YEAR CUB WAS BUILT
- Thread starter DBIZZELL
- Start date
I assume you meant difference between 1948 and 1970. There are a lot differences, some fairly obvious:
- 1970 engine block part number ends "R8", 1948 something less ("R1" or "R2", don't recall which)
- 1970 has long steering shaft and clamp on steering arm, vs short shaft and setscrew arms
- 1970 has toggle brakes vs one piece bands
- 1970 clutch adjustment is at base of pedal, 1948 might have it inside the bell housing.
- 1970 engine block part number ends "R8", 1948 something less ("R1" or "R2", don't recall which)
- 1970 has long steering shaft and clamp on steering arm, vs short shaft and setscrew arms
- 1970 has toggle brakes vs one piece bands
- 1970 clutch adjustment is at base of pedal, 1948 might have it inside the bell housing.
I DID MISS TYPE MENT 1948, THE BLOCK NUMBERS DO END IN R1, CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT IS ON OUT SIDE, GOT IT CHEAP ENOUGH THAT I CAN OVER HAUL ENGINE, CAN'T BELEIVE HOW TIGHT FRONT END IS AND PLOWS ARE, GOT ALL PLOWS FRONT AND BACK AND PLANTERS, GOT IT FROM FRIENDS WIFE, HE HAD PAST AWAY.
SOMEONE HAD PUT SQUARE HOOD ON IT, STAMPED 1977 S# AND PAINTED IT YELLOW, RUN FAIR BUT NOT MUCH POWER, IN FRAME OVER HAUL?
THANKS FOR THE HELP
DBIZZELL
SOMEONE HAD PUT SQUARE HOOD ON IT, STAMPED 1977 S# AND PAINTED IT YELLOW, RUN FAIR BUT NOT MUCH POWER, IN FRAME OVER HAUL?
THANKS FOR THE HELP
DBIZZELL
Hi,
You can look at the electrical system and it can help you identify the decade the Cub was made, if the electrical system is original.
A 1948 Cub electrical system is originally 6 volts, positive ground, with a starter rod that you pull to make the starter work.
The generator is sealed, and has a cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the gen. They have a 4 position switch on the dash that controls the gen charge rate, and the lights.
A 1948 Cub came with a magneto.
A 1970 Cub is originally 12 volts, negative ground. The starter has no rod that you pull. They had a push button on the dash.
The gen is open, or vented, with a fan at the front, and a voltage regulator on a bracket beside the gen.
They have a 4 position switch on the dash that is for the lights only.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, showing the electrical system with the hood off.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-33.jpg
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub and LoBoy operator's manual, with the hood off.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-26.jpg
The engine serial number is stamped on the engine block, and can help identify the year.
It is not the same as the tractor serial number, except for the first Cubs, in 1947.
The engine could have been replaced, then the serial number would probably not be the same as originally.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, showing where the engine serial number is.
You may need to clean it, and use a light to see it.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-02.jpg
If it doesn't have good power, it might need a full tune up, and the ignition timing checked.
The timing is important, if it is set wrong, the engine can have less power than it should.
You could do a compression test, and see if the compression is good.
You can look at the electrical system and it can help you identify the decade the Cub was made, if the electrical system is original.
A 1948 Cub electrical system is originally 6 volts, positive ground, with a starter rod that you pull to make the starter work.
The generator is sealed, and has a cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the gen. They have a 4 position switch on the dash that controls the gen charge rate, and the lights.
A 1948 Cub came with a magneto.
A 1970 Cub is originally 12 volts, negative ground. The starter has no rod that you pull. They had a push button on the dash.
The gen is open, or vented, with a fan at the front, and a voltage regulator on a bracket beside the gen.
They have a 4 position switch on the dash that is for the lights only.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, showing the electrical system with the hood off.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-33.jpg
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub and LoBoy operator's manual, with the hood off.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-26.jpg
The engine serial number is stamped on the engine block, and can help identify the year.
It is not the same as the tractor serial number, except for the first Cubs, in 1947.
The engine could have been replaced, then the serial number would probably not be the same as originally.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, showing where the engine serial number is.
You may need to clean it, and use a light to see it.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-02.jpg
If it doesn't have good power, it might need a full tune up, and the ignition timing checked.
The timing is important, if it is set wrong, the engine can have less power than it should.
You could do a compression test, and see if the compression is good.
DBIZZELL":1ik3msx7 said:
DBIZZELL - Welcome to the Forum!
Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:
- Welcome Wagon
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Now that you’ve logged your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:
- From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
- You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
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You'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.
Might also enjoy reading through this thread: What to do with a Cub you just brought home
There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11
We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084
Take some pictures of your tractors and post them, we’d like to see them.
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Glad you joined us.
:tractor:
Hi,
The compression numbers are some low.
The Cub service manual says a Cub engine has 120 lbs of compression. That is probably for a new engine.
Some less is ok, they have said on here 90 lbs or above is ok.
Before doing all the work of a rebuild to the engine, you could try an oil additive.
They say on here to put Seafoam oil additive in the engine oil.
They sell it at auto parts stores.
Several people on here that used it said that it helped a lot.
They say on here to make the engine work while using the additive.
If the piston rings are stuck, it can help free them.
One of the experts on here said to use the additive for 2 oil change periods.
The 1955 Cub operator's manual says to change the oil every 150 hours of use.
If the rings are wornout, the seafoam won't help much.
Here is info for doing a compression test, if you need it.
Open the throttle fully to do the compression test, so the engine can get air.
Have all 4 spark plugs out of the engine at the same time.
Charge the battery fully before the test, and use the starter.
The compression numbers are some low.
The Cub service manual says a Cub engine has 120 lbs of compression. That is probably for a new engine.
Some less is ok, they have said on here 90 lbs or above is ok.
Before doing all the work of a rebuild to the engine, you could try an oil additive.
They say on here to put Seafoam oil additive in the engine oil.
They sell it at auto parts stores.
Several people on here that used it said that it helped a lot.
They say on here to make the engine work while using the additive.
If the piston rings are stuck, it can help free them.
One of the experts on here said to use the additive for 2 oil change periods.
The 1955 Cub operator's manual says to change the oil every 150 hours of use.
If the rings are wornout, the seafoam won't help much.
Here is info for doing a compression test, if you need it.
Open the throttle fully to do the compression test, so the engine can get air.
Have all 4 spark plugs out of the engine at the same time.
Charge the battery fully before the test, and use the starter.
If it runs, buy a can of Seafoam and add it to the oil and gas per the can directions. Then work it hard
and recheck the compression numbers.
and recheck the compression numbers.
Clemsonfor
501 Club
Let's go ahead here and turn your caps lock off. :thanx: :tractor:DBIZZELL":1jhsu0yr said: