witch carb is better

batty54":2ggdf1yb said:
O.K. fill me in on the briggs carbs. Are you talking about the old "B" type updraft 3 hp engine carbs. I have done a fair share of small engine work but never thought about this transplant. Do you rejet? and how much.
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I have no idea about the type except I thought this carb was from a 2 HP (it was mine) and is a float type updraft. Nothing about the carb has been changed internally except for the adapters to make it fit. It wasn't even opened up until recently.

Re-jetting carburetors doesn't really make sense unless the venturi is also altered to keep the mixture in the right 14:1 range. Such a change is really beyond what those of us who aren't engineers should attempt. B&S had a pretty good handle on carburetor design and IH and Zenith did too.

Field changes to jet size on IH carburetors have caused far more problems than they solved. :(
 
Thanks George I will get out to the garage and try to dig one out. I'll grab a pic if I can and hopefully some numbers. I was collecting a bunch of these while gathering parts to restore my Fathers Planet Jr. it has the briggs BR6 engine on it.
 
Quick thought on the vinegar treatment.

I had to rebuild a boat carb for a neighbor (who shall remain nameless Joe) It was so corroded by water being left in it. I disassembled it and dumped it into a container of "CLR" calcium lime rust remover. The thing came out like new even the passage ways were clean just a slight poking with a number drill or wire where needed.
 
Rick, I didn't realize Larry's Cub did musical carbs also as did George's. I wonder how the B&S would do on higher revs? I guess more time and testing will reveal the magic formula for power.
 
Hi,

I've got an IH carb that I'm rebuilding. I bought a carb kit from Wenger's and have couple of questions:

1. The kit comes with a needle and seat. The needle has a viton or some type of rubber tip where the original is all steel. The original needle seems to be in good shape. Am I asking for trouble by going with the new needle and seat?

2. The weep hole felt and retainer is staked in place. What's the preferred method for removing the 4 stakes that hold the retainer in place?

3. The kit comes with a new throttle shaft. It doesn't look like the original and based on previous experiences with automotive carbs, removing and replacing the throttle blade has always been a pain. I'm inclined to leave the original as is.

4. Are there any other tips? It looks like I'll make a straightening jig since the mine is warped. I would have done it earlier but I was afraid of cracking it.


Thanks,

Kyle
 
WK,
I didn't realize Larry's Cub did musical carbs also as did George's. I wonder how the B&S would do on higher revs?
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Larry has two 184's and they were within 2/10ths in hp. They both have Zenith's and No musical carbs were done with Larry's. Now Gary's cub is a different story. He switched all 3 carbs for the test. George's briggs carb was used on Gary's cub. Gary also has the high rev engine like you do. His will reach over 3000 no problem. The dyno tach only goes to 3000, so he stopped there.

Rick
 
Rick, It will be interesting when you are able to test the high rev Cubs at there max to see if it makes any difference starting out at max high idle verses the reduced soft start.
 
I agree with John and jnr127. The zenith was basically a plug-N-play to install, and I also had the issue with the dipstick clearance. I had no butterfly problem with the single gasket.......and it runs like a top.
 
kjoiner":2l4u2ax1 said:
Hi,

I've got an IH carb that I'm rebuilding. I bought a carb kit from Wenger's and have couple of questions:

1. The kit comes with a needle and seat. The needle has a viton or some type of rubber tip where the original is all steel. The original needle seems to be in good shape. Am I asking for trouble by going with the new needle and seat?

2. The weep hole felt and retainer is staked in place. What's the preferred method for removing the 4 stakes that hold the retainer in place?

3. The kit comes with a new throttle shaft. It doesn't look like the original and based on previous experiences with automotive carbs, removing and replacing the throttle blade has always been a pain. I'm inclined to leave the original as is.

4. Are there any other tips? It looks like I'll make a straightening jig since the mine is warped. I would have done it earlier but I was afraid of cracking it.


Thanks,

Kyle
Click to expand...

Wenger's probably sold you the TISCO kit. It isn't a good fit for the IH carburetor. You are better off purchasing a carburetor kit from an IH dealer or TM (link on the home page) because it has all the parts for a complete overhaul.
 
I would be very careful with the CLR. The results may be the same as vinegar, if let soak too long. The following is straight from the product's web site. The highlighting is mine:

TIPS FOR USE:

Test a small area before applying to all surfaces.
Avoid prolonged contact with any surface; always rinse thoroughly with cold water after two minutes.
CLR is septic safe and contains no phosphates, bleach or ammonia.
CLR is non abrasive.
Always use CLR in a well-ventilated area.
Always stand on a non-slip surface while cleaning.
Wear household rubber gloves when using CLR.
Do not use CLR on wood, clothing, wallpaper, carpeting, marble, terrazzo, natural stone, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica or aluminum.
CLR is corrosive if left on too long.
Never reuse bottle.
Never mix with other household cleaners or bleach.
 
An Update on Mike's carb. This morning I zipped up to the Post Office to retrieve the package sent from TM. I went home, opened the box, and proceeded to completely rework the carb, top to bottom. The jig straightened the warped top half nicely. I also placed a new screen in the fuel inlet that was missing :shock: , then removed all the old oxidation inside the bowl with the dremel tool and wire wheel. Blew everything out and layed it on a clean rag(not in that order). Next, the top flange was also warped slightly, so that was straightened, then both 1/4-20 holes were stripped out, no signs of any threads, so a couple heli-coils and 2 new studs/lock washers/ and nuts, and that was back to original. Blew everything out, then installed the new idle tube, installed the small fiber gaskets under the discharge nozzle and the needle valve cage after I gave them the "George Willer Hoochy Coochy Silicone Sealer Treatment" :D :D that was learned at Bigdog's Cubtug this year. Installed the new float and set the adjustment at 1-13/32 with 3/16 of travel. Buttoned everything up and installed the carb on Nickles, my 55, and mowed grass for 1/2 hour. Removed the carb, drained all the gas, and shipped it back to Mike this afternoon.

Have fun Mike, hopefully you'll have it by tomorrow or Saturday.I don't think I'd give that guy anymore of your business :D :D, plus I'd try to get back most of the kit he didn't use.

Rick
 
Rick(billyandmillie)":22v6ajuo said:
installed the small fiber gaskets under the discharge nozzle and the needle valve cage after I gave them the "George Willer Hoochy Coochy Silicone Sealer Treatment" :D :D that was learned at Bigdog's Cubtug this year.
Rick
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Rick asked me to 'splain it... The fibre washers are very hard and won't really seal well against a surface that's less than perfect so they're to blame for a lot of dripping carburetors. Often the drips are mistakenly blamed on the needle valve.

I use black Permatex but I suppose RTV silicone would do as well. I use a couple squares of cardboard like a cereal box. Put a small dab of the sealer on one and rub them together "hoochie coochie". Both pieces should have a thin film of sealer. Now lay a washer between them and do the hoochie again and it should have a very thin film of sealer with no extra to squeeze out and cause problems. I handle the coated washers with tweezers. :D This treatment cures a lot of dripping carburetors.
 
And all this time I thought the Hootchie Kootchie was a tent at the Fryeburgh Fair :wink: :lol: :lol:
8)
 
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