Updates on new cub

[cst010]

Working through the issues on the cub. Carb had stripped main jet so replaced with Chinese carb from amazon--working ok at the moment. Plan to send the original to someone who can repair the main jet issue.

Not charging. Will need to troubleshoot.

Sediment bowl would not shut off so replaced. Once I replaced, could not get fuel to fill the bowl unless I loosened the bowl to where it leaked. This is with the gas cap off the gas tank. Gas tank is very clean, and it ran just fine with the old sediment bowl. Removed the bowl and replaced the rubber gasket with the cork gasket from the old sediment bowl. The tightness of the bowl on the cork gasket is finnicky; a little too tight and gas will not fill the bowl, a little too loose and bowl leaks gas.

Any ideas on why the new sediment bowl using the rubber gasket would not allow fuel to fill the bowl? I don't believe it is a vent issue since the gas cap is off the tractor.

Need to rework the fuel line. Has steel line in there now with compression ferrules. Not sure this is correct. Do know connecting the fuel line to the bowl and the carb is very tedious and somewhat irritating.

Changed oil and have low oil pressure--just a smidgen past the red. Not sure I trust the pressure gauge at this point. Do have Sea Foam in the oil to help loosen rings on cylinders 1 & 2 (both had low compression). Will run the tractor around the yard for the next couple of weeks, change oil/filter again and check.

Clutch, breaks, PTO work. Actually, did a little bit brush hogging. Hydraulics are another question. Slow and would not lift the mower. Draining and found some water contamination. Also seems low, hard to judge but looks like it drained maybe a quart--quart and half maybe? Will fill with Hytran but need to get an articulating funnel.

Needs tires and one rim. Tires hold air which is good enough for now.

 

[Don McCombs]

The steel fuel line with compression fittings is how the tractor came from the factory. Search on “polarizing generator”. That may be all you need to do to solve your charging issue.

 

[dgrapes59]

Well, you're making progress, congratulations!
I can't explain your fuel issues, unless something clogged the opening then moved through when you were messing with it
I can't see good in your picture, but it appears you have an original cap. There's a free safety cap available. I know that isn't causing your current issue, but would be good to have.

TM Tractor Parts for McCormick Farmall Cub, International Cub, and International Lo-Boy

Best of luck,
David

 

[staninlowerAL]

The steel fuel line with compression fittings is how the tractor came from the factory. Search on “polarizing generator”. That may be all you need to do to solve your charging issue.

And both the OEM carb and the shutoff valve/sediment bowl threads are 1/2 x 20 straight (bolt) threads. Using tapered pipe type threads will create problems. JMHO Stan

 

[cst010]

Well, you're making progress, congratulations!
I can't explain your fuel issues, unless something clogged the opening then moved through when you were messing with it
I can't see good in your picture, but it appears you have an original cap. There's a free safety cap available. I know that isn't causing your current issue, but would be good to have.

TM Tractor Parts for McCormick Farmall Cub, International Cub, and International Lo-Boy

Best of luck,
David

Send in my information already but as I recall went to an International (like International Tractor) site. Don't have the serial number so used a casting number. Will see if it works. Will go and register at the site you mentioned. Just checked, same site.

 

[DJ54]

Fuel not filling bowl means you have/had a very good seal. Loosen fuel line at carb and let the bowl fill. Once you get fuel flowing out of line, snug it up, you ought to be good.

If you're fortunate enough to have a starter rebuild shop near have them test the genny. More than likely the generator needs rebuilt, or the voltage regulator need polarized, or replaced. If it needs replaced, I highly recommend VR's made by Standard Motor Products. O'Reilly's Auto Parts sells them here, not sure what is in your area. Find the OEM part number for what you have, and cross it over.

I messaged SMP though their contact page about a year ago to find the proper VR for my TO 35 Ferguson and got a response back within 5-6 hours. Here is a link to their page: https://www.smpcorp.com/ Scroll down a bit to see "get in touch" in the gray bar.

 

[k hutchins]

As far as your low oil pressure goes, l'd be inclined to believe it's a guage issue. My original '48 was the same way. I replaced the original guage with a "numbered" guage just to get an idea of where l was at. The new guage showed 30 psi +-, right where it should be. I think the old guages either get gunked up or weak over time so they give false readings. If your guage moves at all when it's running l'd say you're probably ok. At least you know you have pressure.

 

[tst]

follow the steps to test charging system, one is for a system with regulator, other is for a system with cutout relay, relay type relay is bolted on top of generator

 

[cst010]

Thanks everyone for all the information. Very helpful!

 

[cst010]

Stated I drained the hydraulic fluid and didn't get much out. Didn't start the tractor and operate the lift a few times to drain the lines. Filled with hydraulic fluid and the lift worked but was erratic. Could not control the position of the mower. Pulled the drain plug again, this time running the engine/working lift and got about 2 quarts of milky white fluid. Still would only take about a quart and half. Operated the lift with the fill plug removed. Works better, seems position control is more stable. Will see how it works going forward.

Also noticed I have a leak from the cylinders (I think that is correct) that operate the lift. Are repair parts available and are they difficult to repair ( I have zero knowledge of how to fix those).

As an aside, anyone else have help in the shop when working on these machines? I have two TWC hounds who insist that they watch and make sure I do things correctly. Well as I went to pick up that pail before I ran the lift, one of those helpers decided they wanted to use their paws to see what was in the pail--the result was quite a mess on the garage floor (and me).

 

[cst010]

As far as your low oil pressure goes, l'd be inclined to believe it's a guage issue. My original '48 was the same way. I replaced the original guage with a "numbered" guage just to get an idea of where l was at. The new guage showed 30 psi +-, right where it should be. I think the old guages either get gunked up or weak over time so they give false readings. If your guage moves at all when it's running l'd say you're probably ok. At least you know you have pressure.

Ran that machine again today after changing the hydraulic fluid. This time on startup had almost max oil pressure with the engine at high idle. Dropped down to just under middle at low idle. Hoping it has corrected itself. Seem every bolt or screw I try to remove wants to snap and wasn't looking forward to figuring out how to repair this if the gauge snapped off the threads.

 

[offrink]

Your oil pressure sounds normal for a warm engine. With a fully heated engine and 10w30 my pressure on the gauge runs on the low end of normal.

 

[Glen]

Sediment bowl would not shut off so replaced. Once I replaced, could not get fuel to fill the bowl unless I loosened the bowl to where it leaked.

Hi,
When my Cub does that, after cleaning the gas strainer bowl, it's usually because the carburetor bowl is full of gas, and the needle valve is closed. Run the engine, and when the needle opens, the gas should fill the glass bowl, and the air go down to, and out of the carb.

The Cub Touch Control holds 3 1/2 Pints of fluid, when changing the fluid. That's less than 2 quarts.
It looks like the fluid is leaking from the Control Valve, a sort of common thing on Cubs.
It is on the front of the Touch Control, and moves when you move the lever.
The Control Valve has an o ring, and they leak when worn.
The o ring needs replacing to stop the leak.
The unit should be removed from the Cub to replace the o ring. There are many bolt heads on the bottom of the unit that hold the bottom cover on the unit. They fit into holes made in the clutch housing.
The leather cover at the Control Valve is called a dust boot.
If you want to only replace the Control Valve o ring, and not rebuild the whole unit, you don't have to remove the Touch Control head, which is on the rear of the unit.
It is less work to replace only the Control Valve o ring. The Control Valve slides out the front of the unit.
Below is a listing for the o ring at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the pictures, there is a picture of where it goes on the page. They have said on here the o ring is a special size. It is a Case IH part, it says.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

Feel the opening before putting the valve in to be sure it is smooth, any roughness can cut the new o ring. Sand off any roughness, wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
Use plenty of new Hy-Tran fluid on the valve when putting the new o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve back in the unit.

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts, showing the front of the Touch Control with the rockshaft off, the Control Valve is at the lower right in the pic.
The unit could also be leaking from the piston, which is above the Control Valve. It works the rockshaft. It has o rings too.
The Touch Control head has to be removed to replace the o rings on the piston.

 

[Glen]

Here is some Touch Control info.
Below is a page from a Cub operator's manual telling how to fill, or change the Touch Control fluid.
If the fluid is low, people on here have said it can have air bubbles in it, then it is better to drain it and change it. The drain plug is the small plug on the right side of the unit, at the bottom.
The filler plug is the large plug on the left side of the unit, near the top.
Always check the fluid level with the arms in the rear, or down position.
The fluid level should be to the filler plug hole, the manual says.
The fluid rises in the unit as the arms go to the rear. If you check it with the arms ahead, it will look low, even if it has the right amount.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmal... Tractor Operator's Manual 1-5-55/Page-67.jpg

Nowadays the system uses Case IH Hy-Tran fluid, it is sold at Case IH dealers. It is thin hydraulic fluid.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying it.
If you change the fluid, be sure to do what the manual page says in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel 10 - 12 times.
I sent you a message, you get to it near the top right of the page.

 

[cst010]

Hi,
When my Cub does that, after cleaning the gas strainer bowl, it's usually because the carburetor bowl is full of gas, and the needle valve is closed. Run the engine, and when the needle opens, the gas should fill the glass bowl, and the air go down to, and out of the carb.

The Cub Touch Control holds 3 1/2 Pints of fluid, when changing the fluid. That's less than 2 quarts.
It looks like the fluid is leaking from the Control Valve, a sort of common thing on Cubs.
It is on the front of the Touch Control, and moves when you move the lever.
The Control Valve has an o ring, and they leak when worn.
The o ring needs replacing to stop the leak.
The unit should be removed from the Cub to replace the o ring. There are many bolt heads on the bottom of the unit that hold the bottom cover on the unit. They fit into holes made in the clutch housing.
The leather cover at the Control Valve is called a dust boot.
If you want to only replace the Control Valve o ring, and not rebuild the whole unit, you don't have to remove the Touch Control head, which is on the rear of the unit.
It is less work to replace only the Control Valve o ring. The Control Valve slides out the front of the unit.
Below is a listing for the o ring at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the pictures, there is a picture of where it goes on the page. They have said on here the o ring is a special size. It is a Case IH part, it says.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

Feel the opening before putting the valve in to be sure it is smooth, any roughness can cut the new o ring. Sand off any roughness, wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
Use plenty of new Hy-Tran fluid on the valve when putting the new o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve back in the unit.

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts, showing the front of the Touch Control with the rockshaft off, the Control Valve is at the lower right in the pic.
The unit could also be leaking from the piston, which is above the Control Valve. It works the rockshaft. It has o rings too.
The Touch Control head has to be removed to replace the o rings on the piston.

Fantastic!! Thank you much for the information.