Woods 59 Mower Spindle
- Thread starter BIGHOSS
- Start date
Ron, You may want to do a search for the rebuild. If I recall correctly, others have said the spindle was not designed to be rebuilt, but just replaced. For that reason it's not "user friendly" for disassembly. Someone will correct me if that info is wrong.
Bob
Bob
Yep. I have also heard that. I have not priced it locally, which I will do tomorrow, but online a complete assy is $150. Ouch! Unless I am missing something. it looks straight forward. A seal at top and bottom with two bearings. The pin holds it all together. Steve Koons has rebuilt his, which is similar. Not ready to give up yet.
Bill Hudson
501 Club
Ron,
I have done it once, long enough ago that I can't remember the process other than I used a scratch awl to mark everything so that I could line it up during reassembly. I do remember that the pin (probably the one you drove out) was not centered on the shaft. A hydraulic press should be considered an absolute must for this job.
Good luck. keep us posted on your progress. Oh, I've got at least two more that need rebuilt.
Bill
I have done it once, long enough ago that I can't remember the process other than I used a scratch awl to mark everything so that I could line it up during reassembly. I do remember that the pin (probably the one you drove out) was not centered on the shaft. A hydraulic press should be considered an absolute must for this job.
Good luck. keep us posted on your progress. Oh, I've got at least two more that need rebuilt.
Bill
This will definitely be a learning process for me. After talking to others and reading all I can find online, this is how the process goes as I see it:
1. Remove roll pin from sleeve and shaft
2. Press out shaft from sleeve (right now this is the challange)
3. Remove two bearings and seals and replace with new
4. Press shaft back into sleeve (This is the tricky part. Just like a trailer axle, the right amount of pressure has to be applied for the bearings to turn freely,
without excess play. Remember there is no castle nut to fine tune the pressure.
5. When satisfied with free play, drill new hole through sleeve and shaft and drive in roll pin.
I am certainly open for comments and suggestions. One of our Farmers Co-ops is a Woods Dealer. I plan to go there today. Stay tuned!
1. Remove roll pin from sleeve and shaft
2. Press out shaft from sleeve (right now this is the challange)
3. Remove two bearings and seals and replace with new
4. Press shaft back into sleeve (This is the tricky part. Just like a trailer axle, the right amount of pressure has to be applied for the bearings to turn freely,
without excess play. Remember there is no castle nut to fine tune the pressure.
5. When satisfied with free play, drill new hole through sleeve and shaft and drive in roll pin.
I am certainly open for comments and suggestions. One of our Farmers Co-ops is a Woods Dealer. I plan to go there today. Stay tuned!
FWIW - I repaired one a few years ago and like Mr. Hudson said, a press is a must. Be sure to support the hub as near as possible to the middle, the hub flange will not handle the abuse. I managed to break the flange off in three pieces. 
After I repaired that I was able to align the original holes, reinstalled the drift pin and the preload was perfect, results may vary I'm sure.
After I repaired that I was able to align the original holes, reinstalled the drift pin and the preload was perfect, results may vary I'm sure. I'd be concerned with weakening the shaft, I'd make the new drift hole 90 degrees from the original and at least a half inch away from the original. The bearings come in a set (something like A 13 - usually less expensive), I got the seals and bearings at a local auto parts store.BIGHOSS":3grhjsdo said:
Dale Finch
501 Club
Would you take photos of your work? LOTS of photos?! I have a 59 that has a welded center spindle that needs work and would love to have the advantage of your experience to follow. I hate "reinventing the wheel" on projects like these. This is what this forum is all about! Thanks!!
Bus Driver
501 Club
Sounds as if the technique will be found to do the job. This is one I have not done. Since that mower has 3 spindles, it is possible that additional ones may need repair in the future. Even if you ruin yours in the attempt, keep it on hand to be used to study if the need should arise again. Sometimes ruining one part teaches one how to do the job properly next time.
I have experience using a Woods L59 mower for about twenty-two years mowing eight acres of rolling fields. I had to replace the middle spindle once...with a new assembly that cost something like $100 at the time. It's very important to keep greasing the spindles over the course of a mowing season. I grease every time I change the blades or about five times per season. The dust, dirt and moisture these spindles are exposed to is extreme...keeping them greased is the only defense against internal surface breakdown.
Bearings are pretty uniform in size. You will likely find, as Smokeycub did, that the existing pin holes are in the right place.
Back from Co-op, no help there. In fact they show that the spindle assy is N/A from Woods. Next we will try a 20 ton press. Stay tuned.
About drilling a new hole. The Woods parts breakdown says if replacing the sleeve and shaft, a new hole is to be drilled. Which makes sense as they probably come without holes. When I suggested drilling a new hole after replacing bearings etc., I thought there would be no way to re-align the old holes. Maybe I am just being pessimistic.
About drilling a new hole. The Woods parts breakdown says if replacing the sleeve and shaft, a new hole is to be drilled. Which makes sense as they probably come without holes. When I suggested drilling a new hole after replacing bearings etc., I thought there would be no way to re-align the old holes. Maybe I am just being pessimistic.
Buzzard Wing
501 Club
Just a note, those spindles come RIGHT and LEFT HAND thread. 59 (Cub) and L59. So if you get a new one make sure it's 'R'.
After failing with a BIG hammer and a hydraulic press finally got the sleeve removed from shaft assy with a big press in tool and die shop. It released with a "BANG". The sleeve had corrosion inside that bonded itself to the shaft. That is probably the reason for not being able to rebuild. Because of moisture and rust, the shaft is attached firmly to the sleeve.
But anyway, picked up new bearings and seals today for $33.61. Will try to make pics as I progress.
But anyway, picked up new bearings and seals today for $33.61. Will try to make pics as I progress.
Well it is back together and everything looks good. JR and Steve came by this afternoon for a mini-fest. JR watched, I handed tools to Steve while he did the work. 
We did not make any pics, but re-assembling is pretty straight forward. I do not have a press, so we had to drive in bearings, sleeve and seals. The roll pin holes which holds it all together were a little tricky, but worked out well.
I think that the problem is rust and corrosion between the sleeve and shaft. This is much like trying to separate a cub seat post. But, the key is to have a large hydraulic press. Don't think that the Harbor Freight type is sturdy enough.
Total cost was less than $40, as opposed to buying a new one for $150 or so.
We did not make any pics, but re-assembling is pretty straight forward. I do not have a press, so we had to drive in bearings, sleeve and seals. The roll pin holes which holds it all together were a little tricky, but worked out well.
I think that the problem is rust and corrosion between the sleeve and shaft. This is much like trying to separate a cub seat post. But, the key is to have a large hydraulic press. Don't think that the Harbor Freight type is sturdy enough.
Total cost was less than $40, as opposed to buying a new one for $150 or so.
staninlowerAL
501 Club
BIGHOSS":k31ldajp said:
That's why I love neverseize, Locktite C5A is my favorite. Stan