Well, I went and did it.

S

SplochPaw

New member
Thank you all for letting me join the community. I went out and purchased this 1950 Farmall cub. It was stuck, and I was able to free up the pistons, but once I dropped the pan I was met with rust everywhere...the engine was once filled with water up to halfway up the distributor drive. Luckily, I have not found any cracks in the block. I am going to do a full rebuild on it, and I have named it Stuck Norris.
This is the first tractor I have ever tackled. I have done small engines, Maytags and such before. I live in the city and have no garage, but I do have a walk-in basement and plan to tear it down into components and bring it inside for winter rebuilding.

I'm sure I will be posting and asking a lot of questions. I will try to search for my answers first.
 

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Stuck Norris! I love it!! Welcome aboard and congrats on the great purchase. One thing you may want to do before you sink a lot of money in the engine is pressurize the block and make sure there are no cracks in it. You can do that by capping off the inlet and outlet to the water jackets and having a Schrader valve in one of the caps. I've added a link to a post relating to that below. Have fun and good luck!!

ricky racer

Thread 'Engine Block Pressure Test'

A few weeks ago, I purchased a Cub with a cracked block from a forum member. I had a donor motor back in the barn so I thought I'd take a chance. Before making an offer on the Cub, I decided I'd better make sure the donor block was sound and wasn't cracked too. To test the block I purchased an 1-1/4" expandable rubber plug from a local hardware store and inserted it in the lower coolant inlet and snugged it up.

Plug 1.jpg

Next I took a scrap piece of 1/4" steel and drilled 2 bolt holes to attach it to the head in place of the upper coolant inlet using a piece of gasket materal...
 
Ricky, with your permission, I would like to move your thead to the how to forum. We use to be able to copy threads, but we no longer have that option.
 
Welcome
As you go through the journey, please keep in mind that we love pictures. It's always nice to keep track of a project from begining to completion. We're here to help when and if you need it.

Hutch
 
Thanks all. Since this is a long term project, over the weekend I stripped it down to components and have it all in the basement. I decided to start with the right final drive. I finally got it stripped down and checked the bearings. the input shaft bearing is rough, and the outside taper bearing spins fine, but the cage is bent up. I think I will replace all of the bearings, but should I replace the races as well? They look great, but I don't want to ruin new cones if I should also replace them. That seal in the retainer that is between the hub and outer cone is a real bear to get out. I ended up gutting it and knocking it out with a punch. Is there an easier trick to this? I have also found that sacrificing a tiny amount of blood to the tractor gods seems to make things go smoother.
 
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