Wiring harness purchas vs DIY. Input by done thats, please.

C

Chris B. Memphis TN.

Member
I have a rat nest for a wiring job on my 1951 cub. One wire altenator. Amp meter. On off toggle for headlights & tail light. New distributor cap & button. Points, condenser, coil w/resistor, external resistor. Coil gets hot. Have to disconnect hot side of battery when not in use, will drain battery if I do't. Seen commercially available harness from HB advertised on this site. Need input from both sides of been there, done that, please. Thank you in advance.
 
It’s not that hard to do your own, if you want to save some money. I’ve made my own and also bought one already made that was a little more complicated. It’s really personal preference as to what you want.
 
I make up the wiring myself. I have most if not all the necessary parts on hand.

Inexpensive, parts for rewiring are readily available at hardware and auto parts stores.

I have work tractors. The wiring doesn't have to be pretty, just work. I have removed the lights from my tractors, no need to wire for them.

If you do it yourself, no need to make sure the wiring harness you order matches your tractor.

Just my opinion.
 
Easy to make yourself, especially with a 1 wire alternator. Pre made one will have more wires than you need, for the 1 wire conversion. Solder the terminals, if you can.

Ed
 
I use pieces of salvaged wiring harnesses from dead cars to patch breaks on my '49 FCub. Meticulously clean the ends to be soldered. Use liberal amount of solder. Cover with heavy coat of hot glue. Brush paint if you need/want pretty. Clean your grounds while your at it. This method has proven to be a cheap and reliable fix.
Apparently newer wiring harnesses use an environmentally friendly soy based insulation on the wires that mice are attracted to. Last year we had an explosion of mice and they got into just about every machine in town. Tractors, cars, excavators, motorcycles, generators . . . [long list] all got chewed up. There's a lesson somewhere in there. Good luck.
 
Buy them! The factory made ones have the correct color and gauge of wires and (most likely) have crimped and soldered ends. Also saves lots of time when installing, because its already made! The ready to buy ones are just a better made harness (IMO) and probably less chance of having an electrical fire. Years later when issues arise or the tractor is sold, no one likes trying to figure out another persons handiwork that may/may not be right.
 
I agree with everyone here, it was pretty simple making my harness.. made my headlight wires little bit longer with disconnects fir when I ever have to pull good off... Heat shrank all the connectors also, just need the wiring diagram for your voltage, mine was simple with 12v one wire alternator
 
I hope I won't be "horning in" here, but I would like to rewire my 1950 model Cub. It has been converted to 12 volt, negative ground. I do not wish to wire headlights as I have no use for them. I have a "key" switch and a starter pull (not on the key switch). Right now the ammeter is not working (I don't think it is wired at all) and I don't think I am getting any charge to the battery. That is not a big problem for me as I have a battery tender in my shop and that keeps my battery up. Starts quickly and easily. Everything else seems to be working at the moment. I got brave enough with encouragement from my friends on this forum and changed the points and condenser. Relative new coil. Timing seems to be good.

Is there a simple wiring diagram I can use? Or can someone give me at least the essentials?

While I'm doing this I will try to "fix" the small water leak at the one headbolt.
 
I just tried using the after market but it doesn’t work. I just purchased some #4 battery cable wire for the leads. All the wiring and terminals , so now we can crimp and cover the connections with shrink boots. I have one fcub, three int154’s to rewire.

1. Battery cables
From the rear to be grounded near the s/g.
2. Wire 10si 105 amp alternator.
3. Wire headlights, lights. Rear lights, I purchased those 12 vt runway lights.
4. Ignition switch, coil, distributor,
 
I bought my harness from Agri-Services in Alden, NY. You need to specify that it has a 1 wire alternator so they use the right wire gauge and connectors. I bought harnesses for a Farmall H & M also. Everything is labeled for easy install. They make new battery cables too from welding wire. If you want a original looking harness with soldered and shrink wrap connectors these are it. Good family run business with a lot of knowledge.
https://www.wiringharnesses.com

Larry
 
Larry in WNY":3ivfbme2 said:
I bought my harness from Agri-Services in Alden, NY. You need to specify that it has a 1 wire alternator so they use the right wire gauge and connectors. I bought harnesses for a Farmall H & M also. Everything is labeled for easy install. They make new battery cables too from welding wire. If you want a original looking harness with soldered and shrink wrap connectors these are it. Good family run business with a lot of knowledge.
https://www.wiringharnesses.com

Larry
Click to expand...


Can I as how much did that cost?
 
I got a new wiring harness for my 1954 Cub from Brillman and couldn’t be happier. I’ve built wiring harnesses before, and a Cub wouldn’t be hard, but I appreciated the convenience. I liked that they used old school woven loom as well.

https://brillman.com/wire-harnesses/
 
I do a lot of wiring at work and i buy the harness. We do not use the same connectors nor the correct wire. It is one less thing you have to think about when trouble shooting.

Brillman has great harnesses.
 
padre":39j7pktw said:
Is there a simple wiring diagram I can use? Or can someone give me at least the essentials?
Click to expand...
Use the search function. Search for single wire alternator or 1 wire alternator.

There are wiring how to's and discussions on this site.
 
Thanks everyone. I'm retired w/limited funds. Electrical is not my strong point. I'm much better at mechanical. I can solder as I just did a pin hole on the cub's carburater float. Gas was running out how I figured it out. I can crimp the ends on as well. And shrik wrap a connection.
 
If you are going to do it right, you need to color code the wires. This means you need to buy several rolls. Then you need connectors for each end. If you are only going to do one harness, you may find the DIY savings don't amount to much. On the other hand, with an alternator conversion, it will require a custom harness and take some effort to make sure a purchased harness does what you need.
 
This is the diagram I used, even tells you what gauge wire. Note there is no resistor in that diagram, my coil has an internal one
 

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Jackman":3eng0yx7 said:
Larry in WNY":3eng0yx7 said:
I bought my harness from Agri-Services in Alden, NY. You need to specify that it has a 1 wire alternator so they use the right wire gauge and connectors. I bought harnesses for a Farmall H & M also. Everything is labeled for easy install. They make new battery cables too from welding wire. If you want a original looking harness with soldered and shrink wrap connectors these are it. Good family run business with a lot of knowledge.
https://www.wiringharnesses.com

Larry
Click to expand...


Can I as how much did that cost?
Click to expand...

Their online catalog shows $145. Less for a generator/regulator setup.
Larry
 
I find that redoing the wiring it is the best part of a rebuild or rehab, the most fun and not very risky once you get some understanding of the flow. I do all my big tractors too which are much more complicated. It is very relaxing.
 
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