hytran compatible so that’s little confusing. Label also says some of the specifications are no longer deemed active by original equipment manufacturer. And use up to 122 degrees. So yeah, I would shy away from this one. The traveler premium that Jim referred to is what I use. Little more but it is hytran Ms 1207 compatible

[Eugene]

Lovemachine. I read back through your posts. You didn't indicate how many tractors, machines, etc., that you own and work on.

Any way. I purchase lubricants in bulk. Use the same hydraulic fluid, and the same engine oil, in all of the farm machines. Makes things much simpler.

[lovemachine]

Lovemachine. I read back through your posts. You didn't indicate how many tractors, machines, etc., that you own and work on.

Any way. I purchase lubricants in bulk. Use the same hydraulic fluid, and the same engine oil, in all of the farm machines. Makes things much simpler.

This is my first tractor. I recently purchased it, and I’m learning as I go. And having fun as I go

[Jim Becker]

In that case, buy a 2 gallon jug of something that meets the proper specs, like TSC's Traveler Universal fluid. Unless it is leaking by the bucket full, you will probably never use the whole jug and you won't have contaminated the system.