Weirdest Stuff on Craigslist: Flymo Edition

Crimson Tim

501 Club
I stumbled across a new (to me) strange device on my local Craigslist a few weeks back. It’s a lawn mower called Flymo, due to it being a mower that “flies”. At least hovers. Sort of. It has no wheels whatsoever, it is just supposed to float over the ground.

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When I first saw this thing, I thought that sounded like the most dangerous thing since lawn darts! I want it!
Then I got to thinking about it…. What I can’t mow with the Cub is in and around and under roses in containers and beds and under an extensive post and rail fence line and some other typical detail work. That really would make life easier if I could maneuver a push mower in any direction instead of just forward and backward. Maybe this idea makes more sense than I originally gave it credit for?

Long story short, I don’t think anyone will be surprised that I like antique, oddball contraptions. Hence my presence on this site in the first place. The more I thought about this Flymo, the more interesting it seemed. Then I ended up with a couple extra bucks in my pocket, so it followed me home.

Flymo has been around actually for a long time (at least since the 70s, maybe 50s, I don’t remember what I originally found), though they never really caught on much in the US. They are very popular in the UK, however. They are still in business with an extensive product list of wheeled and hovering mowers, mostly electric these days. Turns out mine was built in 1981 according to the serial number, or 1978, according to what Flymo told me when I asked if they could supply any documentation. Husqvarna was importing these at the time.

The engine is a 2-stroke rated at 3.5 hp of Tecumseh design, though licensed to several other companies. Everything is lightweight. The deck is a plastic, but sturdy. The engine is aluminum. It doesn’t have centrifugal weights for a governor, it has a plastic vane the reacts to the speed of the airflow off the fins on the top of the engine. It’s not at all difficult just to pick up the whole thing to carry it around if necessary, or it will slide across the grass easily enough even when not running.

I have to admit, I have an old wood chipper with an 8.5 hp, 4 cycle Tecumseh engine, and now this Flymo with a 2 cycle Tecumseh engine, and my experience with these two really make me like them better than the typical Briggs or Koehler small engines I have typically worked with. They seem a little less lowest-common-denominator cheap, and a little more thoughtful in design and function. Too bad they went out of business!

This had apparently sat on a shelf at a mower service shop for 10 years. When it closed down, a service tech took it home with him in hopes of getting it going. Then he ran out of time and space, so decided to sell it. I’m not surprised the mower shop went out of business, because it didn’t take much to get it going. The guy told me it doesn’t have spark, even though he had had the flywheel off and been into the points. 10 seconds after I had the top cover off, at least part of the problem was obvious: the wire from the points to the coil was severed. Thanks to lurking here for years, I felt like I had a pretty good idea how things should look, and that wasn’t it. I re-gapped the points, put the flywheel back on and fixed the wire. The only other things I did to get it running doesn’t even amount to basic maintenance: clean the fuel system & carb, fab up a makeshift air filter and find a workaround for some missing fasteners. Now the little thing runs like a beast!

It has holes in the deck around the engine, and a centrifugal fan just above the cutting blades. So it draws air down past the engine (and the exhaust) under the deck to create the cushion of air to hover. In the fairly dense grass that it prefers, it really is surprisingly free of dust and chaff. However, if the grass is patchy and there is bare dirt exposed, yeah, it does create a *lot* of dust! Uneven ground and patchy grass also means it doesn’t hover so well.

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It’s only rated at 3.5 hp, but it runs a lot stronger than the 6.5 hp B&S powered 4 cycle mower which is admittedly on its last legs. There’s a lot of irrigation used in the rose garden, so the grass gets pretty thick. I routinely stall out the B&S repeatedly trying to get through there. However, I can’t find vegetation thick enough to stall out the Flymo. It rarely even slows down. Actually, it really likes thick grass, as it hovers better that way. On bare pavement, it doesn’t really hover, but sort of skitters lightly over the surface. Once you get into grass, though, it does better. With nice, even ground and reasonably thick grass, it hovers about an inch above the soil. The cutting blade is recessed up higher in the skirt than a regular mower, so you are actually *less* likely to cut off a toe or mow over something you didn’t intend that a regular mower. I can mow over hoses and such with no issue.

Incidentally, you are supposed to adjust the cutting height by adding or removing spacers between the fan and the cutting blade.

So. How does it work? I like the engine a lot. It has a deceptive amount of power in a *very* lightweight package. As far as the overall cutting experience, it’s…. Fine. Because the blade is recessed so much under the skirt, it’s not a super aggressive cut. I sometimes have to go over super long weeds a couple of times before it will actually cut them. Not a lot worse than most push mowers, but a bit. Overall, I’d like it to cut a bit shorter, so if I can find a spacer or two that should improve that some.
Where the grass is thick but not too tall, the maneuverability is really very nice. It moves easily in any direction. Where the grass gets patchy or the ground uneven though, that starts to break down. Worst case, though, it slides on the grass pretty easily even when the engine is not running at all, especially when you pull it behind you.
Yes, it does make all the tight maneuvering between the roses easier.
And yes, it does make the fence line easier. The fence is perpendicular to a slight slope, so I find a can walk along the fence on the uphill side and drag the mower behind me. The slope will cause the mower to follow diagonally at an angle, thus getting under the fence. Then I can just pull it uphill a bit at each fence post and let it drift back downhill to get under the next section. So I can pretty much get under the whole fence just by walking a single pass instead of endless back and forth jockeying with a wheeled mower.
The down side is that the rougher ground and patchier grass around the barn is tougher to negotiate because it’s so lumpy the air cushion isn’t maintained as well. We have a horse farm, not a golf course, so it would do better here if it hovered with 50% to 100% more clearance.

That said, my plan is to use this for all small mowing duties from here on out, and have been doing so successfully for a couple weeks now.

Like with all of the unique old pieces of equipment, parts and documentation are very difficult to source. If anybody has any ideas for those, I would love to hear them. I have a couple of parts diagrams, but none of them match this model completely. I am in need of a couple of missing fasteners, and I’d like a real air filter, because I worry the one I cobbled together might not be 100% effective. And the kill switch doesn’t work yet.

Anyway, I thought you might enjoy this little bit of historical, out of the box thinking. Is it better? No, I can’t really say it’s better. It’s no worse. It’s just different. It has different strengths and weaknesses. I just like it because it’s weird!
 
One of the issues I need to address missing fasteners…. The gas tank is held on with two screws, one of which was missing. With a single screw, I couldn’t keep it from vibrating loose even in the short test runs until it finally came out and I lost it. Can’t find a replacement even with the part number. I will either search for matching threads or just come up with a more secure attachment method. I’ll figure that out, but there’s another issue I’d like to hear opinions on.

The bolts holding the engine cover on go into aluminum. One of the three stripped out very easily, so it was already damaged. I’m worried now that only two bolts is likely to let it vibrate and therefore damage the other two bolt holes. I know one of the thread insert repair kits would make a good repair (why are none of the brand names coming to me right now?), but those are pricey and I don’t yet have any in hand. I do have epoxy in hand, though. Can I epoxy the bolt in place such that I can then remove it safely again later? By coating the bolt in soap or wax or something prior to epoxying?
 
I've seen those Flymo's before. It always seemed to me that in order for the mower to hover, the blade would have to create down force to allow it to hover, which in my mind would flatten the grass preventing it from creating a nice cut. Normal blades create a suction to stand the grass up so it can make a nice even cut. If the Flymo used normal blades, it seems it would suck the deck down to the ground making it harder to slide across the grass. At least in my mind, that's how I see it.
 
I thought that too. In practice it works better than you would think. The lift isn’t generated by the cutting blades. The centrifugal fan above the blades draws air in from the top and pushes it outward to where the deck then directs it downward at the edges. The blades themselves don’t have any twist up or down. They’re just level. So the cutting blades are neutral. The downdraft occurs in a ring just outside the blades. I suspect you could use some typical uplifting blades without issue (or even with net improvement) as it would just reinforce some toroidal recirculation that is going on anyway.
I was expecting it to flatten the grass before cutting, too, but have not really found that it does. It doesn’t do quite as well with long stuff as a conventional mower, but it’s pretty close. I think mostly that’s because the blade is recessed up behind the skirt farther than a conventional mower. The skirt knocks tall stuff over and then the blade can’t reach it to cut it. Same thing happens with a conventional mower, but a little worse in this case. If I space the blade down to shorten the cut, that should help.
 
Eastman Industries, who bought the Ingersoll line of garden tractors (think Case GTs) a few years back, had a hovering lawn mower like that. It was advertised for mowing along edges of lakes, ponds, etc. I'm not sure if they're in business anymore or not, when you click on their website, it goes to a Chinese page.
 
Helicoil. That’s it. Don’t know why I was drawing a blank on that. CRS, I suppose. I figured that was probably the best way to go.
 
Well, I took a little video in case you wanted to see how it worked. Having a storage issue, however. Should get it located someplace where you can see it soon.

It starts pretty easily, though needs about a half a dozen pulls to get going.
It runs great as long as I keep fuel in it. If it runs out, it won’t restart hot. I have to let it cool 10 minutes or so before it will start again.
My more modern Husqvarna weed whip is pretty much the same. 25-30 years newer. Also 2-cycle.
Points have been checked and gapped. Have not yet checked the spark plug. Any thoughts on getting a successful hot restart?
 
Looks like it functions similarly to a floor scrubber/buffer. Is there any tendency for it to drift left or right due to the torque of the engine?
 
Don McCombs":2ply847a said:
Looks like it functions similarly to a floor scrubber/buffer. Is there any tendency for it to drift left or right due to the torque of the engine?

Yeah, it does look like that, doesn’t it? And it does sort of handle like that, with the exception that it’s not trying to fight you. I haven’t used a buffer or a scrubber, but I have used a big concrete grinder of the same format. This is way easier. It’s not trying to dart off in random directions, and the whole thing weighs less than 25 pounds.

No. No noticeable torque or drift. Other than a tendency to drift downhill, that is.
 
I can remember them being advertised sometime in the 70s. I couldn't understand at the time how they could hover and still lift the grass to cut it. It would be interesting to see one in person.
 
Well, I’ve been using this Flymo for over a year now. I’m still pretty enamored with its oddity.
However, after a year back in use after who knows how long of sitting on a shelf, I have come to a couple of maintenance issues that I’m hoping the bottomless expertise that exists on the site can help me with.

I still love this tiny engine. 3.5 hp Tecumseh 2-stroke in aluminum. I still have not managed to find grass thick enough to stall it. Part of that might be that the deck is a bit deeper than a standard mower, which limits a bit how much vegetation gets up in there if the grass is really long. Part of it may also be that there is no lift whatsoever to the blades, so they just cut through a cloud of grass clippings with less resistance like a knife. Generally, the thicker the grass is, the happier it is.

However, I have had a few foibles.
I mentioned I had a bolt hole stripped that held the cover on. There are three bolts. One hole stripped. One bolt vibrated out and got lost. The last remaining one snapped off part of the casting, since it was the only remaining thing holding the engine cover (and therefore the fuel tank) on.

Good news. The bolts only engaged some of the threads that were already present. Therefore, there are intact threads beyond the area where they were stripped. I got longer bolts and did a trick I’ve often seen mentioned here on the forum: cut a lengthwise slot in the bolt threads to use a bolt like a tap in order to clean out the spooge from the extra threads. Worked great! All 3 bolts hold securely now, though I will probably end up using an insert on the partially stripped one eventually. Or maybe just a nut on the back side of the bolt?

The part of the casting that broke out around the bolt hole was partially weathered, so the fatigue crack has clearly been growing for some time. I thought about brazing it, but wasn’t sure I could get it hot enough to do so successfully with the small oxy-MAPP torch I have. Instead, I fell back on everyone’s favorite, JB weld, using a couple pieces of 1/2” flat aluminum stock I had laying around to back up the epoxied joints for added strength. I think that’s going to work out well, though it looks ugly as all get out. At least it will be hidden.

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One interesting thing about this engine. That white flag-looking thing? That’s the governor. No heavy governor weights to hold this thing down. That vane moves in the breeze from the flywheel fan, and the strength of that breeze is how it knows how fast the engine is spinning. Pretty innovative way to save a couple ounces. It works really seamlessly.

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The fuel tank had originally been held down by a pair of screws to the engine cover. The holes were threaded, but just in thin sheet metal, so they were not holding that well. I ended up losing both screws. As a fix, I JB Welded two machine screws under the engine cover, sticking up like studs. Now I need to get a small bushing to protect the plastic tank from the screw threads and lock nuts, because I can’t tighten these enough against the plastic to keep them from vibrating loose. Or maybe just slipping an o-ring over the screw after the nut would be enough to keep it in place?

Ok, now the bits I need guidance on. The spark plug wire gets jammed between two cooling fins on the head in order to pass out from under the engine cover. During the couple times I ran this while the cover was inadequately fastened, the plug wire shifted and got pinched between a short fin and the cover, cutting the plug wire insulation in a couple spots. I can’t get this to run now, and I believe it is because I am grounding out the plug wire through this damaged insulation. I tried several wraps of electrical tape, which seemed to work for maybe a couple minutes. I gather electrical tape is only good for about 600V, and a plug wire can see maybe 10,000V? There is not physically enough room for enough layers of tape to get sufficient protection that way.
So, question 1, does anyone have a better idea for repairing the insulation on the plug wire?
Or, question 2, does anyone know how to get the plug wire out of the magneto without damage so I can replace just the wire, without having to source a new magneto for a 45 year old lawn mower? I’m thinking just cut as best I can through the sealant or epoxy around the wire, and just pull? Not sure if the white thing is some sort of retaining clip that I would need to deal with in some fashion?

While trying to troubleshoot spark in the no-start situation, I did get a decent poke off the spark plug boot. So I know there is at least some spark being produced, I just don’t think it’s going where it needs to.

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Secondly, while trying to troubleshoot the spark issue, the rope on the recoil starter gave out.
I believe I have to disassemble the recoil unit to swap out the rope, but I haven’t figured out how to get into it. I think the only way in is to press out the axle to let everything slide out of the holder, but it doesn’t want to budge. The body of the recoil unit is all one piece, and does not come apart. Everything is plastic to save weight, and 45 years old. I don’t want to break anything. I don’t think it’s just a matter of bending the holder enough to pop out the gear and spring. I’m pretty positive that would require more deflection than it would survive, even when new.
It could use some grease inside, but otherwise it’s still in remarkably good shape. This I probably could find a replacement for, but that replacement would probably have a rope just as old. Does anyone have any ideas how to get into this?

I guess, short term, I can just reattach the handle to the existing rope. I will only have lost about 6”, and it will get by for a little while at least.

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I found an exploded diagram of a newer version of the recoil starter unit. Yes. The only way that comes apart is to drive the axle out. Tried it. Busted the axle, as expected. I should be able to drill out the remainder of the axle and buy a new one for $2. Or maybe a new starter assembly for $20-$40. Not sure which way I want to go there. At least there are replacements available, though I am trusting that anything that looks similar will fit. The best I’ve ever been able to do for parts diagrams for this engine is “sort of similar”.
 
Now that I have it apart, it will be easy. There is a hole on the inside diameter where the rope winds. Just stick the rope in the hole, and push a staple into the rope.
The axle pin is serrated, but the serrations are only beveled one way. I think it’s designed to press together relatively easily and securely, but then the pin would be considered sacrificial and be drilled out if it ever had to come apart. $4 for a pin is better than $25-$60 for an entire assembly, but still….

They tried to push “design for manufacturability” on us back when I was in school. They didn’t spare a thought for “design for repairability”, though. I guess “they” didn’t have a limited budget like mine and have to keep beaters on the road to get around. What gets done always needs a way to get undone again.
 
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