I still say it's worth calling a local shop to see what they will charge you. If you do a youtube search you'll see the cheap valve cutters can make things even worse. The good ones cost more than having the shop do it. If the seats need replaced, they can do that too in the tractor. It's worth a call or a drive to the shop.
It's been a few years since I had valves ground, 2007 to be exact. Back then it cost me $11.50 for the four exhaust seats and $30.00 to have the block machined and seats installed. They refaced the valves for another $20.
valve seat cutter question
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Re: valve seat cutter question
Last edited by ricky racer on Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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Re: valve seat cutter question
Lack of trailer is the biggest hurdle, but i'll call some shops tomorrow. Thanks
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Re: valve seat cutter question
They don’t grind seats they use carbide cutters by hand if there a up to date modern shop.
Maybe you can rent valve seat cutters from a local rental place or pawn shop?
Maybe you can rent valve seat cutters from a local rental place or pawn shop?
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: valve seat cutter question
I have the new way and have been very happy with it
I do not like cheep tools and did not look at the Ebay. When I have purchased cheep tools from India or China (large taps or dies )I have had mixed resullts.
The one thing that almost every cub out there need is a valve job. A good tool makes a difference in speed and accuracy. There is a post in my name on "valve keeps" the documented the valve job I did on a 1949. I got great results
I do not like cheep tools and did not look at the Ebay. When I have purchased cheep tools from India or China (large taps or dies )I have had mixed resullts.
The one thing that almost every cub out there need is a valve job. A good tool makes a difference in speed and accuracy. There is a post in my name on "valve keeps" the documented the valve job I did on a 1949. I got great results
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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Re: valve seat cutter question
Hi,
If you grind valve seats that are pitted too much, the valve will be too low in the seat before the seat is smooth again.
The valve seats, which are part of the block, may need replacing with new seats, if they are pitted too much.
The shop has to cut the block, and install seats in the places they cut to the right size in the block.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing how valves should fit in the seats.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-24.jpg
If you grind valve seats that are pitted too much, the valve will be too low in the seat before the seat is smooth again.
The valve seats, which are part of the block, may need replacing with new seats, if they are pitted too much.
The shop has to cut the block, and install seats in the places they cut to the right size in the block.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing how valves should fit in the seats.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-24.jpg
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Re: valve seat cutter question
Ok, life got in the way and this got put way back on the back burner. I bought a cheap India made cutter and cleaned up the seats. They cleaned up pretty nice surprisingly except for one exhaust valve. I kept working on it and totally lost focus,once it cleaned up, it has a lot larger "land" (not sure what to call it) than the other valves. I had a spec sheet that i now can't find naturally, that i thought called for that "land" to be 3/64? Question is, if it's too wide what can i do to rectify my blunder? I have all new guides,valves,springs etc and ready to put it back together. On a side note. what can i use to clean the exhaust and intake ports 70 years worth of crud? I have die grinders i can use,
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Re: valve seat cutter question
You can have a valve seat insert installed. That's expensive, very expensive.
Drop a couple of valves in the exhaust seats. If there isn't to much difference, I wouldn't worry about it.
Rotary wire brush to clean up intake and exhaust ports. The ports on engine that I have seen were never milled after the block was cast.
Drop a couple of valves in the exhaust seats. If there isn't to much difference, I wouldn't worry about it.
Rotary wire brush to clean up intake and exhaust ports. The ports on engine that I have seen were never milled after the block was cast.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: valve seat cutter question
the valve should "seat" in the middle of the valve face, if it seats at the edge of the valve it will not last long and burn, you can try and find a larger valve if the seat is now to big and the valve face can be cut down to fit correctly, to replace the seat the block would have to be stripped down and machined for a new seat that is pressed in
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Re: valve seat cutter question
Glen wrote:Hi,
If you grind valve seats that are pitted too much, the valve will be too low in the seat before the seat is smooth again.
The valve seats, which are part of the block, may need replacing with new seats, if they are pitted too much.
The shop has to cut the block, and install seats in the places they cut to the right size in the block.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing how valves should fit in the seats.![]()
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-24.jpg
Not sure how i missed this ! Just the info i needed. Thanks
Thanks to all that replied
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Re: valve seat cutter question
I bought the Neway seat cutter along with a valve guide reamer.
Old Age: The phase of life when nothing works and everything hurts...
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Re: valve seat cutter question
Do you have a Vocational school in your area, when I went at night for welding the automotive shop was always looking for things to work on. TJ
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