Where to purchase genuine WOODs mower belt?

R

rick 48 cub

Well-known member
Hi,

Where can I find a Woods brand 4152 belt for my 1977 cub?

From this forum, it seems that I keep losing my L59 belly mower belt because the 15 year old(?) woods brand belt is worn out. (All the bearings seem fine - very little play in pullys and spindles.)

I tried case IH and Tractor supply store and Amazon. It seems all I am finding are "replacement" or OEM compatible knockoffs. From this forum, I am also gathering that Woods brand belt is the way to go for keeping the belt on the mower.

BTW, I went by the book to route the belt, have the correct partial twists in the correct places and proper relative hight of rear idler pullys.

Thanks for your help! Rick
 
Woods dealers. Your original Woods belt was more than likely manufactured by a firm other than Woods.

Local auto parts store with your belt dimensions. Ask for their premium quality belt.
 
Unless you are getting very cheap belts It probably has to do with the alignment of the pto and the mule gear pulleys and as Tim said the pulleys should be the same height. The belt path is also very complicated.
 
If your belt is truly 15 years old it was worn out a long time ago. It is stretched and cords broken, it will not stay on, period. I would not spend the money on a woods belt, the aftermarket belts today will last just as long as the the high priced woods, trust me, I know.
 
Thx for your help! I am a cheapskate, so I will carry my old belt to the store to get a good match. Stay tuned :-).

P.s. my old belt says it is woods brand.
 
Like you, l'm cheap. Also the dealer l used to get my belts from is no longer dealing with Woods. I got an after market premium a few years back and never had a problem with it.
I'm don't mean to disagree with other responses, but the manual from Woods says that the belt should be parallel with the deck while in the down position. Since the belt coming off and going to the center pulley is at different heights (one top and one bottom), that means that your mule drive pulleys will be at different heights as well (slightly).
The way l set mine up. I set the right rear pulley (looking at it from the rear)at the proper level so the belt runs "straight". Then l raise the mower deck as high as it will go and take up the slack on the belt by pushing down the left pulley, then tighten it down in place. When you lower your deck your belt should be at the propper tension. It took some trial and error to come up with system but l've been doing it this way for 20+ years, and it has worked for me. Just so you know, l mow 5 acres at least once a week from Apr-Oct and l've gone through 4-5 belts over 30 yrs.

Good luck
Hutch
 
Thanks Hutch for the tip on tightening the belt with the deck raised. You must get your belt VERY tight! I wish there was a way to reasonably measure belt tightness.

BTW, last night I ordered a belt on Amazon that is labeled "PPP 4153" from this place:

"Pro Parts Place Compatible with Woods 4152, New Replacement Belt for Woods L59 L59A L59A-3 L59H284 L59KL-A L59KL-2 L59KL-3"
 
Plz stayed tuned. I hope to get the new PPP brand belt in the mail and mounted on the cub in about one week. I will let u know if I recommend the three P's after I mow about an acre.

:hattip:
 
I just replaced my Woods 59-CF2 belt with an aftermarket belt so I can ditto the "pulleys at close to the same height" and "it must be VERY tight" advice! I would add this: With all the crazy twists and turns these things do, it will be critical to just let the belt "break in" before expecting it to do real work. Once I finally let mine run the deck at mid throttle, but just sitting in place, for an hour or two, it was flexed and broken in enough to work, and it has not thrown the belt since then.

Also, a slightly ground down C-clamp can help get things tight! (Use a larger clamp so the pulleys can be close to the same height though!)
 

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lakesurfer":aa37g0nj said:
With all the crazy twists and turns these things do, it will be critical to just let the belt "break in" before expecting it to do real work.
Click to expand...

I'll have to say, that's a new one on me. If a new belt on a machine won't go right to work, it suggests to me something's "off." But if it worked for you, roll with it!

Al
 
Super A":1u9ysiuk said:
lakesurfer":1u9ysiuk said:
With all the crazy twists and turns these things do, it will be critical to just let the belt "break in" before expecting it to do real work.
Click to expand...

I'll have to say, that's a new one on me. If a new belt on a machine won't go right to work, it suggests to me something's "off." But if it worked for you, roll with it!

Al
Click to expand...
We have always run for maybe 5 minutes with no load and then re adjust. Tighten after the first hour or two of mowing, and then just check the belt out each time we mow after that. We hardly ever throw a belt unless something is wrong
 
I'm not trying to be argumentative, and if it works for you go with it, but the Woods manual clearly states that the belts ( going to and coming from) should be parallel with the deck. Therefore l set up my right pulley so the belt is parallel as it comes off the bottom of the center spindal. Once that pulley is locked, it hasn't been moved in 10+ yrs. The left pulley is what l use for tensioning. As previously stated, l raise the deck as far as it will go, push down the left pulley with my left hand as far as it will go, then while holding it, tighten it with the wrench in my right hand. When you lower your deck the belt will be just about right. Without looking it up l believe the manual calls for about a 1/4" of play. The other thing to keep in mind are the correct twists in the belt between the left mule drive pulley and the center spindle. Messed that up once and it cost me a belt. Otherwise l average 4-5 yrs per belt mowing 5 acres Apr - Oct.
 
Yahoo!

I very tightly installed the knockoff PPP-4152 belly mower belt on my woods L59 mower deck with the correct twists and the left idler pulley above the right, I ran the mower on idle speed for about 1/2 hour. I was surprised to find that the belt was quite hot to the touch - but not hot enough to burn my hand. The belt was still quite tight so I ran it again at 1/2 max rpm for about 20 minutes. I than upped the throttle to about 75% and mowed my 3/4 12" grass in first gear. I after mowing I cranked the cub up to about 90% rpm and the belt stayed on the pullys. While the belt did not seem to loosen, I will keep checking it as time goes by.

Thanks for all of your help!
 
Hi,
You said the mower is on a 1977 Cub. I guess you meant a regular Cub.
Before using a Woods rotary mower with the belt really tight, read below on a page from the Wood's 59-C-2 owner's manual, it says the mower is made so the belt loosens when fully raised, to prevent excessive load to the PTO pilot bearing. It says don't overtighten the belt.
The page is on it's side on my computer, the info is at the upper left paragraph, at V-BELTS. It also says L-59 at the top of the page. Maybe you can turn the page so it is right side up.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/wood ... e%2003.jpg

Below is the whole manual.
http://www.farmallcub.info/galleries/oe ... _Mower.asp
 
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