Touch Control hydraulic pump o ring questions

J

Jeremy58Cub

Active member
Hello All, last night I finally got the new o rings for the hydraulic pump. It was leaking quite a bit. I took the tube off that connects to it and cleaned it up and replaced the o rings. I then got a little adventerous and pulled the pump out. I then went and got the new gasket and replaced it after cleaning it all up. I then seperated the two parts, but was pretty careful to get it all back together properly.

I bolted it all back on and added new HyTran until it started to seep out of the fill hole. I closed it back up and went on to change the tranny fluid and the engine oil and filter. Not sure when that had been done before! Regardless, it had been quite some time!

Anyway...... I then started it up and the oil pressure came right up and I let it idle a bit to warm up.

Here comes the question, I then moved the TC lever and nothing. Nada, zip, zilch.

What did I do wrong? I expected it to work a little and then I would add more fluid to top it off.

Any advice is appreciated very much!
 
If you have a pump oiler, rinse it out and fill it with whatever fluid you are using in your hydraulic system. Remove the lines from the pump to the touch control unit and fill them with fluid. Then replace and secure the line trying to lose as little fluid as possible. Once you have the line re-installed start the tractor up and cycle the touch control several times.
You might be able to loosen the lines at the touch control unit and fill them with fluid without removing them at the pump. I don't know, never tried to.
 
I've never had that problem, but probably will on one or both of the ones I hope to rebuild as soon as I can get back to the shop. If I have the problem the first thing I will do is remove the two allen head plugs in the top manifold and fill the lines with hyd fluid. May have to wait a little for the oil to work its' way down and the air to come out.

I may even have the problem with Bud... I recently added the system and haven't run him yet.

bud-carb-side.jpg
 
I think George has the correct procedure. Not messy either. Out of curiosity has anyone looked at the manual?
 
Jeremy, it may have to run a couple of minutew and operate the lever severla times before it works. If you by chance left it with weight on the hydrlaic you may have a valve stuck ( I made that mistake once and had to tear down the TC to get it going again). If you have an implemtn raised up on it, try putting a jack or womething under it to tkaethe weight off.
 
Hi John, I think that could be it! I did leave the plow up. I will get the jack out and take the weight off off it and try it again.

I don't want to have to take it all apart, but obviously I will if I have to.

Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Well, I removed just one of the allen head plugs in the manifold, because the lower one was difficult to get to due to the exhaust! So I tried it with just one and sure enough, a couple back and forths with the lever and a couple little bubbles came out and I saw a little movement. I did it a couple more times and then closed it up and topped the fluid level off with the Hy Tran and closed the system up and it worked great.

I will be rechecking the level after I use it a little bit.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I did use the jack to take the weight off the plow. I think it helped.

Have a great day!
 
Well the leak has returned. And after a little closer inspection, it appears that there is a leak on the manifold tube, down near the pump end. It is the upper tube and it appears that it had previously been repaired.

Is this just a welding situation? Weld it again and off we go?

Would this not be adviseable?

Ideally I would have a manifold tube that didn't have any holes in it, are they still available or am I on a hunt for a parts cub?

Merry Christmas!
 
Had same problem. Solution is to silver solder where the tube goes into the manifold. I sandblasted the old paint off at the joint and had a HVAC friend solder it for me. Repainted the bare metal, bolted it back to the pump, etc---bled the air out according to the manual and it works great.

Merry Christmas from NE Arkansas
 
Forgive my ignorance, but how is silver soldering different than regular plumbing soldering? I have done the latter, not the former.

HVAC? Not familliar with this either. I imagine it has something to do with welding/soldering professionally?

Help!

Thanks.
 
Thanks John, so is it something that I can do with a propane torch with the proper solder, or will it require more than that?

robably more if Brash recommended going to a HVAC person.......

Hmmmm. Well perhaps it will be easier to find a used one.

Anyone know what a used one might run me, or have one to sell me?

Thanks!
 
George Willer":1b8eh25f said:
HVAC = Heating, Ventilating, Air Conditioning in Ohio. :o
Click to expand...
That is what it always was to me too. acronymfinder.com lists it as most common along with the other and also with "High Voltage Alternating Current" A few more are even more obscure ones are in acronymattic.com.
 
Jeremy58Cub":w82psjno said:
Thanks John, so is it something that I can do with a propane torch with the proper solder, or will it require more than that?

robably more if Brash recommended going to a HVAC person.......

Hmmmm. Well perhaps it will be easier to find a used one.

Anyone know what a used one might run me, or have one to sell me?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

It will require more concentrated heat than you can get from a propane torch.

If you buy a replacement... send me the bad one. I have one that some nitwit tried to braze. :( Cleaning the brass off so it can be properly silver soldered will be difficult. This came with a "Cub in a box".
 
As I continue with this project a friend suggested getting MAPP gas with Oxygen at the hardware store. I guess it comes in cylinders similar to propane, but you need both. A set costs somewhere around $50.

Apparently this generates the proper high heat to silver solder this correctly.

Then I started thinking about a much more cost effective solution. JB Weld.

Anyone have any opinions as to why or why not to use it?

I do understand the premise of doing it right the first time, but right now money is very tight in our household. I could spend the 50 bucks, but spending 5 right now is very appealing!

Here's a picture of the offending manifold tube and previous "fix":

displayimage.php


Well, I can't figure out how to get the pic to load, if you have any hints, feel free to let me know. I tried several different things several times.

Here's the URL : http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?pos=-1242

Thanks!
 
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