Trailer drawbar question

MikeKing

Active member
Hi there,
I am looking at a small trailer for hauling firewood with my cub. The trailer I am looking at has a simple pin set up for hooking to a drawbar.
I'm wondering if this should work ok? I have the horseshoe drawbar to work with currently.
Appreciate your thoughts!
Pics attached, including pic of the trailer attached to another tractor.
 

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Drawbar pin with large washer on top of the trailer hitch. Under the drawbar a washer and something to keep the pin from coming out of the draw bar. That would work, not the best.

If I purchased the trailer I would shorten and reinforce the entire trailer tongue then add the U type hitch.

The trailer bed, axle, and tires appear to be substantial. The undercarriage of the trailer appears to be questionable in the bottom photo.
 
It looks like this just sits on top of the draw bar with a pin to drop through the draw bar? You’ll want something to keep the tongue from lifting off. Especially, because the trailer axle is forward of the middle of the trailer. Once you get a bit of load in the trailer, it’ll tip back and come off the tractor.

Better to add a plate to the top and bottom of the tongue, so the draw bar can go between, then drop the pin through all three.
 
I appreciate the feedback.
After your comments i'm kind of thinking I may just be better off getting a trailer with standard ball hitch.
With a standard drawbar it sounds like the ball hookup won't quite work due to size of holes.
Does anyone know if any aftermarket bolt down plate/ ball hitch units for sale anywhere? If anyone has such a unit to part with I'd be glad to consider it.
Thanks!
 
Eugene":1np5ahzw said:
What is with the trailer tongue? Is it a pipe slid over another pipe?

Looks like a square pipe welded to the bottom of the round pipe. I use a similar (roughly 3' X 4-1/2') garden trailer for moving firewood from my lean-to to my rack outside the front door of my house. Works great. Except mine has a sheetmetal tab with a hole a couple of inches above the tongue. This allows the tongue to slip over and under the drawbar with the pin going through all three holes.

Simply bolting this tongue to the drawbar will work, but puts the bolt in single-shear which may allow it to bend or break if towing a heavy load up or down a hill. I would either modify this trailer or buy another one.
 
Just use a grade 8 bolt double nutted with washers if going to use once in a while. You will end up adding parts and money when a bolt will work
 
How about bolting a piece of 1/2 or 3/4"stock to the draw bar that could slide into the square pipe and accept a pin through a hole in it.
 
MikeKing":24e69nd9 said:
I am looking at a small trailer for hauling firewood with my cub.
Before you purchase this trailer.

Check the height from the ground, the trailer side boards and deck. You want one that you can easily load and unload from the ground.
 
Cut a slot horizontally in the square tube back past the hole. Could do it with a hand hack saw. Take ten minutes. Or if you have access to a 4in. hand grinder that will do an excellent job for you. Walter
 
On the back of my Cub is a plate that is bolted to the draw bar. This plate is bolted in 2 of the holes in the center of the bar and has 2 outside holes. Originally it had a 3" ball in one hole and a 1 7/8" ball. I changed the 3" ball to a 2" ball.

If you change the attachment of the wagon to connect with a ball hitch your Cub should pull it easily. I attached my 1963 Mallard travel trailer to the 2" ball[in the center]. I can pull the trailer all around the property with my 1968 Cub Lo Boy. The trailer is much heaver than that wagon. It has a full birch interior, a table with 2 seats, a stove and furnace, 2 beds in a bunk set up and upper and lower cabinets. It has propane interior lighting, stove and furnace. I have it stocked with stuff to go camping. Your Cub should pull the trailer easily.

If you decide NOT to change the hitch to a ball or another type of hitch; use the method the other guy suggested and split the tube so you have an upper and lower flange. I have a low red trailer that you can find on line and in other farm stores that has an upper and lower flange. I put a pull pin in the hitch in a hole two spots off the plate with the ball hitches, on the draw bar. I use the pin and a cotter key in the lower pin hole which secures the pin and the hitch. I have hauled a lot of the smaller sections of wood [in my thread] with the red trailer. There are all types and sizes of pull pins available and cotter keys to secure it. I have a pull pin and key on the back of the Ford Edge that secures the reese hitch. I have a similar orange trailer at my house where I used to live. [I live with my mother and am her 24/7 caregiver....this is not my house where the other trailer is] This trailer I used the pull pin and cotter key that I currently use on the Edge with a 300 series John Deer riding lawn tractor. I hauled a lot of wood and things around my home uptown. I think if you can effectively use the trailer and the cost suits you …..it will work any way you decide to fasten it.

A side note to the draw bar. Since the plate with the hitches is on my draw bar bolted in place; I have had the need to "roll" my lawn this year several times. The roller tongue has a rusted pin in the hole as the draw peg. I drop the pin/peg on either side of the plate 2 holes over giving it room to swing. I have rolled the almost 2 acres of property here with the offset roller and the Cub Lo Boy. The Cubs are stiff tractors and can haul a lot. I have drug 2 larger logs with chains as well as large piles of branches with 3 chains all together pulled by the Cub [documented on my thread]. You should be fine with whatever you do.


Richard
 
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