Transmission Rebuild

J

Jason_Coffey

Well-known member
If I wanted to get my cub transmission rebuilt, where should I go? I contacted a couple of tractor dealerships in my area and they said they could not do that type of work. SHould I be looking for a machine shop or a mechanic?
 
If it were mine and I lived in Broken Arrow I would wait until April and take it to the Okalahoma CubFest in Dewey. One of the guys there would probably be more than happy to show you how to repair it and you'll save a ton of bucks for other Cub stuff. Not only would you get the trans repaired, but you'll have a great time to boot.
 
What are the symptoms that are making you want to have it rebuilt? Noise? Leaks? If it is a matter of resealing it, that is a pretty straightforward job. Getting into the bearings, however is a very expensive proposition. If you are not concerned about originality, you can also seek a member of this forum who may have a newer transmission that is quite quiet for sale. This would be a FAR cheaper way to go, even with shipping costs for a tranny. The bearings are expensive and the procedure to replace them takes some "patience" and know how!

Thanks!

Mike
 
The guy I bought it from left it out in the elements for who knows how long. The transmission was full of water when I opened it up. Two of the lower gears have 2-3 teeth have rotted off. I still use it and it seems to work fine, but it makes loud ratcheting noises in reverse, first and second gear. This is the last thing I need to do to it, and I will be finished.

The cub fest sounds great. I will look around and get the info for it.

Thanks for all the information.
 
Keep in mind that if you buy a CC tranny to make sure that it is drilled for the PTO clutch shaft and other parts. You will have to flip the differential gear 180* or you will have 3 reverse speeds and one forward speed! :)

Otherwise, you will have to take all of the gears and bearings out of the CC tranny and transfer to your tranny and then do all of the calbrating all over again in the tranny. I personally opted for a 154 tranny which is quiet to go into my Lewis that I am rebuilding. This will bolt in directly without having to swap guts into my transmission. My numbers won't match any longer, but I am not going for a "concours" restoration on Lewis.

Good luck!!

Mike
 
I have not done a tranny rebuild before, but I am looking to do so on one of my working cubs. If I go with after-market seals and bearings, would the price be all that prohibitive? If I could get the seals and bearings for $150, I would be satisfied. I am just looking for a ball park figure.
 
I just rebuilt a tranny that had been rebuilt by someone that omitted some crutial parts. I had to replace every bearing many gears and the ring and pinion. cost a little over 300 bucks for all the bearings plus the seals and gaskets along with a few gears and a shifter. a cub cadet tranny looks the same on the outside but is a little different inside. a 154 tranny will work but will need the filler hole and fluid level plug drilled and tapped. very early versions had the plugs. I have seen a few 154 trannys in reg cubs. someone installed a fillerplug in the PTO plate.
 
Mike, the fill / level plug is on the rear cover on number series tractors. Since the trans. is also the hydraulic reservoir, they carry quite a bit more fluid, the plug is located much higher than on an F-Cub.
 
the only differences between a CC original transmission and a cub transmission are:

the top shaft rear bearing is a smaller needle bearing, but is the same shaft size as a cub, and will accept the cub top shaft
the ring gear is flipped.
second gear is one tooth different, but i don't remember which way.
three welch plugs need to be added to the front of the case, two for the shifter sliders and one larger one to keep the grease in.
you need to use the lower front shaft cover from the cub, as the cub cadet one has a hole in it.

that's it. the CC original transmission is a direct swap out with these changes.
 
Jason I have the parts you need to rebuild your tranny except for the seals. I will be glad to furnish them if you want to make it a project for the cubfest in april. If you can PM me or call I would be glad to stop by sometime and have a look at it. 918 440 8726 .
 
here is some more information that LeeC PM'ed me with. the alignment pins and the brake stationary mount being the most important. perhaps the part numbers will help someone out

1) Two 9/16-inch welch plugs (172528 or TR562 from TM Tractors) as mentioned
2) One 1-3/16 inch welch plug (172557 or TR588 from TM Tractors) as mentioned
3) A bushing needs to be added to the CC original transmission on the right side for the brake actuating toggle. The part is 358756R1, but I think it is NLA. I was unable to remove the bushing from my donor transmission. I used McMaster Carr 6391K152 - SAE 841 Bronze Sleeve Bearing, for 5/16" Shaft Diameter, 3/8" OD, 3/8" Length.
4) Four transmission case dowels (350799R1 or TR726 from TM Tractors)
5) One PTO adapter upper dowel (357215R1 or PT618 from TM Tractors) – assumes Cub Cadet Original does not have a PTO and the Cub does.
6) One PTO adapter lower dowel (258917R1 or PT619 from TM Tractors) – assumes Cub Cadet Original does not have a PTO and the Cub does.
7) One ST542 bearing (351539R1 or TR521 from TM Tractors). Either the Cadet ST541 main (top) shaft bearing is either missing a shield on one side or the Cub ST542 is missing the shield and should be replaced with the Cub ST542 bearing in my opinion.
8 ) One Transmission and Seal Kit from TM Tractors (TR2791) as it has the correct sized differential bearing retainer seals and other gaskets and seals necessary to swap Cub transmission parts over to the CC Original transmission.
 
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