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Clutch problem
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:01 am
- Zip Code: 06239
Clutch problem
I bought and installed a new throw out bearing and holder, pressure plate, and clutch disc on my 1949 cub. After putting the tractor together and trying to engage the clutch, there was a loud grinding noise. I split the tractor again and noticed that the throw out bearing holder was scraping against the top of the pressure plate as well as the 3 hex bolts on the pressure plate. As a matter of fact 2 of the hex bolts are stripped because of that. The pressure plate fingers were factory set but I wonder if I should move the fingers out further. Does anyone know if that would solve the problem?
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 604
- Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:09 pm
- Zip Code: 32736
- Tractors Owned: The crew:
"John", 1952 Cub
"Paul", 1951 Cub
"George", 1958 LoBoy Cub with Wagner 45 Loader
"Ringo", 1977 Cub
So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story. - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Clutch problem
Probably. These clutches are apparently used with other tractors, too, so it may have been “factory set” to the wrong dimension. For a Cub, the fingers should be set to 1.25” after installation to the fly wheel.
Also check that your clutch free play is set to 1”.
Edit: also, did you marinate the bearing in oil prior to installation and then pump it full of the cheapest grease you can find?
If replacing the pilot bushing was done while you were in there, check the ID after installation. Many replacements available now squish down too small at installation, so it will never completely let go of the transmission shaft. It’s much easier to ream it out while you are split.
Lots of images, discussion and how-tos available via search. Once you have 2 posts, you’ll have access to the manuals if you don’t already.
Also check that your clutch free play is set to 1”.
Edit: also, did you marinate the bearing in oil prior to installation and then pump it full of the cheapest grease you can find?
If replacing the pilot bushing was done while you were in there, check the ID after installation. Many replacements available now squish down too small at installation, so it will never completely let go of the transmission shaft. It’s much easier to ream it out while you are split.
Lots of images, discussion and how-tos available via search. Once you have 2 posts, you’ll have access to the manuals if you don’t already.
Last edited by Crimson Tim on Mon Jun 03, 2019 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Clutch problem
Welcome to the forum, the fingers are not set from the manufacturer , you need to adjust them before installing it and as mentioned soak the bearing for a few days in oil or it will destroy itself quickly from lack of lubrication
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- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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Re: Clutch problem
Hi,
The pressure plate fingers need setting after assembling the new clutch on the flywheel.
Below is a post I wrote info on lately about adjusting the fingers through the hand hole, on the bottom of the clutch housing. It has a pic of a new pressure plate, showing where to measure.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104288&p=826323#p826323
Don't push the clutch pedal down to where the throwout bearing holder hits the turning flywheel, it can damage the parts. It is not adjusted right if it hits the flywheel.
If the finger adjustment screws and nuts are damaged, you should replace them, they have to be usable, and turnable to adjust them.
The clutch pedal should have 1" of free play, measured at the surface where you put your foot.
The pedals should have return springs under the platform, that hold them up against the platform edge.
If the springs are gone, they need replacing. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has them.
If you replaced the pilot bushing in the rear end of the crankshaft, it can have too small an ID after being driven into the hole. Then it holds the clutch shaft too tightly, and the shaft keeps turning when you push the pedal down. Then the gears will grind when trying to shift them.
The bushing needs the ID checked after installing it, before putting the pressure plate on, and to be reamed if too small.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual telling the sizes at Spline and Clutch Shaft.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg
I think Crimson Tim was talking about this bushing. The PTO pilot bushing is at the rear end of the clutch shaft, and doesn't keep the clutch shaft turning.
The pressure plate fingers need setting after assembling the new clutch on the flywheel.
Below is a post I wrote info on lately about adjusting the fingers through the hand hole, on the bottom of the clutch housing. It has a pic of a new pressure plate, showing where to measure.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104288&p=826323#p826323
Don't push the clutch pedal down to where the throwout bearing holder hits the turning flywheel, it can damage the parts. It is not adjusted right if it hits the flywheel.
If the finger adjustment screws and nuts are damaged, you should replace them, they have to be usable, and turnable to adjust them.
The clutch pedal should have 1" of free play, measured at the surface where you put your foot.
The pedals should have return springs under the platform, that hold them up against the platform edge.
If the springs are gone, they need replacing. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has them.
If you replaced the pilot bushing in the rear end of the crankshaft, it can have too small an ID after being driven into the hole. Then it holds the clutch shaft too tightly, and the shaft keeps turning when you push the pedal down. Then the gears will grind when trying to shift them.
The bushing needs the ID checked after installing it, before putting the pressure plate on, and to be reamed if too small.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual telling the sizes at Spline and Clutch Shaft.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg
I think Crimson Tim was talking about this bushing. The PTO pilot bushing is at the rear end of the clutch shaft, and doesn't keep the clutch shaft turning.
Last edited by Glen on Mon Jun 03, 2019 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 604
- Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:09 pm
- Zip Code: 32736
- Tractors Owned: The crew:
"John", 1952 Cub
"Paul", 1951 Cub
"George", 1958 LoBoy Cub with Wagner 45 Loader
"Ringo", 1977 Cub
So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story. - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Clutch problem
Glen wrote:
I think Crimson Tim was talking about this bushing. The PTO pilot bushing is at the rear end of the clutch shaft, and doesn't keep the clutch shaft turning.
Yes, thanks for catching that, Glen. I said the wrong bushing. I corrected my previous post. Sorry about the confusion.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:01 am
- Zip Code: 06239
Re: Clutch problem
Thanks, this is great help. I'll do everything that's been suggested.
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