Changing brakes on cub

[tarawa]

I have read the instrunctions on changing the brakes on my 58 cub and it seams straight forward. Can anyone tell me what gaskets and seals to buy in the case I want to change them out while the final drive is removed?
Thanks!
george

[Eugene]

The only seals I replaced when I did the brake bands was the ones on side of the transmission/differential.

If needed it would be a good time to replace the lube and gasket on the finals pans.

[Ben B]

When I did mine on my 50 model I had to replace the seals on the final drive shaft, as well as the transmission seals. Both were leaking and had leaked grease in the area, and it would have contaminated the new brake lining if the grease had gotten on them.

It might not hurt to have the seals on hand just in case you find bad ones once you get in there. I happened to have a set on standby and it saved me a lot of trouble.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a post I wrote on with info about replacing brakes, and replacing the oil seals near the brakes, if you need more info.
The brakes in the post are the older style brake, they are similar, but not the same as a 1958 Cub would have. IH changed the style of the brakes in 1953.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103038&p=815640

While the final drive is off, I like to replace both oil seals, if they haven't been replaced lately.
There is a seal behind the brake drum, in the final drive casting.
If either seal leaks, oil will probably get on the brake lining.

You have to remove the brake drum, and it's key in the shaft, then remove the round cover at the end of the shaft, held on with the 4 bolts, then slide the shaft out, to the left, viewed from when it would be assembled on the tractor, if it is the left final drive, or to the right, if it is the right final drive.
Then you can get at the back side of the seal with a hammer and punch.

Tighten the brake drum set screw securely when putting it together, there have been posts on here showing that they came loose.

The people here say that TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has good parts for Cubs.
Below is their brake section.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/br_001newparts.htm

Below is their final drive section. They have gaskets for the final drive oil pans, while you are working there is a good time to change the final drive oil.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/fi_001newparts.htm

I posted links for the new seals, at the post I put the link to above.

There should be a dowel pin at the top and bottom of the surface where the final drive attaches to the Cub. If any are gone, TM Tractor has new dowel pins, below is the listing, it has pics of where the dowels are. There are dowel pins at the right end of the right side extension also.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/726fp.htm

When putting a final drive on a Cub, be sure the brake pin goes into the holes in the castings, at both ends. It can break the casting to tighten the 6 bolts holding the final drive on, if the brake pin is not in the holes.

Below is a pic of a final drive and seal, and showing the newer style of brake.

[Drfting1]

Overall, how difficult is it changing all those seals?

Was going to make that a summer project.. one of the things I didn't do when doing a basic restore to her

[Glen]

Hi,
It is some work, allow plenty of time, so you don't need to hurry. Cleaning the parts takes some time.

I would read all that I posted above before beginning the work.
I would read Dale Finch's post about replacing the brake, which is in the post I have the link to above.
She shows lifting the final drive with an engine lifter, easier than by hand.
1 big person can lift a final drive, or 2 people is easier probably.
The Cub service manual has a section about the final drives, I put a link for it in that info also.

You could pressure wash the final drives before removing them, if they are dirty.

The right side is harder, if the seal on the trans housing needs replacing, you have to remove the seat, and battery box, and loosen the platform, so the right extension will come off the trans, after you remove the right final drive.
The 2 bolts that hold the seat post on can get rusted and not come out easily. I don't know if you have had yours out before.
The bolts holding the battery box on can get rusted also.

If the lower seal at the wheel hub is leaking, it needs replacing too. That is more work, the axle has to be removed to replace the seal. The Cub service manual says to press the axle out, they are usually tight.
There is info in the Cub service manual about it.
Someone was working on that lately and made posts about it.

[john2189]

Hi,
It is some work, allow plenty of time, so you don't need to hurry. Cleaning the parts takes some time.

I would read all that I posted above before beginning the work.
I would read Dale Finch's post about replacing the brake, which is in the post I have the link to above.
She shows lifting the final drive with an engine lifter, easier than by hand.
1 big person can lift a final drive, or 2 people is easier probably.
The Cub service manual has a section about the final drives, I put a link for it in that info also.

You could pressure wash the final drives before removing them, if they are dirty.

The right side is harder, if the seal on the trans housing needs replacing, you have to remove the seat, and battery box, and loosen the platform, so the right extension will come off the trans, after you remove the right final drive.
The 2 bolts that hold the seat post on can get rusted and not come out easily. I don't know if you have had yours out before.
The bolts holding the battery box on can get rusted also.

If the lower seal at the wheel hub is leaking, it needs replacing too. That is more work, the axle has to be removed to replace the seal. The Cub service manual says to press the axle out, they are tight.
There is info in the Cub service manual about it.
Someone was working on that lately and made posts about it.

never-seize works wonders....

[tarawa]

I ordered all the seals, gaskets and brakes for my cub from Hamilton Bobs, but I had a suspicion that the brakes were ok. I adjusted them and when I tried to stop, there was nothing. No noise as if the linings were gone. No metal to metal sound. I dont care how hard you pressed, no sign that the brakes were engaging. First thought was correct. Drum must be spinning on shaft. Pulled the right side and brake linings are as new, seal was good, no signs of leakage. No keyway installed or no sign of ever having one. Keyway slot is perfect with no scoring.
i am sure left side is the same. Well, i ordered some woodruff keys. Everything will be new next week.

[Glen]

Hi,
Well that is different than usual.

If everything looks so good, someone was probably there replacing parts.
I would check and make sure the shaft, and ID of the brake drum are not worn from turning on the shaft.
They should fit together snugly.

There has to be a brake drum setscrew, and lock nut also.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for it, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/4721fp.htm

[tarawa]

I will do that next. It slid off with no wobble. Fairly close fit.

[tarawa]

There is a set screw.

[tarawa]

The brake drum on the right side fits perfectly. I am in the process of degreasing the right final drive and noticed the fact that there is no dust cover on this side. I looked it up on this site and found out that they use this side for a drive sprocket and there was never a dust cover. Since the dirt and grease is caked up around this axel nut, could you put a dust cover on it just to protect everything. I believe the ID is 2.5”.

[Eugene]

Since the dirt and grease is caked up around this axel nut, could you put a dust cover on it just to protect everything. I believe the ID is 2.5”.

Yes, cap from the left side should fit, be the same.

My standard Cub came with a cut down tin can covering the axle nut. Can has some metal strips holding the can to the final.

[Dale Finch]

If it is all dirty and greasy, it is probably because the o-ring seal on that side is leaking a bit.

[Glen]

Hi,
There is an oil seal there at the seed plate drive, no dirt can get in the final drive, if the seal is good.

I believe the cap from the left side won't fit the right side, the axle on the right is longer, where the seed plate drive is, and the cap is not deep enough to go on. I may be wrong, but I thought that's how it looks.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the left and right axles. The left side is the 1st pic. You can compare the length of the metal past the right ends of the splines.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the oil seal at the seed plate drive. There is a pic in the listing of where it goes.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/279fp.htm