Touch Control Overhaul

D

DaveM

New member
I'm in the middle of overhauling my touch control unit and have a few questions. Can anyone help me with them?

1. The Touch Control Manual doesn't show a picture of the control valve and O-rings. There was only one o-ring on it when it came apart and it appears there shold be 4. I going to have some extras left over from my rebuild kit if only one ring goes on, but I need some help in knowing for sure which one goes where?? The 4 that might work are 3 different sizes.

2. Is a Case/IH dealer the best place to get original color paint or is there a color I can ask for at an automotive paint shop?

3. The Touch Control Block had a cracked off front mounting ear (where it bolts to the tractor). The crack went up into the reservoir so fluid was leaking out. I brought it to a shop and had it brazed back on. They did a good job, but now I'm wondering how much stress it will be able to take when I go back to work. Is there anything I can do to help reduce the stress on it, should I avoid heavy pushing with the blade, or am I worried about nothing?

Spring's just around the corner, so it's time to get this project wrapped up! Any help you guys can give me would be appreciated.
 
It has been a while since I overhauled mine, but if I remember correctly, there is only the one. That is also what my parts book shows, for both early and late. I think the same overhaul kit is used on both ealry and late versiona of the touch control, so not all parts will be used.

The red paiint is IH2150, most places that sell paint can mix it for you.

Stress on your touch control housing is from lifting. Pushing with the blade provides stress aginst the torque tube where the blade braces bolt on, but not on the touch control unless raising the blade. Before you mount the housing make sure it sets evenly. It is cast iron, which doesn't have any give. If it doesn't set flat, it stands a good chance of breaking again.
 
John has dealt with all the questions very well. Only thing I can add is on the paint. Yup, IH 2150 Rouge Red. If you go to the Cub Manual Server and check under Paint and Other Finish ?'s, you will see the Paint Chart. That should provide you with some Paint Codes that you can take to your local Automotive Paint Shop.
 
Thanks for the quick reply guys!

One question though on the o-rings. The control valve shaft has a hole drilled through it's center that would allow fluid to flow between different "chambers" if O-rings were used to seal between the areas. It still looks to me like there should be at least 3 o-rings on the rod. Two to control and direct the fluid depending on the rod's position and a 3rd for an outside seal.

Any comments?
 
Like I said, my memory sometimes isn't the best. Maybe jim Hudson or George Willer will chime in, I think I remember both of them doing some touch control rebuilds rexently.
 
If my memory serves me the only hole in the control valve shaft is for a set screw to secure the linkage. I think there is supposed to be 2 (maybe 3, can't remember) "O" rings on the shaft.

I'm now tempted to go disassemble one of mine to make sure....... :idea: NAW :lol: :lol:
 
control%20valve.jpg
 
Well, I guess I can't argue with a picture like that! It definitely shows only one O-ring on the valve spool. Mine is the early type (my Cub's a 1950).

I'm still wondering about the reason for the drilled out shaft though. You can see in Jim's picture that there are three areas with a smaller diameter (actually 4, but I'm not counting the rear one). The two larger diameter areas between the three small ones have grooves cut in them that would be perfect for an o-ring. you can blow air through the hole in the first small diameter section and it comes out the hole in the third section.

There are allen screws in both ends of the shaft. The front end does hold the linkage parts like Donny said, but the back screw is just used to block the hole in the end of the shaft.
 
DaveM,

I did one last year on my '49.
The front left mounting ear had been repaired in the same manner yours has. The job was not the greatest though as it was still leaking by the gasket, I fixed that by filing down the rough finish of the braze job, applied a bit of silicone to the gasket and put it back together, no more leak all winter so far, and no problems either.

I'm soon going to overhaul a TC for my '67, hope it goes well.
 
I too will be starting a Touch COntrol rebuid in about two weeks. I have the old style. I have always read all I could find and realize the word for this is clean, clean, and clean. Aside from replacing the old parts with the ones in the kit, is there anything else that should be done during this time. I do suspect I should take a lot of notes and pic as to where all those parts go. Apprecieate any tips.

Dan Stuckey
Altoona, Pa
 
Hey guys:

This would be a great article for the Maintenance Tips and Techniques section. There is always questions ongoing about the Touch Control Rebuild and it would be nice if one of you guys who are going to do a complete rebuild would volunteer to take pics and write a narrative on what you all did in the rebuild.

I know a lot of Cubbers would really appreciate this immensely. Any takers????
 
Just put mine back togther yesterday. did not use but one o-ring on control valve. Only problem was that when putting bottom blate back on broke bolt off and some more did not feel good when torqueing to 35Ft. lbs.





one question that i had was, does the Piston sleeve boot go over the piston part or to the inside. this is where it was wheen I took it apart. :?:
 
On the old style, the boot went over a lip on the housing with a thin wire twisted around it to hold it there. The boot that is supplied now only goes over the knuckel on the shaft, which was apparently the way most of the newer style ones were made. If you want a boot that fits the way the original did, get one for a Super A or for a C.
 
cccub":1o698vko said:
Just put mine back togther yesterday. did not use but one o-ring on control valve. Only problem was that when putting bottom blate back on broke bolt off and some more did not feel good when torqueing to 35Ft. lbs.
Click to expand...

I know that's what the manual says, but 35 ft. lbs. is WAY too much for a 5/16" bolt! It must be a mis-print. I would expect something more like 13-17 ft. lbs. The connecting rods are also 5/16", but special high strength bolts and their torque is 16 ft. lbs.
 
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